I got that figured out and thats cool. Tganks but i still need to fix that trigger. Anywhere else that u can use the trigger,it acts as if im pressing LT over n over. I need the trace that i cant find 
Yes, **you should **ground the SGND (Shield Ground) to the GND (common ground) pin. This ensures that both ends of the USB shield are grounded which is extremely important to prevent EMI (electromagnetic interference) being radiated out from the differential data signals, potentially corrupting nearby signals.
Proper shielding is a sort of black art as the rules of the game completely flip on their head depending on the frequency of the data being transferred. When transferring data at a slow rate, say in the 10ās to 100ās of kilohertz then you are mainly concerned with preventing EXTERNAL signals from coupling into and corrupting your data signals. To do this you only want to ground the shield on one side of the cable (generally the host side) and leave the other side disconnected. Only grounding one side breaks any potential ground loop which will induce noise into your data signals. However, when you are transferring data in the 10ās to 100ās of Megahertz (or higher) you now want to prevent your INTERNAL data signals from affecting outside signals. In this case you definitely want to ground the shield on both ends to effectively create a cage around your data lines and protecting surrounding signals from corruption.
Can you solder underneath the mico-usb port instead of those random places on the pcb? Iād prefer that (attaching TE USB cords etcā¦) but it seems to be missing the pins
These are termination resistors, without them you are putting tons of signal reflections on to the data lines which causes a lot of EMI to be radiated out and can (and in your case did) corrupt other signals.
Edit: Neverind im an idiot
Wow, really? Iāve been using 8.2ohm in mine for a couple weeks with daily use and havenāt had any issues apart from triggers activating remora leds :S
Guess I should change them asap
If I want to use a Paewang PS3/Xbox (already installed) with the Xbone PCB at my TE, all I have to do its to solder the ground and all the signals from each buttons and directions at the respective buttons on the TE (all together where the Paewang its already soldered), then I use and DPDT on the USB out from each controller (using a microusb cable on the Xbone PCB) and thatās it?
Posted a picture, so itās easy to understand and answer if itās right or not.
Lol didnāt I tell you to swap those for 10k like 3 pages ago and give you the exact reason why?
I just did this and it seemed to go alright but im having trouble with the triggers like other people have. I didnt even wire up the triggers but when I go into to remap the buttons in killer instinct it freaks out, going up and down the menu and pressing LT. Do I have to use resistors even though im not using the triggers? I only have 10k ressistors, will they be ok if I have to use them?
Its fine for the minute cos I set the buttons with my other pad and I seem to be able to play without probelems but id like to sort it.
Iām tapping outā¦Iāve decided to seek the help of one much more skilled than Iā¦donāt judge me because Iām lazy.
Ughhā¦ I didnāt notice your posts till too late. If you still have the damaged pad pcb then please bring it with you on Sat (along with everything it came with like the shell and screws), I might be able to do something about it.
Indeed you did but you said since it was 1/4w Iād most likely be fine and to keep tabs on it in case it gets hot after prelonged usage but to be on the safe side I should replace them.
Grammatonās post seems to have a sense of urgency and doom! lol
Iāll grab 10k ones this week and change them out. Thank you both for your help too, really do appreciate it!
I do have an unrelated (I think?) question. Iām still stuck with the triggers activating remora LEDs.
When I first plug in the stick and everything gets power, remora engages āscreen saverā mode.
When I turn on the xbone pcb both trigger button LEDs act as though they are constantly held down but theres no impact at all to actual signals ingame.
Any suggestions on how to hunt down the issue? its more of an annoyance really.
I was having random button inputs with my MC/360/IMp2/XOne mod, despite everything being hooked up properly. What ultimately fixed it for me was running a ground from my 360 PCB to a screw. I initially did this to fix the trigger dispersion issue my ver. 1 T.E. had. Since youāre also running a few PCBās you may want to try this, I donāt know if it will provide a fix for your remora, but it wonāt hurt. My stick has been running FLAWLESSLY since I ran that ground.
So 10k then? Thankfully didnāt start yet, but confirm itās 10-kohm on the package? Really trying not to screw this up lol, Resistors for Dummies help necessary
By chance any pics of your resistor placement? Edit nevermind found it man this computer sucks
In all fairness itās not ridiculously urgent, the voltage on the pots is pretty low, about 1.8v or so and since youāre just neutralizing the signals and not actually dropping the tap point to ground or anything I doubt you will burn things up. Still, you should swap them at a given chance since itās still adding strain to the circuit.
As for the LEDs, I told Slash this via twitter but whatās probably happening is that the connected boards are causing the signal voltage to drop low enough that the remora sees it as a button being pressed, but the pad/controllers do not. You would need to isolate the trigger signal to keep it from causing this with a diode (anode on xbone RT, cathode on other PCB/buttons) or something.
The reason it happens on the triggers but not the other buttons is simply how they operate and the voltages that they operate at.
So lets recap what you just said but instead of circuits, resistors and LEDās lets use something that more people can relate to, cookies! In fact lets make it gingerbread since we are near the holidays.
*āJust the other day I got a recipe for gingerbread cookies and it called out for one (1) teaspoon of salt but I accidentally poured in the entire package of salt, one thousand (1000) teaspoons. Instead of starting over I decided to bake the cookies anyway and keep an eye on the reaction of the people I give them to. When I gave the cookies to people to eat, they all immediately puked the cookie out of their mouths and proclaimed there is definitely something wrong with the cookies. Iām pretty sure them not liking the cookies is completely unrelated to the fact that I put in 1000x more salt than what was called for.ā *
If you were to have told that story everybodyās reaction would be āLol, wut?ā
Lets recap, you put in a resistor with a value 1000x different than what was called for and you are experiencing odd behavior elsewhere on the board and youāre not even considering the fact that the resistors could be the issue? Iām not guaranteeing your problem will go away after installing proper 10K resistors, but I will guarantee you are operating in a zone that the pad was never meant to be in as long as you leave in the 10 ohm.
6 posts deep and heās already firing shots lol
Sorry, that was a pretty asshole post. Iām just trying to point out that PCBs are very complicated beasts and thatās when you have the full schematic and routing masks! In this case we only have a birdās eye view of whatās going on so its very important that components be used that we have the most confidence are the correct values.
In the case of the analog sticks, the circuit in use is most likely a wheatstone bridge which works by balancing resistors throughout the bridge. In a vacuum, using 10 ohm resistors instead of whatever the neutral resistance value of the analog cube is (presumably 10K) shouldnāt make a difference as the bridge is still balanced. However, we are not working in a vacuum, for all we know other circuits are tapping off some of the resistors in the bridge to derive other voltages and/or currents to trigger something else. This is why when you are reverse engineering something, you want to minimize as many as variables as possible, especially if things are not working as expected.
Thatās the worst analogy Iāve ever fucking seen, and isnāt helpful in any way.
Please read what his issue is before making that kind of jump, perhaps do some research into what the Remora which he is talking about, even is. The 10 ohm resistors were used in the analogs to neutralize the signal, which are working fine (albeit strained), his LED issue has to do with the triggers, and very much to do with connected boards external to the XB1 PCB. You seem like a technical guy, so read this as a VIH/VIL issue, specifically the differences on those that these boards have. Please try to avoid insulting members who have been legitimately helpful to others and may not quite know the ins and outs of what they are working on.
Before this gets further out of hand:
ChaoticMonk, Iām not trying to be a troll or personally attack or insult you in any way shape or form. When people are working with electronics that know little about the field it is only natural that they will not see how a seemingly small issue can actually cascade into a larger one. I didnāt relate it to cookies because I think you or anybody else here is too dumb to understand otherwise, rather I choose cookies because everybody loves a good cookie and can relate to making them; they donāt seem nearly as mysterious as moving electrons in a wire. The post was a bit snarky and for that I apologize. I still highly encourage you to replace the resistors with the proper values. As I mentioned in my last post, minimizing variables is the first thing you do when you are troubleshooting an issue and having values that are 1000x out of spec is a big variable.
Phreakazoid, the nature of analogies are such that they are not perfectly applicable to the issue they are trying to portray. The point I was trying to get across (and I stated so explicitly) is not that the wrong resistor value is 100% the cause of the trigger LEDās being lit but that it may be a contributing factor. Even if itās not a contributing factor for that issue, itās still a variable you want to eliminate. These PCBs are probably 4 to 6 layers with internal signal routing layers. Unless you have the official schematic and routing masks for each layer or you have acid etched the PCB to reverse engineer, I feel it is unwise to make any matter-of-fact statement on what is or is not a contributing factor.
The remora board looks to be a LED driver and the inputs of drivers tend to be extremely high impedance such that it doesnāt load down the source, so I doubt that hooking up the board is causing a loading issue. As you stated, It may be that the VOH of the XB1 PCB is in the dead-manās land of the Remoraās drivers in which case a simple 1k pull up resistor to the proper VIH should fix that up nicely.