There’s a difference between making a good analogy that makes sense, and firing off a half cocked one that tries to state that putting a shitload of salt and wrecking a batch of cookies is equivalent to slightly loading a circuit further and causing something completely unrelated to happen.
I get what your analogy was, it was still stupid and simply made you look like an asshole.
As for the matter of fact statement about what is causing it, there’s this thing called experience that allows me (and others) to make statements that are more focused than your blanket “well, you’re loading this too much so it’s probably doing something to the rest of the board.” I’m aware these are very likely 4 layer boards, but they are also very simple.
Congrats, now you’re actually debugging. Welcome to Tech Talk.
Does it matter if the resistor for the triggers is 1/4 Watt or 1/2 Watt? I got 100 ohms of both, but I don’t see much difference besides the size. My electronics knowledge only goes so far…
Resistors are passive circuit elements that dissipate power in the form of heat. How much power a given resistor can dissipate before self destructing/over heating is given by its wattage/power rating. A 1/2 Watt resistor can dissipate twice the power of a 1/4 watt resistor. Therefore, it’s always better to err on the conservative side and go with the beefier, higher power rated resistor – 1/2Watt in your case. The trade off for higher power rating is generally size as a larger body has more surface area to dissipate the heat more effectively. If you’re trying to make the next MacBook Air you really, really care about size. For this type of stuff, size is of no concern for the most part.
I dont if people “hate” the cronus but I generally do not like converters.
if you take for example two people that speak the same language, their conversation is going to be pretty fluid. If you have two people that speak different languages and use a translator, it is nice because they are still able to communicate but it wont be as fluid. Not only that but some things dont directly translate from one language to another so there could be problems interpreting.
This is how I look at converters in general. They, to me, are like translators. They are nice because they allow two different things to communicate with each other but it would be much better to speak the actual language which is what we are doing here in this thread by padhacking.
This is also why I like Project box mods so much. It essentially takes a pad from a different system and treats the pad as if it were just a stick and buttons.
Sorry if answered before but how easy would this be to do for the Qanba Q4? Since its all in one for PS3/360/PC I figure it shouldn’t be to bad no? Just want to know if anyone has done it yet and if its something doable without any other pcb’s but the one that comes with the Qanba and the Xbox One pad PCB. Thanks guys also (first post)
and now my left input is acting up (sometimes doesn’t input, sometimes inputs twice) guess its time to take it apart again and swap out those resistors.
Well first attempt and i think i might have ruined the board. I somehow couldn’t get RT to solder due to what appears to be a micro diode? The solder kept sticking to it and i’m almost certain that it would have shorted something if i had connected the controller. I tried to de-solder it but somehow the leg of the ic chip and the micro diode both came off the pcb. Do you guys know if we can just solder all of the wires to the connector pins, if not how about another place to solder for the right trigger?
@WushuSeth I did it to my Qanba Q4. I suggest taking the pcb out of the stick and writing a diagram of the pins on the back of the pcb and labeling them accordingly. Another thing to be careful with is the proximity of the pins to each other. if one of the point contacts the pin next to it (usually the ground) you’ll have a constant button press on both pcbs. After mapping which pin is which just solder from the closest to furthest from side to where the XO pcb will lie so you don’t have to solder under wires. If you have any questions just post here or PM me. and welcome to SRK : )
BTW. When wiring the home button, I wired it to the turbo button since the XO pcb is sometimes on when using the Xbox 360. This allows you to use the home button just for the 360 and the turbo button to turn off the XO pcb.
I took the time to make this elegant diagram for you. This is the back of the Q4s pcb. This is for the Q4 with the reflective button panel, not the brushed version as the pcb is different
Soldered resistors, left analog stick still bugging out. Suppose I need to remove the analog cube? Read through entire thread and nobody else has mentioned the analog buggin while still attached, the only analog shorting mentioned was after the cube was removed so i dunno WTF is wrong. D-Pad responds if i can get the input in before analog jump madness, every button works fine…is there somewhere else i could have screwed up? Checked and rechecked connections against diagrams and looks right, everything responding but soon as i hit menu in player versus player P2 being the mod, endlessly backjumps. I removed glue from left analog and i hold down a direction it does respond, but even slowly moving analog there’s no neutral. Tried restarting system, unpluggin USB and pluggin back in and it stops, soon as I move an inch it starts again…
Detached buttons and stick and analog still bugging on it’s own. Sigh. Any suggestions? There a possibilty it something with D-pad using JLF harness, even not attached to stick? Trying to figure what try out next. Thanks for any help.
Can you be a bit more specific on which resistors you’re referring to: both location on board and value? If you’re talking about the 10K resistors, those are only necessary if the cubes are removed because the cubes themselves are variable resistors (with a neutral stick value of 10K.)
Was following that, using the pics from Chaotic assemby tutorial on page 8 with 10-kohm 1/4 watt resistors. Was giving it a shot cuz the analog freaking out and i never touched it after making sure it was neutral before hot gluing into place, trying just to see if resistors would stop the analog bugging. It didn’t.
So maybe I’m misunderstanding your post before this one but it sounds like you somehow soldered the 10K’s while still keeping the cubes installed? If so, I’m not sure how you tackled that feat since the cubes block the pads you need to solder the 10K’s to. In either case, it’s either discrete 10K resistors across the pins you quoted OR you leave the cubes on and hotglue to neutral. If you’re getting odd behavior with the cubes on, I would recommend removing them and trying the discrete 10K’s if you haven’t already. If you STILL have problems, do a thorough check of the components in close proximity of where the cube was to make sure you didn’t accidentally reflow something you shouldn’t have and/or created a cold solder joint, etc.
Looks right to me but you’ll want to use a separate home button in the xbone so you don’t accidentally turn it on when trying to press home in the paewang.
Speaking of which, anyone know of a way to ‘disable’ wireless on the xbone pad?
I think I’ll put the home from the xbox one on the home of the TE, and the Home of the Paewang will move along with the turbo button, this way I’ll only press home when on the xbox one, and turbo (home) when using the paewang, Start and Select will be normal.
So this is what happens when I got into remap buttons in KI. I didnt have the triggers wired up and I even tried wiring them up and used 10k resistors but I get the same thing. If I set the buttons with my other pad and go back and play with stick everything else works fine. Does anyone have any idea whats going on? I only want to use 6 buttons anyway so is there some way to disable the triggers altogether?
I dont know if ive done damage to the triggers now, here are some pics of where I soldered to the them.
guess its time to take it apart again and swap out those resistors.