I highly doubt TO’s will ban xb1 padhack sticks. If we follow the no wireless rule for KI then the ONLY acceptable input device would be the TE2. With the distribution problem with the TE2 and not everyone having one this would hurt the KI tourny scene unless the TO supply the TE2 for each setup.
Yea but it takes only one dumbass’s mistake(or really smart madcatz employee lol) to make them think about banning them.
I think you’re just not doing it right if the wireless still works. I’ve done it on 2 sticks and it’s flawless.
Will these work for LT/RT, or do they have to be pull-Up resistors?
http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160239w345.jpg
The word ‘pullup’ is an adjective to describe a resistor with one side connected to a power supply. The resistor “pulls up” the line voltage to the power supply when the button is not being pressed.
In any case 1/2W is way too big for this application. These much smaller 1/8W resistors are more than sufficient.
Wouldn’t it be fairly simple to test each stick for that at a tourney?
Ive been trying to pad hack for quite some time now but I cant seem to get time or the opportunity to do so. Is there anyone in NC that can do it for me. I’ll supply the stick and the pcb.
I know theres the golden rule but if an xb1 padhack is using a separate usb cable and is connected directly to all the bottons/stick then why would the other board need power+gnd too? wouldn’t they pretty much be isolated?
Cmonk: If you don’t connect both power+ground lines, the board not powered will sink all current from the inputs. The other board would then see 0V for all inputs and report that all buttons are pressed.
If the board is truly floating there would be no path for the unpowered board to sink anything. The problem with floating boards is quite the opposite. As current flows into a floating node, charge would build up at that point and the voltage at that node would increase. Eventually it would increase to a point where there was no voltage difference between the floating node and the other connected node(s). With no differential in voltage, current would no longer flow and you will get very odd, random behavior.
To prevent charge buildup you could just connect the GND pin and that would indeed solve the issue of charge buildup. However, depending on the board you may be now loading down the button signal because you gave it a path to ground but no Vcc to pull that voltage up to it’s nominal level. In that case, rather than the line being 3.3v with no button press it will instead be at something lower like 1v - 1.6v and that may be low enough to make the MCUs believe the button is always pressed. The “golden rule” will definitely never lead you astray but sometimes it may cause you to wire up Vcc where its not needed. A perfect example of that would be the control panel PCB if you don’t care about the LEDs lighting up. That board only needs GND (and KGND if you want the on/off switch to work.) I would say the “silver rule” is to always hook up power & ground to boards that have IC’s, especially if it has a MCU.
Huge thanks for this. I was able to recover RT on the pad that I had previously wrecked thanks to this post and now have two fully functioning padhacks. Huge contribution.
The sad thing is that I have an Electrical Engineering degree and still haven’t attempted to figure any of this out myself 
THANK YOU SIR, EVERYTHING IS WORKING FLAWLESSLY NOW. YOU ARE THE CHIZ…
Awesome, that’s 2 out of 2 so far, glad to have contributed something useful other than just equations 
To that end, I think there has been enough additional information to warrant a new thread where the first post is a compilation of everything we know. Having people figure out they need to go back to page 8 for something like this doesn’t seem right. Any objections if I start a new one? ChaosMonk, are you OK if I repost your pics?
The interesting thing is that I haven’t applied my EE knowledge in about 3 years and this whole pad thing just clicked. There is plenty in the field of EE that I would defer to somebody else (like electromagnetics…ugh) but feel free to ask any technical questions as they come up.
Go for it. I don’t think Op is around anymore so don’t expect first post to get fixed.
Didn’t you have something to share regarding connecting the xb1 guide LED?
@Vicko & @Gummo are you guys connecting sync in your padhacks? if so, why if the wired pad = auto sync (I assume)?
I don’t wire up sync unless someone wanted a wireless setup.
Anyone have any tips on how I would go about doing this on my 360 VS that has a TE kitty and Remora in it?
Question, I’m connecting the xbone pad to the stock hori pcb which in turn is connected to remora. Do I want to introduce the diode between xbone and hori or between hori and remora?
Between the XB1 pad and the hori PCB, basically as long as you put it inline with the XB1 signal since that’s the one you want to give the isolation and voltage drop to.
See my post last page: