I wouldn’t bother getting another pad, just troubleshoot what you have. Take a multimeter and touch all of your signals to ground and if they show connected then you have something grounded by mistake. Do the same thing with all VCC points to each other, all GND points to each other, and make sure nothing is touching another wire that it shouldn’t be. Also if you have an IMPv2 that would be easier than using a switch.
Thanks Vicko. Gonna do more testing on it.
I ended up putting it in a empty shell hoping that it’ll do better by itself but the same symptoms persist (‘back’ keeps triggering randomly and after 20mins of play it ends up holding right with the occasional split second stops before it starts holding right again).
While checking the connections to the analog spots I realized I lifted the pad at #10 clean off which would make sense since that would be the one that would determine anolog right direction (I think).
I then remembered that #10 is ground so I instead connected it to #11 but still ran into the same issue.
Gonna keep at it though! KI is too much fun to give up 
I just want to throw my 2 cents in and say I bought a cronusmax, now I know everyone her seems to hate on them but in fairness this thing seems to work. No noticeable lag, no missed inputs. It’s not 100% perfect I would say but then neither is a pad hack right? Just look through and see the amount of people having problems with multiple inputs, constant inputs etc.
If anyone has any questions about it feel free to ask. I’m not going to do any hardcore testing or anything. I would say this is a viable choice for the time being for certain people (mainly non tournament goers). It’s cheap, let’s me use keyboard and mouse for fps games and I can use any controller with it. Win/win.
Glad you like it, but you should probably take your discussion to the Cronus thread. This one is literally just for discussing xbox one padhacking.
Both points are connected directly, so it doesn’t matter if you solder your wire to both. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong about that.
220 ohm should be fine for RT and LT. I’m using 330 ohm and it works fine.
Also, if I were you I’d leave the analog sticks on and glue them in place. It really isn’t worth the hassle and potential solder issues to remove them unless you’re really confident in your ability.
If you’re not going to do hardcore testing then you shouldn’t be in tech talk.
turns out my analog activating right was due to a bad resistor (I changed them out and played for 2 hrs without it going off).
Now, to figure out the constant shorting of ‘back’
Problems with padhacks are because people are messing up, not lag.
Gummo has probably modded like 100 xb1 pads and doesnt seem to have problems.
Just because you cant tell it lags doesn’t mean that it doesn’t. You need to do extensive testing preferably with someone on another controller plugged in so you can see if it causes weird happenings.
However, all converters suck, this is fact.
I almost saved b15’s padhack to my /fap/ dir, that shit is TIIIIIIIIGHT. Also pad hacks (when done right) are flawless, there’s no difference between a pad hack and an official stick.
It has been said earlier in the thread that this is the place for people who are putting in the work to have their curent gen stick work via padhack. For those wanting to go cronus they can search and find that thread. Padhacks work fine. I had absolutely no experience padhacking or soldering and my mod turned out fine.
How do you get the triggers working? I have a ps3 soul calibur V fightstick, & I got everything working except LT & RT. I’ve tried 2 different points for both triggers & 2 different resistors (100ohm & 10ohm) but nothing seems to work.
Could you take a pic of where you soldered to for the triggers? Thanks Gummo!
Btw, CJ & FChamp shouted you out on FGTV yesterday.
Something to look out for if you are modding a Qanba with a xb1 pad, but only pertains to certain models. It deals with the qanba’s that have the dual layer pcb that has the lil 360 pcb on top of the main pcb. You’'ll need to keep the switch to PS3 mode when playing on xbox one or the triggers won’t work.
A padhack is 100% right because we are using official pads. The people who have had problems are the ones who are LEARNING and several of us are helping because it is not an easy padhack IMO (despite others in this thread saying otherwise). The ones who have done the job correctly are not having issues. Here in this thread you are seeing ground be broken. No one else is doing this kind of shit. Your intentions are good, but it comes off as ignorant since you don’t know what you’re talking about.
There has never been an example of a tested lagless adapter. Every experienced modder will verify this. I’ll bet there is lag on it and you can’t tell the difference, just like those who say their monitors are lagless without any proof via test.
Sorry if I seem rough, you could have had a bad day. I will quote @Vicko from page 13-
If you have any questions for us, we are more than happy to help.
Are you doing an individual stick mod? If so you don’t need resisters and the triggers work fine as long as your solder points are correct.
Resisters are for those doing multimods.
Go to the acidmods link I posted a day or so ago with the PCB scans, the solder points for the triggers are color coded on there.
Speaking of which, I stopped by Frys today on the off chance they had a TE2 (they did) and while I was there I picked up a 1K trim pot and I’m going to nail down just what series resistance we should be using for the triggers.
On a separate note I wired my new board using 30AWG wire-wrap wire to the mezzanine header pins, it actually wasn’t too hard with this wire and the fine chisel tip I picked for my iron. I wired up all buttons sans the triggers (gonna do that tonight after I figure out proper resistance) and everything works flawlessly in-game but I STILL have that stupid issue where the A-button is registered by the home screen but not honored. I unplugged every single button but ‘A’ on the stick and it still does it. I’m inclined to unsolder the pins one-by-one on the pad just to find out WTF is going on. It baffles me that this issue still persists with a new pad and new wiring locations.
Remember, its not your A, its your ‘back’ aka view button. I’m currently having the same issue.
Your back button is being pressed repeatedly which causes the tile menus not to register A (unless you mash on it and one of your presses occures in between one of the ‘back’ shorts)
I had this issue when I had LB soldered to ground due to a bad picture. I fixed it and all was well.
I guess I need to do a continuity test on each of my button wires and make sure none of them are pulled to ground. It must be a button that is not one of the ones KI maps to punches or kicks because in-game is fine.
That theory has changed in the last few days as I’ve done quite a bit of research (and simulation) with hall sensors. Tying straight to the sensor pin is now a no-no (even with a series resistor), and now the best place to tie is on the MCU-faceing side of the RC filter but even that’s not enough. You’ll still need a series resistor to limit the current and right now we have a datapoint that 330ohm works fine so I recommend that for now.
guys, ignore the hall sensors and use the alternative spots as outlined on the acid forums
even with the hall sensor and the 100ohm i don’t know what the problem was; mine worked fine