Step one: strip down both controllers
Step two: solder wires to buttons on xb1 pad
Step three: Solder said wires to buttons on madcatz fight pad (existing guides are available through search)
Step four A: Wire up GND and VCC between each pad if you plan on using 2 usb cables
or
Step four B: hook up each usb to a switch or imp if you plan on using a single cable
Step five: put both controllers back together OR
Personally I would use the existing harnesses from the TE for the joystick and the buttons. The only thing you will need to solder directly to a PCB would be the home button on the turbo panel:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1570228/turbo%20panel.PNG
hey thanks for the quick reply. Iām going to try and open it up sometime. so keep the existing harness, solder the home button, and solder the other buttons (located on the pad pcb) to the existing harness.
Hey Vicko I did post pics on my post. Can you help me out?
so what about the usb connectivity? will the ps3 stick connect to the xbox one after putting an xbox pad in there?
Nice one, thanks.
cut the usb from the ps3 pcb and solder/splice onto the xb1 pad. itās easier to splice a micro usb cable and plug in than to solder onto the xb1 pad itself.
Tactiks what guage wire did you use?
So last night I picked up a used SFxT Pro stick and began the mod process.
Iām going to finish it up tonight but here are some interesting tid bits that might be of interest to those who are modding, especially a SFxT stick
[list]
[] Maybe I didnāt pay close enough attention to the pad disassembly video but the T10 screws on my pad were security torx with the pin in the center. Since I didnāt have that bit I MacGuyvered it out by heating the screw with the soldering iron until the plastic threads it was screwed into started to melt and become loose. I would wiggle the screw around with the iron to make the hole bigger and then while still hot I used some needle nose pliers to pull on the screw head and that bitch just slipped out no problem.
[]I took somebodyās advice and cut and old Ethernet cord an used the 24AWG twisted pair wires (there are 8 ). Not only is this way cheap but they are color coded
[]Since my mod is XB1 only, instead of soldering to the bottom of the terminal block for the buttons I instead cut off the header that went into the original PCB and spliced on the Ethernet wire. I used some electrical tape to cover the splice then tied them all together with shrink tube. Iāll post some pics when I get home because this is pretty easy to do and much cleaner IMHO
[]On my SFxT terminal block I noticed that the ground points for the Start and Back buttons were separate from the other buttons. There is an extra lead on the harness called KGND which ties to these two buttons. Iām not sure why they did it this way but since everything on the XB1 pad is common ground I need to tie the regular GND to KGND. I could jumper it on the terminal block itself but I think the cleaner way is to just wire KGND to a separate ground point in the XB1 PCB and let the board tie them together.
[]I dremmeled out the battery holder as somebody suggested and will hot glue it in place over the battery tines so that I can have the wireless option. I think this is really sweet as it gives me the option to still plugin if I go to a tournament; not sure why this feature isnāt standard with these sticks.
[]I want to hook up he sync button to Turbo but that switch is so small it doesnāt look feasible a that point. The switch button does go to one of the two mezzanine board connectors and I think thatās the best place to tap it. Iāll update with a pic to show which pin it is.
So thatās about it for progress. I still need to splice in the micro usb cable and solder the Ethernet wires to the pad and that should about do it.
By the way, you should most definitely test out your PCB to be in working condition prior to soldering to it. This is as simple as powering the PCB via micro usb and then going to the KI practice mode and enable the visible input option. The only buttons you canāt test are the triggers.
You also couldāve just taken a small flathead and broke the pin in the middle of the torx to save alot of time
@GrammatonKlerik Can you post pics as I know there are a few of us interested in see this mod in more detail? Thanks!!
I got my Security Torx off with just apply downward pressure with my T6 and T10 and they come loose. I bought Tamper Proof Torx set off Amazon for the next time to make it easier.
Exactly what I did.
Tamper proof my arse.
You tampering crooks! =P
I really appreciate the help on that. I am really interested in giving this a try just worried I am going to mess my stick up. Think I might just get a second cheap stick try it out and go from there. That way I know what I am doing or try and find someone to do it.
The KGND option for both home and start/select were added in later gens of the TE to keep people from pausing or accidentally bringing up a menu during tournament play. More of a āsave yourself from yourselfā option. Most people just bridge these two but it can be used in clever ways to keep that type function when doing mods. In this case, you could in theory use it to disable pressing the XB1 padās home button and trying to sync up on accident when using the other system in a dual mod. *note to self, try this, lol
The option for wireless is usually frowned upon at tournaments for the reason that when pads like the DS3/DS4 and now the XB1 pad boot up it can instantly search/attach to the previously used system. Itās why dual shocks are banned at tournaments, even when circumvented via modding. Itās why we were fairly happy with microsoft when they said that the pad becomes pure USB when hooked up to the XB1 via a cable. The danger is it in dual mods where it can be powered, and you press the home button where it will fall back to wireless and sync to the previous system.
Hah, thatās what Iāve been doing. Going to pick up a security set today though, Gummo told me they have a nice set from Husky at Home Depot.
Probably pick that up and a webcam, might livestream my dual mod, could be funā¦ or just give people a chance to laugh at me if I fuck it up >.<
No problem @WushuSeth If you decide to try it on the q4 and need help. Just post here.
[quote=āPhreakazoid, post:735, topic:164985ā]
You could have a padhack-along. Sounds like a fun activity haha
double post
Man, its hard to get the solder to stick to that point
Flux is your friend! Try exposing a bit more wire and following the shape of the contact point.
Also, you need to scrape off the black stuff (I assume you already did but mentioning just in case)
Genius!
I do have a question about the home button though, in my setup (2 usb cables) if I plug the cerberus USB cable in instead and press the home button the xb1 pad doesnāt wake up. Does this mean I donāt have power going to it?
VCC and GND from cerberus and xb1 both go to the same terminal on remora and since VCC and GND are connected from stock pcb to cerberus wouldnāt that mean that VCC and GND are going to each board?
Ye I rubbed the block stuff off and used flux but I just couldnt get it stick, it looks like a burnt mess now and I dont think I will be able to use it. Is there anywhere else to try?