Thanks ChaoticMonk, that makes a whole lot of sense. It also makes sense why I didn’t see it in KI as ‘View’ is not an input that shows up.
P.S. What are the rules about cross posting to other sites because I just found a forum that has this controller broken down to a ‘T’ with pad traces and even where to solder for the trigger buttons (it’s not the pins!). I’d love to share the info but don’t want to break any rules.
I’ve seen others post links so shouldn’t be an issue. Post away, would love to see it!
I have the same problem with the A button not working properly on the dashboard too. In my case its because RT is always pressing which I cant disable as I don’t have it wired up in the first place.
I find if I have to lightly touch A a few times on the dashboard to get it to work.
I think im going to do another pad. I have a constantly pressing RT and im missing a B button that I fucked up trying to fix the trigger issue. I dunno though cos I can still play killer instinct no problems.
No need to splice when you can just solder the terminal block ribbon cables directly to the Xbone pad.
The same thing happens to me due to RT being constantly pressed on my board due to a soldering issue. I think RT is the most difficult solder point.
Hah, I am in the exact same boat as you. Everything works fine except that RT is constantly being pressed. For me that bothers me enough that I’m probably going to do another pad.
I found that website Grammon
Do you know where you messed up?
I soldered a 10k on the RT, which was fine but didn’t read. When I desoldered it and redid it with 100 ohm, I must have heated up the board/IC too much and the pin came off.
I had this problem without even wiring up the trigger wires in the first place though
RT is definitely the most awkward signal point on this pcb…
I guess I’m the only one who wires up to the bottom of the resistor/capacitor pair?
Where is that? You mean the pink/blue on these scans? Looks pretty tiny to me. Probably worth a shot if I can salvage my RT with it.
I do now thanks to you!
much easier
Doh, my thunder was stolen but yea, everybody needs to go read this post on the acidmods forum. This is the one I was referring to which has all the traces laid out and the functionality of all the header and test point pins figured out.
Also, I found this PDF which has some very good detailed hints on how to solder up your wires specifically for the XB1 pad. It’s for an install of a rapid fire IC but there is still much to gleam from it for our purposes. In particular I really like the advice of only removing half of the carbon off the pad which will make pulling the entire pad off much less likely as it still has some support from the carbon to keep it in place. I’m actually going to attempt to solder all my wires to the mezzanine connectors as I bought some 30AWG wire and a new tip for my iron with a real tiny chisel point head.
Finally, as pointed out, the LT and RT solder points can be moved to the low-pass RC filter as shown in the acidmods PCB scans. The fact that you have two pads to connect to (one for the resistor and one for the cap) should make this easier; a lot easier than say the D14 diode pad for the B-button.
Soldering to the RC filter also means you don’t need to bother with a series resistor (10 - 100 ohm) as the low-pass filter resistor buffers you from the pin.I need to verify that the resistor in the filter is in series and not in parallel with the output before I stand behind this claim, continue to use a resistor no matter where you hook up for now. If you do intend to solder directly to the signal pin on the hall sensor then you definitely need the series resistor. The rational behind that is because unlike all the other buttons on the pad, the LT and RT buttons are being actively sourced by the hall sensor; it’s actually a precision current source sinking to GND if you care. This source will vary as the magnetic field strength gets stronger/weaker as the trigger buttons move closer/away from the sensor. When the trigger is pulled, the internal current source increases which causes more voltage to be dropped by an internal pull-up resistor (probably 10K) which in turn causes the output voltage to trend towards zero. It is an EXTEMELY bad idea to short a source (current or voltage) directly to ground; this is why you need the series 10-100ohm resistor if you tie to the hall sensor pin.
Also of note is that using a simple DMM to get the output voltage of the hall sensor is not going to give you the right data, this is because the Vcc pin of each trigger sensor is being pulsed at 125Hz with an 18% duty cycle and A DMM in VDC mode is expecting constant voltage. Again, as these are the only two pins being actively powered, that means they will also actively eat away at your battery. Pulsing the power can save considerable amount of battery life. The pulsing also means it’s harder for people to mod for rapid fire which I (we?) couldn’t care less about but it also means there is 6.5ms of dead time every 8ms where the triggers are NOT looked at. In terms of frame data at 60 frames/sec that is about 40% of a frame. If you do use these buttons in-game and you have super twitchy fingers it’s conceivable that over a course of a long gaming session you may hit the button and not have it register. As long as you keep the button pressed for at least 8ms you’re guaranteed to have the XB1 pick it up.
Super ninja edit.
For those of you who absolutely do not want wireless functionality you could remove the antenna which should do the trick. I’m keeping mine so I can’t verify this will work but RF tends to have a very bad day when it doesn’t have an antenna to radiate from. The antenna is the large U-shaped with a tail metal piece riding on top of the battery terminal to the upper left of the B-button. If you remove it I suggest desoldering it and not clipping it. If you really want to kill it you could cut the large trace leading to it going as far back to the floating PCB which has all of the Wifi electronics. I don’t suggest you do this unless you want to be the guinea pig. If you have a board that is FUBAR but can still connect via wireless take one for the team and see if that kills it. Also verify your XB1 wifi connection still works fine.
I can confirm that removing the antenna is not enough; you will have to cut the trace here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1570228/2013-12-16%2021.22.21.jpg
Also while testing, be sure not to point the IR blaster towards your Kinect or else it will still register.
So I plugged in my stick with the stock usb cable (goes to cerberus and from cerberus to stock hori 360 pcb) then checked the xb1 pad with multimeter (one end on ground and the other on vcc) and it registered just under 5v so looks like its getting power but when I press the home button (home button from all pads go to the same button) the xb1 pad doesn’t try to turn on…strange.
I’m still experiencing issues with back button shorting out and right button triggering random (longer I play, worse it gets).
I’ll through together a wiring diagram, maybe a fresh pair of eyes can spot something I’m missing. Trying to get the stick functioning for a local tourny on Thu (fingers crossed)
Ahh, glad someone tried out removing the antenna from the equation. I didn’t want to tell people to do that because then they may have just created a possible jammer in their house. I was going to give it a go but now I’m glad I didn’t have to, nice!
Oh, alternatively to cutting the trace it appears you might be able to remove C62 on the castellated wifi board. Haven’t looked at it under a solid magnifier but it seems to be inline with the RF signal output from the IC. Quicker to remove that than cut the trace if you’ve got the chops to do it anyway.
Grammaton - The resistor is in series with the signal as far as I can tell, I think you’re good to go. I started just soldering to the end of them for the triggers. I also just solder to the end of the 33 ohm resistors on the USB data lines too though, saves using external components, save for diodes anyway.
Where are these spots for triggers that don’t require resistors?
There’s pics in that acidmods post
Have you tried my suggestion of running a 360 PCB ground to a case screw? Like I said, that fixed my problem 100% when dealing with 3PCB’s. If you’re out of ideas you may give it a try and see if it helps, at the very least it isn’t going to hurt.