Lol - no problem, dude. Always a pleasure on the rare occasions when I get a customer such as yourself 
I need more Americans in my life.
Iām sorry man but CP isnāt powered? What is the CP and how do I power it? Is it in the tutorial on page 8?
Control Panel. You donāt have VCC connected to your TEās control panel as shown in the http://s10.postimg.org/nei071yx5/IMG_1719.jpg image. You need to power all your boards, otherwise behavior like you are observing can (and usually will) occur.
I see. Do you know which pin on the TE board I need to connect the VCC to?
See the wires you snipped sticking out? check which pin the red one goes to, that will be your VCC pin.
Makes me wonder if thats the root of my issues cause I donāt think all the boards are getting power like I had originally thought. Just gotta find the time to check with a multimeter like Phreak said.
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See the wires you snipped sticking out? check which pin the red one goes to, that will be your VCC pin.
Makes me wonder if thats the root of my issues cause I donāt think all the boards are getting power like I had originally thought. Just gotta find the time to check with a multimeter like Phreak said.
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Thanks a lot, Iāll try it out and let you guys know how it went.
Can anybody show me a alternate soldering spot for the A button? After I took this pic and wired it up the pot got pulled off when I was trying to find the problem with the d pad 
The problem with the directions is when I plug it in to the xbone forward up iis constantly happening but it only shows the input being hit once in the KI training room.
follow the trace and pick a new spot or solder to the A pin (see screenshot below) on one of the molex connector legs
http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p529/chaoticmonk/pcb.jpg~original
Did you use any flux when soldering? If you did I would go back and clean it off properly.
I had a similar problem once when using a new flux paste and it was causing the same issue. In my situation I put it down to using non lead soldering wire and the dodgey flux paste.
I believe when I was using this new flux paste it had a more snap/crackle effect and spat lots of residue around it and im convinced it also sprays some of the solder aswell which is causing a bad connection with something else.
Your wiring is poorly executed - āupā and other contacts look like they are also in contact with the GND circle going around the signal point. Re-align your wires so they are only touching the signal.
Looks like alot of cold joints there in the soldering.
When you get a chance look up some how-to-solder guides online, there is a really good guide on youtube
This video is kinda dry but its very informative.
Iām finally working on my own padhack and dual mod (with a Paewang) for a customer. Yay!
Butā¦ I must be missing somethingā¦ I soldered and tested the RT and LT lines with NO resister in place and have no issues.
Are you guys only using the 100ohm resisters on the triggers for dual mod purposes?
EDIT- Gummo said-
If this is indeed the case, why are those making a dedicated XBone stick not using the triggers?
Iāve been quite busy since the xbox one came out. Not so much with the ps4. Iāve also kept all the shellās and guts from the pads too in case someone needs the shells or something.
Damn, son!
I wonder how much the pcb would cost without the shell and extras. Sure would be nice if MS would let us buy just the pcbs lol
Youād have more luck going directly to the Chinese manufacturer, whoever it is.
hey quick question. I donāt think anyone has asked this yet, but is it ok to remove the two metal battery that stick out of the top board? Iām talking about the ones next to the RB. I donāt think it would hurt to remove them. What do you guys think? I normally folded them down to make it fit in tight places (making sure they didnt actually touch anything).
Yup you can remove them (I just cut mine)
So I finished my mod last night and everything worked great, I played about an hour of KI with no problems and no noticeable lag (I was using wireless.)
The one odd thing that would happen is that the A-button was not completely registering with the XB1 outside of KI, like the home screen or turning off the controller for example. Whatās even more odd is that the XB1 was getting the button press signal as the tile I was on would flash but nothing was happening. I have no idea whatās going on as I verified that KI registered every single A-button press by enabling the Input option.
Unfortunately everything isnāt bubble gum and lollipops as this morning I picked up the stick and turned it on and the direction inputs were not working. I noticed that the Guide LED stayed on for about 8 seconds then turned off, I turned it on 2x times and on the 3rd time it was completely dead; I have a feeling the battery caddy came a bit loose overnight and shorted out the board as the battery contacts are super tiny ā I should have moved the battery pack off-board via soldered wires, in fact had I done that I wouldnāt have had to dremel as much plastic off.
I was contemplating not posting this since it was ultimately a failure but good lessons can be learned from failures, sucks this one cost me $60! Iām not giving up though, Iāve got another controller lined up on CL for $40 ā at this point itās a personal goal to get this working even though Iāll end up spending almost as much as a TE2 (retail price anyway, eBay prices are redic.)
Here are some of my doās and donāts:
[list]
[]Do splice wires to the harness going out of the terminal block rather than to the underside of the block itself, it makes it more modular and all you need is some solder and electrical tape; shrink tube if you want to get fancy
[]Do wire the Sync switch to the header and tie it to the turbo button
[]Do wire both the KGND and GND signals to the control panel board, this will allow you to use the lockout switch as intended.
[]Do use the small 1/8W resistors for both the analog sticks (10K) and the D+/D- USB data lines (100.) There is very little power dissipated in these resistors so 1/8W is fine. The legs on the 1/8W resistors are small enough such that you can fit two into a single through-hole on the PCB which is perfect for the analog sticks if choose to replace them.
[]Do be very careful with the wires soldered to the button pads as these pads have extremely small copper traces holding them in place and it takes very little force to break the pad off. You may want to hot glue the wire in place as you go rather than the whole thing at the end to prevent inadvertent stress. I broke the pad off the X button by inadvertently nudging its wire but luckily I was able to wire it downstream at the mezzanine connector. If you rip the pad off the B-button you are up shit creek as there is no reasonable place to solder it downstream before it hits the microcontroller.
[]Do be very careful if your are going to try to wire up the trigger buttons, especially the Right Trigger. The 3-connector IC is a hall effect sensor and unfortunately the pin for the Right trigger sensor is dangerously close to a bypass capacitor. If youāre not super careful you will easily create a solder bridge between the signal pin and the cap shorting the signal to VCC. Be sure to do a continuity test to make sure you didnāt connect them.
[]Do put solder flux on the pin/pad before you solder to it. I highly recommend the paste flux which comes in a tube and looks alot like grease. The video posted above is excellent and is a must watch before you do any solder work. If youāre near a Frys, they carry this type of flux.
[]Do get yourself some PCB cleaner/solvent to remove the flux once youāre done soldering. Unless your rosin core solder and/or flux paste says āNo-cleanā then the flux can be conductive and cause issues. Even if it is no-clean it still looks ugly and its always nice to have clean shiny PCB after youāre done. Iāve seen people mix a 50/50 soln of IPA and acetone but I just get one of those spray cans for cleaning electronic PCBās which is safe on plastics. I too got this at Frys.
[]Donāt try to get fancy and try to relay signals trough the original PCB to the control panel if youāre not trying to dual-mod. I originally tried to do this so I can reuse more of the original harnesses but I was seeing odd behavior and in the end it made things more cramped with extra wires for no real gain.
[]Donāt mount the battery caddy to the top of the PCB, without the controller shell to seat it exactly where it should be there is too much potential to have it move and short something out.
Pic1 ā Splicing onto the original cable harness. I didnāt do my splice inline, rather I stripped both ends, held them up next to each other parallel then twisted the wires together and then soldered that for a nice joint. I then wrapped electrical tape around the exposed parts and then put shrink tube around all the insulated wire splices for a nice single harness.
http://i.imgur.com/PVPfrBY.jpg
Pic2 ā Same technique here for the USB cable to micro USB splice. This technique doesnāt look as clean as an in-line splice but I find it much easier. Itās exactly the same technique you would do with those cone-shaped electrical wire connectors that you twist on.
http://i.imgur.com/WxWtgEQ.jpg
Pic3 ā Here is the control panel with the wires soldered onto the underside. The wires I soldered were GND, KGND, Turbo (Sync), XGuild (Home) and VCC. Even though I know powering every PCB is the golden rule of modding, Iām fairly certain this board doesnāt require VCC to be sent to it as I could not find any active components; just diodes and switches. VCC is there to give power to the diodes which I donāt care to have work. I wired VCC anyway but I think Iām going to try it without next time.
http://i.imgur.com/8m9GgLK.jpg
Pic4 ā Here is what the battery caddy looks like after I dremelād away the surrounding plastic
http://i.imgur.com/s3dpqf8.jpg
Pic5 ā Two things to note here. First is that I mounted the PCB by using one of the bottom metal panel screws which was small enough to go through one of the mounting holes in the PCB. Note that I didnāt use the original screw that goes through the plastic panel as it was too big and I feared it would crack the PCB if I forced it through the mounting hole. Second to note is the battery caddy was secured by hot gluing the plastic stub at the bottom of the caddy into the hole made for it on the PCB. I am fairly sure this single pivot point was not a very secure mount and moved ever so slightly causing my board to short; so mount it this way at your own peril
http://i.imgur.com/SvtyiQ9.jpg
Pic6 ā Birds eye view of the stick prior to putting on the bottom
http://i.imgur.com/7MNmcFz.jpg
Pic7 ā View with the plastic bottom without the metal panel. Note how much I had to dremel to accommodate the battery caddy. I should have forgone the caddy when I knew it would require me to remove plastic that the metal panel plate wouldnāt cover. I might look into covering it by removing the 4 plastic feet and covering the whole bottom with foam like the TE2 (P.S., anybody know where I can get some of this adhesive foam to do this?)
http://i.imgur.com/XI4h6yZ.jpg?1
Thatās all I got. Hope it was helpful
Nice post Grammaton!
I developed the same exact issue yesterday and was able to narrow it down to the āviewā (aka back) button being constantly pressed.
You can re-create this issue by using a regular pad, hold down the view button then press A to select a tile and youāll notice the same thing happens.
I plugged my stick in with the 2nd cable and both stock and cerberus would also register the back button as being pressed. I ended up disconnecting my back button from xb1 for now cause it was getting late.
If your going wireless or do you mean in general? I was under the assumption that when wired it would auto sync.
What do you connect KGND to?
Darn, I got scared by your prior post and went with 1/2w thinking ābetter safe than sorryā. Those were a nightmare to get on lol
Also, your using 100ohm for data lines? I thought it was 33ohms?
And, why resistors on data lines if your using the microusb jack?