I had that issue when my RT was constantly pressed as well. I bought a second pad and replaced the second PCB and now I don’t have that issue anymore.
Yes, & I have them wired right to the resistor above the trigger contact pad.
When you say “alternative spots”, you’re referring to the small resistor & cap pair that look like [ ][ ], right? If so, you still need a resistor when you tie to the common point between them. Unlike the D+/D- USB lines, the inline resistor for the triggers are not to get it to work (it WILL work without them), rather it’s to minimize the stress put on the sensor so it doesn’t die a premature death. Without knowing the exact part number MS uses I can’t say for sure what the absolute maximum current the sensor can source before you are operating out of spec but from the datasheets I found on Mouser & Digikey, it looks like 10mA is a common value. If you tie to the resistor/cap pair you’re asking it to source 16.5mA and it will do it but not happily. You do it enough times and you’ll get a premature failure; basically a death of 1000 stings type of deal. Putting in a 330ohm resistor will only ask the sensor to source 3.8mA while still working and that much current should be well within spec.
What would be amazing is if a mod can add all the final/confirmed diagrams and techniques to the first post for future easy reference.
Did you try remapping the buttons in KI to double check them? It really sounds like the problem we had where a button was constantly pressing.
If your able to get taunt mapped to ‘back’ button you’ll notice your character taunt repeatedly
Having some issues when adding the X box one pad to my ps360 (not the plus. The older version)
Not all buttons seem to work. Only rb which for some reason the lb is switched to rb as well when playing KI.
Home and start work. But select don’t.
All other buttons don’t work. A x, y, b.
All directions do work.
When playing on ps3 and 360 everything works fine. Just this issue on X box one.
The weird thing is I too the wires our of the terminal and the buttons started to work. Only when under the terminal strip on the ps360 that those specific buttons to work.
Any ideas?
How did you connect the xbone to ps360?
Are you still using two usb cables? if so, did you connect ground and VCC from xbone to ps360?
As for LB and RB, just switch the cables around at the terminals/buttons to where you want them.
Yes VCC and ground connected. I don’t think it would power on without it
Basically. The Xbox one wires are going to the termnials of the ps360 pcb. Then a second wire that’s twisted with the xbox 1 wires, comes out of the terminals and into the buttons of my stick.
I switch between usb from ps360 and xbox one.
I might just connect the wires at
The buttons disconnects. And not bother putting together under the ps360 pcb. Since I don’t plan on adding a impv2 yet
Speaking of imps. How exactly do you guys wire the pcbs to it?
Can I have my ps360 stand alone connected to my buttons and stick on its own with xbox one connected to the buttons and stick as well at the quixk disconnects of the buttons.
And then have a usb connected to the ps360 and cut off the other end and solder to the imp. And have the xbox 1 micro connected and in the other end cut off and solder to the imp as well. With one of the usb blocks on it for the 1 usb wire to be connected to the system.
I don’t want to be one of those Cronus Haters (I trying to be non-bias and sticking to the facts here).
But you need to get out of here with that garbage talk about “any converter” in a pad hacking thread.
It is off topic. This thread is just for the hacking of the Xbox One game pad PCB, now if another company produced a 3rd party game pad and you want to offer that PCB as a alternative PCB you would have been fine.
Facts are as such:
- Native PCBs/ Controllers will always function better than a Adapter. (this is not even SRK TT Logic, this is Text Book IT/PC repair logic).
- The MS Xbox One PCB is not a easy pad to hack, alot of the more inexperienced moders are suffering difficulties or malfunctions due to improper modifications (mostly poor soldering skills).
- Adapters all lag, even if the amount is trivial. This is really important in any comapative gaming scene.
- The cronus is suspected of interference with the other non-cronus-using player and is banned at a number of tournaments.
- The new Macro abilities in the CronusMax is hurting its credibility in the FGC despite any performance (good or bad). It also does not help the credibility that the Cronus launched a new website just for the Cronus Max, which is not linked to the original site. Much of the links on the original site does not work. Likely as a measure to stay one step ahead of Mcirosoft’s and Sony’s lawyers.
- You still require the use of a Xbox one game pad with the Cronus, so why spend a extra $60 when you need the Xbox one pad anyways.
- Your more likely void your warranty with a Cronus over just pad hacking the existing Xbox One game pad. That is assuming MS found out you used a Cronus Device.
Also seeing as the cronus is not a “Microsoft Verified” product. No telling how long before an update may be made that renders cronus useless.
Hey guys I’m back with some new problems lol.
I had an issue where the home button would press randomly but everything else worked perfectly. Now after fixing the home button problem I must have been too rough with the wires and some directions and buttons started to not work randomly. I fixed some directions/buttons with no issues but I think I scraped too much off the Y button or something because I can’t get it to work anymore.
I read somewhere else in this thread that you can just trace the line to a new connection point IIRC. Would anyone be able to point out an alternate place to solder my Y button on the CB? I think I know where to do it but I want to be sure.
Go here (http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=43204.0) and look at the traces on the PCBs. Anywhere you see solid yellow line (not yellow with black in the middle) you can connect to.
I had the padhack done and working properly, but my triggers were on the hall sensors. Instead of calling it a day I went back and put them on the resister/capacitor area instead and lifted the black one (resister I assume). Somehow I managed to put it back on but I’m still consistently getting an RT press as if it’s shorted to ground. When I did a continuity test on the end of it and to ground, there is no connection between the two. I’m not posting a photo because there is no wire soldered now and I don’t have a camera good enough.
So my question now is:
- Can I disable the trigger completely and just not use it?
- How would I go about doing this? Couldn’t I essentially just cut the trace?
Anyone who says this is an easy padhack can go to hell. Triggers make it difficult.
EDIT1-
I somehow managed to get the resister back in place (even though it’s smaller than a pen tip) but when touching the bottom of the resister/capacitor combo with ground I don’t get a signal. Not sure what I did, but I’m calling it fucked and leaving the triggers as is and just doing a 6 button. From now on any mods I do for customers on this pad is 6 button unless we confirm soldering to the trigger hall sensors is 100% legitimate. Too much pain in the ass for me to validate losing an entire pad over it.
So a quick followup on the whole IMP/Q4RAF issue.
I asked Phreak on twitter about what options there were with Q4RAF on D1 and XB1 on D2, so I switched XB1 to D1 and Q4RAF to D2, no resolution, also tried switching control buttons, still no resolve. I would find it hard to believe that it was a bad IMP since it was two different IMPs on two different Q4RAF. So I just used a DPDT switch for Data Lines and now everything works.
Has anyone had success using an IMP on a QANBA Q4RAF?
Just to double check, you guys are soldering jumpers A and C when using the IMPv2, right?
I’ve noticed if the trace going to the signal pin on the sensor is cut then the trigger will be seen as held down.
Question, couldn’t you just connect to the hall sensor but use a larger resistor to compensate for not connecting to the RC filter?
I did it that way because i wanted it to fit in the back (bottom) of the te so that it wouldn’t touch the metal plate.
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131221_124902.jpg
As i mentioned earlier i wasn’t finished with it, so i added some electrical tape to prevent anything from shorting out:
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131221_105009.jpg
Also cleaned up the wiring a little bit more:
http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131221_105452.jpg
Lastly i removed the antenna, and cut the wireless trace. I tested out the stick and everything worked perfectly. There were no issues at all. A big thank you to everyone that has helped make this possible. Now lets get a PS4 padhack thread going plp lol