Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

[Phase_ONE]

edit- found my answer

[Phreakazoid]

Nice job Grammaton, I’ll put up some added info later on that could also help if people are putting this into dual mods/multiboard systems like ChatoicMonk is doing. It takes into account what you just stated, but also adds in the isolation factor that Gummo and I have been doing.

One thing we haven’t addressed and should be cognizant of is that the USB host (the game console) can only provide a max of 2.25W of power. I’m not sure what the power draw is of each of these boards but when you start to get into the 3 or 4 boards being powered I would start to get concerned. A powered USB hub may be necessary at some point.

The XB1 pad says it draws up to 481mA I think, but the old pads were the same and even at maximum output I can’t imagine it really adding more than 60-80mA in a setup, maximum when powered from USB.

Most of these setups draw sub 100mA, with the exception being the LED setups, so overall the draw itself usually isn’t a problem even in multi-board installs. I should probably figure out how much the pads actually draw at some point.

[GrammatonKlerik]

Just done a couple of xbone pad hacks and wired them up with stock xbox 360 pcbs found in the Madcatz fight stick pros.

That looks real nice and clean, now I’m even more pissed I dremeled out my plastic for that dumb battery pack. I’d be interested in seeing how you spliced onto the other boards. Was this a dual mod?

[GrammatonKlerik]

I used 330 ohm because I didn’t have 100s handy. At least in KI, it works just fine.

If that 330 is after the filter that’s pretty awesome news because it means you only need to pull the line down to 1.27V to get a hit. At that level we are only pulling 3.8mA from the sensor putting it well into its normal operating range. Maybe I’ll stop by Frys and get a trim pot to see how close to the edge 330 is.

Nice job Grammaton, I’ll put up some added info later on that could also help if people are putting this into dual mods/multiboard systems like ChatoicMonk is doing. It takes into account what you just stated, but also adds in the isolation factor that Gummo and I have been doing.

I would be very interested on what you guys are working on to isolate because the only way I can see to truly isolate the sensor is to cut the trace leading to the RC filter (or maybe between two vias) and put some components inline, like an optocoupler. Even that wouldn’t be true isolation because both sides of the coupler would share the same ground.

Originally I was playing with using a high-speed diode set to be forward biased when you pull the trigger so you get that constant 0.7V drop but I later switched to a simple resistor because it buys you the same thing (a voltage drop) but is more flexible. Anyway, I look forward to see what you guys are doing.

[GrammatonKlerik]

The XB1 pad says it draws up to 481mA I think, but the old pads were the same and even at maximum output I can’t imagine it really adding more than 60-80mA in a setup, maximum when powered from USB.

Most of these setups draw sub 100mA, with the exception being the LED setups, so overall the draw itself usually isn’t a problem even in multi-board installs. I should probably figure out how much the pads actually draw at some point.

That would actually be no bueno as the USB standard also has a limit on max current a device can draw. By default it’s 100ma but the device can negotiate with the host to allow 500mA. If the pad is pulling 480mA, that only leaves 20mA for everything else before it is technically overdriving. The XB1 might not shut down the port exactly at 500mA but the spec says it could if it wanted to.

[JMro]

If that 330 is after the filter that’s pretty awesome news because it means you only need to pull the line down to 1.27V to get a hit. At that level we are only pulling 3.8mA from the sensor putting it well into its normal operating range. Maybe I’ll stop by Frys and get a trim pot to see how close to the edge 330 is.

Yes, after filter

[gahrling]

Maybe on the next (if any) setups I will be a little braver and try to use Toodles IMPv2 board aswell as I still have a load of them lying around.

Dude, if it helps then I can confirm this as working. My latest mod had a 360 TE pcb & Cerberus board going to one IMP channel, and the Xbone going to the other IMP channel.

It’s so much cleaner having everything travel through a single USB cable.

[ChaoticMonk]

So I tried running VCC and GND from one usb cable to cerberus as well as xb1, no luck
tried connecting ground to a screw, no luck
so then I disconnected everything and pulled the xb1 pad out and plugged it in by itself and its working fine again so I’m guessing its something to do with how I have everything hooked up in my case.

I’m gonna just throw it in a brawlstick by itself for now and see how that goes.

[Jhino3384]

ok guys so here’s what i got. Please keep in mind that i’m not done yet and it has been a few years since iv’e done a mod. Basically i want to dual mod the xbone pcb to a R1 TE.

I soldered the buttons to the bottom of the te terminal:

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131218_212322.jpg

I also soldered the joystick directions, vcc, grnd, the home button (turbo) and i have the d+/d- going to the dpdt switch:

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131218_212046.jpg

Here is the xbone pcb with the d-/d+ lines go to the switch:

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131218_235438.jpg

I decided to use a dpdt switch and followed one of the diagrams posted earlier, but i had to splice some of the wires to make them reach. Yes i improvised and glued it to the case, and yes i did use an old soldering iron to melt the plastic to make a whole for it on the other side:

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131219_000149.jpg

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131218_233056.jpg

Here are some pics of the xbone pcb:

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131218_235318.jpg

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131218_235404.jpg

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131218_235423.jpg

http://i609.photobucket.com/albums/tt172/pwnerer_betty/20131218_235438.jpg

So in a nutshell, i removed the joysticks and installed four 10k ohm resistors, decided to use one usb cable using a switch…which i’m just now noticing i forgot the 33 ohm resistors on both the d+/- lines. I wired all of the xbone buttons to the te terminal, along with the vcc, ground, and the home to the turbo on the main te pcb. I wired the d-/+ from the xbone and the te pcb to the switch, and took the original cable d-/+ lines to the switch as well. I wired the vcc/ground from the original cable to the te pcb. Please let me know if i did something wrong because i want to test out the stick tomorrow.

Notes: i’m not sure if it will make a difference, but as you can see from my pics i used 1/2 watt resistors on one analog cube and 1/4 watt resistors on the other side. I did this because this was all radio shack had at the time. I you guys think this will cause a problem please let me know.

[b15sdm]

Just done a couple of xbone pad hacks and wired them up with stock xbox 360 pcbs found in the Madcatz fight stick pros.

That looks real nice and clean, now I’m even more pissed I dremeled out my plastic for that dumb battery pack. I’d be interested in seeing how you spliced onto the other boards. Was this a dual mod?

Maybe on the next (if any) setups I will be a little braver and try to use Toodles IMPv2 board aswell as I still have a load of them lying around.

Dude, if it helps then I can confirm this as working. My latest mod had a 360 TE pcb & Cerberus board going to one IMP channel, and the Xbone going to the other IMP channel.

It’s so much cleaner having everything travel through a single USB cable.

Thanks. From the very beginning I wanted to do away with the battery pack as it would never be used. To simplify the install I used the micro usb cable connector to plug directly to the xbox one pcb just to try and avoid any problems as this was the first time doing this mod.

I simply took all the xbox one signal wires and sodlered them directly to the madcatz 360 pcb and combined the V+ and G on both boards. I put both d+/d- lines from both pcbs to the DPDT slide switch so that way I only used the single USB cable for both pcbs.

I left the analogue sticks on the pcb and just hot glued them in place. Again, as this was the first time doing this mod I wanted to remove as many variables as possible. Now I know its a straight forward setup I might remove them on future mods. But to be honest there was plenty of space inside after snipping the grey plastic stick/pegs that I didn’t need to remove them in the first place.

Thanks for the advice Gahrling, on the next setups I will definitely go the IMPv2 route.

[ChaoticMonk]

Please let me know if i did something wrong because i want to test out the stick tomorrow.
Notes: i’m not sure if it will make a difference, but as you can see from my pics i used 1/2 watt resistors on one analog cube and 1/4 watt resistors on the other side. I did this because this was all radio shack had at the time. I you guys think this will cause a problem please let me know.

I don’t think you did anything wrong but you will need those 33ohm resistors on the data lines from xb1

As for the resistors, its not an issue as long as all were 10k. The ohms determines the resistance which affects the signal causing it to think the analog sticks are neutral. All the watt does is show how much load it can dissipate.

[Bush]

Where exactly do you solder the usb to avoid using resistors? Cheers

[gahrling]

Please let me know if i did something wrong because i want to test out the stick tomorrow.

I suspect you are going to have problems with this because your wiring is a mess and looks like you have multiple points shorting each other out. For instance look at how you’ve done the 10k resisters - the metal looks like it is in contact with loads of spots around it.

Speaking of which I am baffled as to why anyone would install the resistors like that. Please do it this way instead:

[Phish_Head]

Don’t know where else to ask… Is anyone willing to do this for me? I’ll pay shipping+labor and include the XB1 controller in my shipment. (Also if anyone is in Colorado that’s willing to do it that’d be even more sick.)

[gahrling]

Don’t know where else to ask… Is anyone willing to do this for me? I’ll pay shipping+labor and include the XB1 controller in my shipment. (Also if anyone is in Colorado that’s willing to do it that’d be even more sick.)

Need a Modder/Builder in Your Area? Check This Post

Chattanooga, TN [Currently not taking on new jobs until further notice.] Experienced with: Dual Mods (360>PS3 & PS3>360) Custom PCBs: ChImp, MC Cthulhu. Retail sticks: Mad Catz SE FightStick (360/PS3), MC TE FightStick (360/PS3), HRAP2/3, Hori Tekken 5, Namco PS1, Hori Arcana Heart 2, Hori Fighting Stick, Nubytech SF 15th Anniversary Edition. RJ45 console cable mods. Padhacks, desoldering buttons from PCBs & adding wires/disconnects, part swaps. Available for sale: Nubytech SFAE Stick [X-…

[Gummo]

Where exactly do you solder the usb to avoid using resistors? Cheers

Basically right on the micro usb jack’s pins because the next available solder spot is the onboard 33ohm resistors. Since they are rather small and difficult to solder to that is why a better spot is located after them at the TP spots. This of course bypasses them and the reason why you would have to add them in.

Honestly everyone should just use micro usb cables. Super cheap at monoprice.

[Bush]

Cheers. When doing a dual to an imp would it possible to connect a micro usb cable but then cut the cable and wire it the imp to avoid using resistors? Ye?

[gahrling]

Cheers. When doing a dual to an imp would it possible to connect a micro usb cable but then cut the cable and wire it the imp to avoid using resistors? Ye?

That’s how I did it.

[Vicko]

Cheers. When doing a dual to an imp would it possible to connect a micro usb cable but then cut the cable and wire it the imp to avoid using resistors? Ye?

That’s how I did it.

Cheers. When doing a dual to an imp would it possible to connect a micro usb cable but then cut the cable and wire it the imp to avoid using resistors? Ye?

That’s how I did it.

Me three.

[ChaoticMonk]

Ok so I got another pad and some supplies and gonna spend the weekend redoing my entire stick from scratch (no more splicing and no more re-purposing molex connectors).
Just wanted to double check my understanding of some of the recent posts.

• Instead of connecting triggers directly to the hall sensor, connect to ONE of the 2 points below it.
• Although doing the above means you don’t need a resistor, its highly recommended that you also add a resistor thats higher than 100ohm (220?..I ask cause I have some).
• connect micro usb cable, snip the other end and connect D+ & D- to a dpdt switch thereby allowing you to use 1 usb cable for dual mods. You’ll need to run VCC and GND separately (independent from the switch).

Question:

• To I need to be concerned with lack of power issues while running 4 boards+LEDs (cerberus, stock hori 360, xb1, remora)?
• Any recommendations regarding what I’m trying to do as far as best way to connect the boards together (connect xb1 signals to stock? connect them to cerberus? connect them to remora?)?