Ok… I bee watching this thread since it started. I am new here… I been workin on this thing all day. Everything works in menu and another game except RT but LT registers as RT… When i try to test on KI, A,B,RT,LT, dont work. Like its not mapped. When i try to map it in options,it just starts flippin out… And im confused as to what the resistors are for and where to put them. Its not like the trigger trick on 360? Plz help 
I really wanted to use all 8 buttons but at this point,id be cool with 6 but dunno how to disable them. Just like Brute
I think we could use some revision on the trigger issue. I’m cool with a six-button layout, but I’ll feel complete knowing each button is being used in the correct arcade arrangement.
Oh ya… BTW. Im doin a single pad hack on a custom stick. All i need help with is these — ---- triggers!!! LOL
I decided to try this out today and so far so good for my first time. I’m not going to bother with the triggers so I wired up everything on the controller board except the triggers. I had to work at getting the solder to stick to the small contacts at times but that’s only because I didn’t scrape enough, better safe than sorry. I used the glue like recommended by others and it holds everything together nice. So far everything I tested works so hopefully everything else goes as good.
I was originally going to add the board to my q4raf 3 in 1 but I don’t want to mess with that stick. It’s all nicely wired so I just decided to get an old TE off ebay to throw it in. I’m confident everything will go smooth. Now I jst need to find a way to keep it neat.
Anyone looking to try to do this should go for it. I went off the summarized tutorial on page 8 and it worked perfectly for me so far. Thanks for the info.
This tread is great and showed me alot. Now if i can just get these triggers!!! HaHa. Not funny though
For the people needing help with something, it’d be a lot easier for us to help you if you took pictures of your setup. You can try to explain it for days but pictures are a lot easier to identify problems with.
ChaoticMonk’s guide already explains how to get triggers working.
wired everything up, buttons work, dpad seems to be working but getting constant up input from left analog cube. I tested to make sure the analog was neutral before hot gluing into place, removed the glue and i can get the analog to respond in different directions but the up is still constant. I saw that Chaotic Monk had similar issue and resolved it with resistors…can i use the same method but without removing the analog cube?
So close…
Try it, what you have to lose.
Sometimes a circuit or a signal needs whats called a PULL UP RESISTOR.
Everything seems to b ok now except for the fact that i broke the left trigger joint from moving things around to test and i cant see a trace. Can anybody help answer what the resistor dose on this type of trigger? My resister stopped me from getting any signal. Id upload pix but dunno how
Been keeping an eye on this thread for a while, I don’t even have a system to test on, but I’ve got a query regarding the resistors.
How many “watts” are needed for the resistors? I’ve been seeing 1/2 watt, 1/4 watt etc and was wondering if it would matter.
Also when wiring the the triggers, is it just a matter of putting the resistor in between the wire? ie there’s no inverting the triggers like the old mad catz controllers for the xbox 360?
Also regarding the resistors for the D+/-, is that only to be used if you want to hard wire a cable to the pcb or put it on a physical switch (do the IMP v1 or v2’s work on this?) I’m guessing if those points aren’t used, we can simply put a usb cable to a neutrik passthrough socket?
I’m sure I also read somewhere in the thread that the IR LEDs don’t need to have visibility to the Kinect right? ie. we can hide the XBOX1 pcb anywhere in the stick?
Sorry for all the questions, just wanting to make sure everything is a go before doing the mod, I’m looking at adding this functionality to my dual modded TE.
Too bad the PS4 pcb looks like a major pita to do, a quad mod would be pretty cool, but we don’t all have the knowledge and skills as gummo 
Thanks in advance
Note, I’ve yet to build one of these (or mod any stick for that matter) so my answers are a mix of my education in EE and thorough reading of the past 13 pages of this thread.
I would personally use 1/4 watt. A 1/4W 100 resistor (for the triggers) can draw a continuous 50mA at it’s limit. With VCC set to 5V, dropping all that voltage across 100ohm is exactly 50mA but you’re not going to be holding down the button continuously but rather in short bursts. Thinking out loud though, perhaps a 120ohm 1/4W resistor would be a better value to use for the triggers as that would guarantee you can only draw ~42mA if the button gets stuck and an extra 20 ohms should be negligible to get the hall-effect transducer to fire (although one never knows until they try.)
Put each resistor inline, how you do this is up to you but I suggest: PCB Pin --> Wire --> Resistor --> Wire --> Stick
The only thing you need to know is that if you hook up to the XB1 PCB via it’s miniUSB port, you don’t have to worry about the D+/D- pins nor the necessary 33ohm inline resistors. Whatever is on the other side of that miniUSB is moot.
Correct, no line of sight necessary.
Ok, so now that I gave some answers, I would appreciate a few to some of my questions before I take the padhack plunge =)
[list]
[]My XB1 is behind a closed cabinet so a must-have feature for me would be wireless capability. I imagine the only thing necessary to get this work in a reliable manner is to affix a rechargeable battery. I was thinking on buying the Wireless controller with the play-and-charge kit and then hot-gluing the battery to the PCB making sure the terminals have a good connection. Is there a better approach?
[]I’ve seen it mentioned a few times but I too am curious why nobody is soldering to the header pins on the top PCB, they don’t look that close together. Although I guess they might seem close if you’re using some really thick wire like 22-24AWG which seems like way overkill for this low current application as 24AWG can carry 3.5Amps for chassis wiring! I would say even 32 AWG would be fine which is rated to about 500mA.
[]I’ve never owned a fight stick before but I want it to have quality parts so I’m curious what’s fightstick out there hits the mark for the best bang/buck ratio? I’ve heard good things about the SFxT fightstick, would this be a good one to gut for a dedicated XB1 mod?
[]Speaking of Madcatz sticks with terminal blocks. Why are people suggesting to solder to the underside of the terminal block rather than using the existing harness wires? Again, I’ve never owned a stick but surely there must be a harness that connects the buttons and the stick to the original PCB. Cant you just clip the harness header that was going to the original PCB and separate the wires to solder to the XB1 PCB (preferably to the header pins?)
I know its often hard to judge tone in a forum post so just in case it came out wrong, in no way shape or form am I trying to be/act elitist; I’m just curious why some design choices have been made over others.
Thanks!
The cleaner way to do it would to be dremel out the battery part of the case and wire it up as a battery holder for the PCB using wire so you could secure the battery without hot glue, but hot gluing it on would work.
They’re really close together. The contact pads and bumper points are all super easy to pick up.
Anything with Sanwa/Seimitsu parts, or I guess the Hori Hayabusa components are nice too. [This thread is the best place to contemplate stick purchases.](What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting
Because it’s easy to do, keeps your existing TE PCB in play for dual modding, and you get use the wire you prefer when pad hacking the XB1 board.
Here is my dual modded HRAP3 PS3/XONE
I had it modded with a 360 mcz fightpad using terminal strips, so I just had to remove the 360 pad from the terminal strips and hook up the XONE pad. Pretty happy I used terminal strips all those years ago.
It has a DPDT switch, but I am currently just using two usb cables. I haven’t yet secured the wiring or analog sticks with glue.
It has 7 working buttons, I managed to wreck the RT connector when changing my incorrect resistors mentioned above. If anyone knows an alternate connection point for RT, let me know.
I know you guys love doing this kind of stuff but an alternative was posted in main KI thread not too long ago.
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141912&s=d5960cdd59fcc15ec159e09356d7c730
youtu.be/WdVOSpmUx9g
It looks like it lags to my naked eye. If you look at 4:40 min in the video on that page, you see him test it out on a TE. It looks like lag to me but i don’t know if its from the adapter or the monitor he is using. Plus that adapter requires the use of a wired XBO pad to bypass the security, so you better off just hacking the pad.
^
Im getting one tomorrow so ill post my findings after i spend some time with it
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I had this fear too, and never came across something clear regarding this in this topic, so I fell less lonely now !