I’m resting the pad on top of wood. Nothing strange happened, but in my fumbling attempts to test out the pad before wiring it to my hori stick I broke off the contacts for the A and Y buttons, but this happened after the RB got stuck. I was able to mitigate the issue with the Y button by soldering directly on the trace. And I decided to quickly cover the areas I soldered with glue to avoid any further issues like this. I don’t where to Solder for A now, but that’s another issue to troubleshoot. Anyways I’m more worried about the RB right now, here are pics of both sides of the board.
You look like your getting better at this.
I have a TE-S (PS3) that is dual modded with an Imp. I am fine with having two USB cables. Right now I only have the following xbone buttons connected to the TE’s PCB:
VCC
Ground
Guide
Dpad
The Guide button will illuminate when I press it, but it will not stay on. What is going on?
The TE-S Guide button? Is it not staying on on the Xbone, PS3 or both?
Do you happen to have a multimeter you can test with?
PS: You can solder A to the via (tiny hole) just below the contact pad that got ripped off. Just gently scrap it to reveal the shiny metal and solder to it.
Cheers! I underestimated how much of a difference the right tools make so after getting thinner wire, new iron and plently of flux things have been going much smoother 
The Xbone. I’m guessing the flashing means that the controller cannot sync or cannot detect the xbone, despite being plugged in via the micro-usb port. Pressing the Guide/Home button on the TE makes the Xbone led start to flash, so that alone should mean that the controller is properly grounded, right?
The stick still works fine on PS3 and 360.
If you have to press the home button to make the xbone pad turn on then I think you’re actually using it in wireless mode which would explain why it can’t sync if the signal is getting interrupted or if you have disabled the wifi by cutting trace/removing antenna
One of mine was doing that until I switched to a better usb cable. Now whenever I plug it in it automatically turns the pad on
So you still have to cut the antenna trace if you are only going to used it wired?
I’m using the same micro-usb cable that I was using on my stock xbone pad, but that is interesting that using a better cable fixed your issue.
They’re both ground so it wouldn’t make a difference would it?
No, cause even with wireless ability intact, it should’ve switched to wired when plugged in regardless of whether trace was cut or not. Its odd that your having the issue with the stock usb cable though cause when I was having the issue I was using a $2 cable from toys r us.
Maybe try a different usb port?
Also maybe try connecting it to another usb source (like a pc) then press the home button and see if it does the same thing. If it does then you know its cause its trying to go wireless for some reason (which it will attempt to do whether you cut trace or not)
I could borrow my fathers old analog multimeter, but I don’t really know how to test a pcb with it, sorry for my noobish ignorance.
wow a new cable did indeed fix it. now i just need a longer one than a 3 footer
You be checking for electrical current being able to go though. With a Digital Multimeter you can put the device on diode test and listen for the beeps. With a older analog tester, just test for resistance, you should see the needle move, more than likely with almost no resistance.
Disregard; I’m dumb.
I’m actually having the same problem on a pad that I’m doing right now where B and Y are shown as held down even though there are no bridges or anything. The buttons work fine in button config in KI3 and work normally in KI classic. Not sure what’s up.
Please excuse my ignorance,but how do I use this to fix the RB though. If it’s stuck on it means that a current is able to go through, right? Also does the pcb need to be plugged in and powered on when I test with the multimeter?
It means you have a permanent path from the RB pin to GND. You can verify this by putting the DMM into continuity mode (has a speaker symbol) and putting one probe on RB and touching the other probe to any of the GND points on the board. If it beeps you have a short to GND and you need to do some detective work to find out where the short is. Most likely place is the actual pins but anywhere along the signal trace all the way to the MCU is suspect as well.
And no, you don’t need it powered to do this, in fact you shouldn’t power it while doing this as you can damage the board in continuity mode by accidentally shorting pins through the probes. The only safe mode to probe when powered is Voltage mode*, just be sure you don’t roll through a Current mode getting there with the probes attached as that will short out stuff too. Good quality meters have a dedicated probe port for current mode so the above doesn’t happen.
*Current mode can be safe when powered (it’s actually necessary) if extra careful. Unlike voltage mode, current mode requires you to be inline with the circuit which means cutting a trace or wire and splicing in. You never should remove probes in current mode when powered.
with this picture in mind
http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p529/chaoticmonk/pcb.jpg~original
How off can i be in terms of the resistor i use for RT/LT? I dont think i have 2 100ohm resistors but i may have some close to that amount
“I’m laughing at the implications of a KI tourney scene. Games with a huge install base get killed by SFIV every year, and you guys think an xbone game will survive?”
I wrote this literally weeks ago, only to never post it because I felt it would drive you guys off topic and not support what is important, the padhack. So I’ve spent weeks just reading with that text in this stupid post box, AND NOW I SCAN THROUGH THE POSTS TO FIND YOU GUYS GOING ON ABOUT THIS TOPIC AGAIN?
Yeesh.
That said big props to all you guys who are levelling up your padhacking, esp cmonk, getting some clean shit done right (6 button style because 8 is dick).
Actually, you don’t want to connect directly to the hall sensor. Instead you want to connect to the bottom of the capacitors (either or both).
Some people then use resistors (RDC on acidforums mentioned 10ohm and through testing Grammaton determined the ideal is 330ohm. Some people don’t use any resistors and I don’t know what Gummo/Vicko do for their clients)
I’ve updated the image to show where you want to connect to.
lol cheers.
Hey guys,
Going for my first pad hack here. I’m going for a hitbox. I originally wired up all of the buttons to their contact points on the xb1 pad, minus the triggers for the time being, and have wired to the ground contact on the xb1 which chains through all of my buttons. I currently have the directions wired to their contact points and have the directions going through the ground chain as well, since that’s how I previously had my PS360+ wired up. Well, My first test failed because I was getting constant up and right inputs. Then I found out that I needed the resistors because I had desoldered the analog cubes off of the pcb. So I went and got the 10k resistors and soldered those on how they were supposed to be. I tested again and I was getting the same thing… constant up and right. Well, today I decided to desolder everything I did I try it all over again and figured maybe I screwed up the soldering because it was my first time doing it and it was a really terrible job. I’ve done a lot of research since then and I think I have it down now. Anyway, where I desoldered the resistors back off the of the analog cube spots… I pulled the contacts off. So I figured I would post this pic and I know I read earlier that you can find the tracing and scratch that off and solder to that… but I’m not entirely sure where that is or what exactly I should do.
Anyways, here’s a pic. You’ll see along the top is where they pulled off. Hopefully someone can help. Thanks ahead of time.