24AWG Cat6E. I have 100’ or so lying around extra so I unwound it all so it’s nice and straight and using it with a color code sheet I am making. “Keep it simple stupid” 
I have finished and have the rest of the stick working. This was just my first button and pad hack so I miss judged the size of the solder point lol. This board I am going to keep and put in my stick since I am practicing on it. I was just curious if the B button could be saved or if I screwed the proverbial pooch.
You actually already get this functionality by wiring the XB1 home button to turbo instead of dinking with other methods. Keeps the two signals separated and you get lockout still. Alternatively you’d have to run XB1 home to a switch if you wanted to use a single home button but have it only activate the system you currently are using. Gummo did that initially and I though it was a pretty slick way to do things.
That is a bit odd, multimeter it out, but they should be connected and both powered by that description.
Is there a chance there is a b button point on the header? Has someone tested all those points? I notice some are missing on the guide on page 8
It is not on the header but looking at your pick it looks like you screwed both the big contact at the button and smaller contact at the end of the trace. If you have a good eye you can flip the board over and try to follow the trace on the other side of the Pcb. 24ga is not a bad wire by any means so if you can follow the trace just be a tad bit more careful
The underside of the board is another board so I can’t find the trace. Again it’s no problem. I knew i screwed it I was just hoping that i could salvage it. I’ll just map to another button and call it a day. thanks for your help.
Another question for you though. Do i need to disable the wireless since I am tapping onto vcc between the boards? When I plug in my stick the controller flashes. I don’t have an xbone to test it on so I don’t know. If so where do I disable it at?
I believe the card on the underpart of the “B” button is the wireless card. Right above it looks like the antenna.
Its going to be nightmare using the Xbox without a b button cos that’s the button you use to go back in the menus
‘B’ can only be located on the trace, it does not connect to the two molex sockets in any way.
It makes sense when you think about it because the sockets are only there to communicate with the top board, and the top board does not have a ‘B’ button.
just turn off the system
Turn off that system every time you want to back up in a menu?
Wait you can actually use voice controls to go back so it’s not too bad
Either that or throw it out the window
or buy a new pad
If you are in a pinch, but don’t want to damage the screws, you can just dremel a notch in the end of a flathead screwdriver so it straddles the pin in the screw head. You don’t need to make contact with every angle of the star shape, 2 is fine
-ud
Hey guys, I just got my stick in the mail to add my Xbox one controller board to. I already have everything soldered up on the controller. I just need to know where to solder the guide button on the stick. It’s a PS3 Street Fighter 4 TE (round 1). I seen a diagram somewhere in this thread on where to do it on the SFXT stick but it looks a little different.
The turbo panel is the same as the pic I posted earlier:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1570228/turbo%20panel.PNG
So I’m about to quad mod a Razer Atrox…
Luckily I figured out a way to fit a neutrik rj45 jack in the back and still keep the atrox pcb in place with its own jack. Atrox jack will == ps3/360. Rj45 jack will == ps4/xb1.
There’s so much melted plastic smell in the room now.
why no dremel
LMAO!! Nah I am good. i will only be using it to play KI if and when I ever do. It’s really not that big of a deal. To be honest with you I bought the controller from Walmart with cash just for this reason. I can always put it back together and be like it don’t work for some reason 
Dremeling plastic for me still melts the shit out of it. I can’t imagine Gummo using anything else.
Uh what else would I have used? How do you think I found a way to make it fit?
So I changed out the resistors yesterday night and played for an hour without any issues
Today I played for another hour then it started holding up by itself 
Not having the greatest luck with this thing. I fix it and it works for a bit then some issue starts lol