Haven’t asked for wireless yet, so no.
Could you create a small circuit diagram for this so I can add it to the new thread I’m compiling? Also, for my own edification, why is a 0.7v drop necessary to get LED’s to work?
Sure, I uploaded this a while ago just didn’t post it. It’s just real fast chicken scratch so please feel free to spruce it up in an actual spice schematic or something if you want.
Overall shows the overall image of what’s being attached, with MCU1 = XB1’s analog signal, we can consider it HI-Z since it’s just sampling input. MCU2 = other attached stuff, including any connected LED controller boards. Most of the boards we have around here are extremely simple with a pull up internal or external to VCC, usually 5v.
The second spot is basically what you’re looking at for the “other stuff,” the only thing missing is the line from the diode’s anode to the XB1 board. This just shows that the inline diode will stop anything from going the way we don’t want it to go, so if they have an LED board or anything connected the signal voltage won’t be affected by the stock circuit of the XB1. Note that if you were to hack the RT/LT signals to a pull up like your fix had, this probably wouldn’t be needed. Whatever the XB1 stock signal is doing, will no longer affect our attached circuitry… in CM’s case this would allow the signal to continue to be high enough to not trigger the Remora.
The voltage level is of no consequence for that, however, image 3 shows why standard 0.7v drop works for your own recommendations on draw limits. The loop current when pressing the button can be simplified into that, where the button/diode cathode node drops to 0v. If you calculate it via the peak that the dude on acidmods scoped out, the current draw maxes out at under 8mA, which is in your limit.
Basically it serves two fold, keeps the source from being stressed, and also isolates it to avoid problems.
The last image is simply what it could be looked at steady state when nothing is pressed.
Here’s how I’ve been connecting them, with some variations depending on what I’m installing into. Did this on all the mods this weekend at Frosty Foustings and all came out great.
Since I didn’t want to just do an on the fly test of removing C62 to remove the final filter cap for the antenna, I ended up cutting the trace on the one stick that didn’t have a turbo to attach the XB1’s home signal to. All the others I just kept it simple.
Ok, just got done padhacking a new board and I really hope I didn’t mess this up lol.
I connected wire to the bottom of the RC filter then connected that to the anode end of a diode (opposite the banded side) then connected a 330ohm resistor to the cathode side (banded) but when I touch ground to the other end of the resistor nothing happens (when I couch ground to the RC filter the triggers activate).
If it helps shed any light, diode package says 5.1V Zener Diode and on the back it says…
Voltage (Vz) = 5.1V
Current (Iz) = 49mA
Max power dissipation = 1.0W
I can post pics if needed. I ended up leaving this as the last step in my stick overhaul so once this is done I’m golden!
EDIT: when I touch ground to the other end of the diode the triggers activate so I assume I messed up with the resistor portion cause I probably misunderstood something.
If someone could clarify whether I should be using a resistor or not when connected to RC filter and if so what resistance, that would be brill 
Hmm, you don’t want to use a Zener, you want to use a schottky or standard small signal diode. Radio shack has basic ones. The zener might give you problems.
If you use the standard diode, you can leave out the extra resistor, just one end to the RC > + diode - > button signal.
In some cases you can use a zener like a standard diode though. It should still tell you what the forward voltage is (fV is usually the label). Should be between 0.3v and 1v.
I don’t think in this case a Zener will play nicely though with how the XB1’s triggers work, might want to just take a ride and grab the normal ones.
Went there but they didn’t have any that said Standard or Schottky 
I did end up getting 3 in the hope that one of them was right so please let me know
One says Switching Diode which has the same look as the Zener (orange with a black band) but theres no info in the back of the pack that lists the details (its completely blank)
Other ones are Rectifier Diodes which had a pack inverse voltage of 1k (seems like a lot) and a forward voltage and current of 1.1v and 1.5A respectively
The last one I got was an assorted pack of rectifier diodes in case rectifier does the trick but the one above was the wrong ‘size’
Really hope one of these is right cause thats all they get (zener, rectifier and switching)
EDIT: searching for the part number on the switching diodes package lead me to this PDF which lists the forward voltage as max 1v so I think I’m good? 
All three will probably work but the one meant for this type of application is the “switching” diode.
Although all diodes rectify, the ones with the name “rectifier” are meant to handle large amounts of power as can be seen by the 1000V reverse breakdown voltage and the 1.5A ratings.
The switching diodes are for signaling applications and have very fast reaction time but don’t tolerate much power.
Zener diodes are actually meant to be used in reverse (i.e the band aka cathode is pointing toward the more positive voltage) and take advantage of very specific reverse breakdown voltages (5.1v in your case) and act as a type of voltage regulator. As Phreak said, you can use a zener in the forward configuration and it will probably still work even though that’s not the application it’s meant for. But since you have the switching diodes, might as well use the right ones.
Thanks guys, switching diodes did the trick and now I feel like I know a bit more about diodes
Update:
Padhack complete and all inputs tested fine (all the wires go through the sleeve to a 15pin connector). This time I also only scraped half the contacts and didn’t put glue directly on them to try and avoid lifting them
http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p529/chaoticmonk/xb1v21.jpg~original
I was also getting good vibes from under the work table lol
Clayton you put diodes on the 360 board AND the terminal strip?
No, it’s an either/or thing, it just depends on what I’m working with and how it will work out. Some setups it easier one way, PS3 TEs for example it’s just simpler to use the terminal block, 360 TEs can go either way depending on your mood and how it’s wiring up.
I just showed the 2 as examples of where I have done it previously but overall I’ve done it more to the terminal block directly. The exception being the first couple of 360 TEs I did.
@ChaoticMonk that cat is super adorable, mine tend to hinder my progress on things.
Yeah my wording on the diodes was F tier, sorry about that lol.
Thanks, makes perfect sense if your downstream circuits have a pullup resistor to a higher voltage. One correction to your diagram is that 1.45v is the peak if the pad is in the controller shell, however if the pad is out of the controller the peak will be 1.65, i.e. Vcc/2 where Vcc is 3.3v. The reason why it’s lower in the shell is because the shell holds the magnet close enough for the sensor to detect the magnetic flux and drop the voltage by 200mV. This still keeps you just under 10mA (9.5mA to be exact) but 10mA was just a guestimate, I saw liner hall sensors that had 3mA and 5mA output current limits as well. If you get complaints that people’s triggers are starting to fail then the quick and easy fix is to put two diodes inline so that there is a 1.4v drop so there is only a 2.5mA demand on the sensor which is within any limit I could find.
Awesome, glad to see you got everything sorted out. I’m interested in that 15pin connector, did you make that harness yourself or pick it up? How does the 15pin connector hook up to the other PCBs?
Also, update on the Wireless front. I have good news, more good news and then bad news. The first good news is that the spare bottom board I kept still worked. The second good news is that I was able to successfully remove the floating wifi board by scoring the soldered edges with a sharp packing knife. The bad news is the board no longer worked once I did this. I will note that I may have inadvertently cut a trace or two by accident in the process of removing the island. MS runs a lot of tiny traces under this board and the side of the board facing the MCU has a number of these tiny guys running right next to the solder points. It’s quite possible this solution may have worked had I been a bit more careful but it was a force trip and not worth potentially killing the board like I did. My recommendation is still to cut the antenna trace as close to the solder point as possible and call it a day.
I did it myself. The wires from the pad are just soldered to the 15pin.
The stock hori pcb has another set of wires that connect to the female 15pin then I just connect the two together.
Although the xbone is working (when I touch ground to the pins), my stick is still no good cause when it’s all hooked up xbone registers a bunch of random presses and remora has all the lights constantly on.
When I connect to pc and flip switch to Cerberus/hori my pc says USB device is malfunctioning
I even tried hooking up a separate USB cable to Cerberus (nothing else connected) and got the same issue then tried hori by itself and same issue so it’s back to the drawing board.
Ill do some more testing later. If I’m still stuck ill start a new thread since the xb1 pad is fine and I don’t want to go off topic
@chaoticmonk do you have a multimeter? you may want to do a thorough check and make sure you’re not grounding inputs
I do and I did but didn’t find any. It seems like I may have killed the cerberus and/or stock pcb…no clue how though.
More info here XB1 Padhack+Cerberus+Remora+360 Hori SCV giving me a headache. Need assistance plz
I was trying to think of a solution to play KI on my PC monitor (the XBOX One is in the room with the TV) with my fightstick. I have a long HDMI which works for gamepad games. I’m looking into USB extensions, but the spec only supports about 15ft.
Then I realized I can just plug my stick into an iPhone charger and press the Home button, and boom I’m playing wirelessly.
Yeah, I think that alone might make it an issue for tournaments eventually.
Well hopefully Xbone at tourneys are a long time aways still.
Well need at least 1 major tournament (Like Evo or God’s Garden) to start adopting Xbone hardware.
Evo just now stated they are supporting (god only knows why) Xbox 360.
I right now still don’t see the Xbone console as a viable choice for tournaments, especially with the lack of 3rd party controller selection and the kinect requirements.
Funny, that’s exactly how I was incrementally testing my pad hack as the TV is far enough away from where I was doing the modding that I didn’t want to have to get up all the time. It works like a charm and although not as portable as battery power, is still pretty damn mobile.
So if these controllers are banned what are people that paid for the service gonna say?
Its part of the risk of being a early adopter