Yeah what Grammaton said is correct, it’s an either/or thing for that part of the mod. Sounds like you removed the DPAD connections to eliminate them, correct? If so, follow his suggestion of possibly removing the cubes and then using the 10k neutralization.
There isn’t one. If you tore the trigger IC off the board we’ll have to see if there’s another way we can get this to work but as it stands the ONLY other spot to solder to in that signal’s path is on the 100Ohm/Capacitor SMT pads, which are 0402 in size and altogether not terribly simple to solder to unless you’ve got some chops. From there, it goes straight to the MCU, there is no test point that I’ve found yet.
For the moment, the only way to really do that is to wire home to something other than your normal “home” button, or put a switch in place. It appears that once the pad is powered, unless connected to the XB1 it will attempt to use the wireless. Sometimes it seems to boot right into the search, in other test cases it waits for you to press the home button. Let me ponder that one, might have a solution for people but I want to test some stuff out first before telling you to do it, lol.
I had the same issue as you, and I also hooked up 10kohm resistors to the triggers initially. My LT has been fine, and I put a lower resistor on it. I managed to damage the RT point and lift it off when putting the lower resistor on it, so I just left it off.
The first time I went in to KI I had the same issue as you where RT appeared to be constantly being pressed, but the next day it was fine. Now I have 7 working buttons and no issues, except for laggy input in the OS menu (anyone else seen this?).
No it’s not a dual mod. I did it as straight forward as possible. I left the analogs on, didn’t wire up the triggers and used the micro usb cable. I got the problem of rt always pressing after doing it this way. I do have problems with a taking a few presses to work in the os menu but I’m presuming that’s cos rt is always pressing.
the 10k resistors are for neutralizing the analog cubes if you choose to remove them. Its 100ohm for the triggers.
Thanks. Would love to eliminate as many ‘issues’ as possible.
The last time I took the stick down to a local event I plugged it into another xbone and it wouldn’t sync (the light just kept flashing) even when I pressed the sync button on the pad (light flashes quicker) nothing happened but that was before I knew where the sync button on the console was.
I had taken a controller with me too and plugged that in using the same usb cable and it connected fine. Ended up having to use my console to get it functioning again.
Thanks a lot for doing the hard work for me guys. You work is very much appreciated coming from someone with 3 babies and little time.
I have an issue i need help with and a question.
Q. I have the pad hooked up with VCC to the other board. When I plug the other board in the pad home light flashes like it’s trying to sync. I don’t have an xbone so I can’t tell if it is trying to connect or if it is just registering power only. Is there a way to turn the wireless sync off, or am I okay, it’s just powering up and it won’t sync?
Problem:
The very first solder I did i messed up. I tried to salvage it by going to a lower point but I messed that up too. Take a look and tell me if there is any way of salvaging “B”. (You guys weren’t kidding about them being very sensitive. I didn’t make the same mistake 2x lol)
So after noticing lag on my inputs when jumping to the right from player 1 side I looked at inputs in training mode and noticed that I get -> then the jump forward. Which makes it come outta Lil late from the forward input. Sometimes it just does forward input without the jump. I tested it with my ps360 pcb and it gets the same problem so it’s not my xbox one pad. Then I tried another stick I had and the same problem occurs. Could it be the harness that goes into the stick? Since the same was used for the test.
quick update, I tried the stick on pc using Cerberus and stock 360 and the left input is exhibiting the same issue so I guess its not the padhack but the stick
Scratch that, now the right input is constantly held down regardless which pcb I use. Also, while plugged into xbone I unplugged the jfl harness from the stick and it still held right.
Since its ghost inputs and they’re directional I’m gonna assume its the analog part and change out the 8.2ohm 1/4w ones with 10kohm 1/2w ones tomorrow and hopefully that does the trick (or at least eliminates that from the equation)
The pad was working fine beforehand though so it must be something I did. Ive uploaded some pics of my board, maybe someone can see something I messed up. I have no wires soldered and its constantly pressing RT.
The main thing I need now is another way to solder B button as I fucked it up being careless removing the wires. Anyone have any idea how me could and tactics could fix this?
Currently working on my first two Xbone mods, one is a straight conversion the other is a tri-mod with a 360 TE pcb and cut down Cerberus board. These pads are already upsetting me… particularly the placement of the ‘B’ button.
I do like ripping the sides off with my bare hands though. Satisfying.
I wanted to know if there was a tutorial on getting the madcatz fightpad to work on xb1. I’ve been looking in this thread but am having trouble piecing all this info together. I’ve never done this before but am willing to learn how to do this. If not, then I apologize for wasting anyone’s time.
