Here is a link that shows Gummowned’s work for a XBO/PS4/360 stick: http://www.eventhubs.com/news/2013/nov/23/first-its-kind-gummowned-creates-triple-modded-xbox-one-ps4-xbox-360-joystick/
Does the ps4 even have wired controllers out? Or at the very least “act” wired when plugged into Isbn.
Edit: fuck autocorrect on this fucking tablet. Not Isbn, usb.
i’m going to have to try that now. I’ll let you guys know if the controller acts “wired” when plugged in.
Actually using only I external USB cable is pretty standard. I dual modded PS3 and Xbox 360 alot and only needed 2 cord. I did a tri-mod (PS3, X360 and Dreamcast) with only 1 port going out for cables.
Its how people are using the PS4 pad on the PC
Its how people are using the PS4 pad on the PC
[/quote]
Oh really, so is that the new thing this gen since xbones pad does the same or did the ps3 controller do the same last gen?
PS3 pad worked through USB or Bluetooth on PC
I know about the standard method as well as I have been dual modding sticks as well for the past 4 years and before that for multiple consoles I would use a db15 port with detachable cables. The only reason I made my comment was because gummownned mentioned doing something pretty standard (accessing the data lines directly from the XBO pad pcb) and encountering an unusual problem that was causing his internet connection to cut in and out. His solution was to use a 33 ohm resistor. I was only asking if anyone had tried the alternative standard route for single usb line and encountered any unexpected unusual problems (Mainly, I am concerned with the XBO getting power and acting wirelessly while the ps360+ pcb is in use.)
Been testing till late last night and now have done testing for 4 hours.
Pulled the xone pcb out of the fightstick, fightstick got back to work normal on x360
Connected xone pcb to xone and it’s still input UP
Checked al connections on grounding, no grounding on any so it must be the analog stick.
Desoldered transistor, same problem, soldered new transistors, same problem.
Desoldered d-pad wires, same problem…
Could mounting a higher ohm transistor give a solution maybe ?
Going nuts here 
Pics :
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=BCBD5CEF8686960A!277
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=BCBD5CEF8686960A!291
Mounted two 10k potmeters where the analog up/down switch used to be installed.
I can adjust them, bit its either UP or DOWN, theres no neutral between.
Think i give up, probably ruined the pcb i guess…
Ok desoldered every connection, clean pcb except resistors on the analog.
Wanted to be sure that it’s the analog part that gives error and started BF4.
Now i see that it is the d-pad section that inputs either UP or Down.
Checked to see if i see something strange around the d-pad area but couldn’t find any.
All nice and clean and disfunctional…
Finished up last night and everything worked great. The only issue I had was I had the Left & Right triggers reversed and the same issue with the LB & RB. Fixed that and now It’s 100% functional. Thank all of you for this very helpful and informative thread. Couldn’t of done it without you SRK’ers. Mine was a simple Xbone pad hack not a dual mod. I am more than willing to help out anyone who is attempting this. I will also provide my cell number just to make it easier to communicate.
THANKS.
Tried my hand at one of these, wasn’t that bad!
Did this for my customer, of all the pics I took this was the one that was the least blurry. I added a button for home afterwards since the panel didn’t have a space for the button. I just soldered directly to the microswitch tabs instead of doing QDs, so blobs of solder may make it a bit uglier but the user i did this for was fine with not having QD tabs.
http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy312/Z3N1TH/Arcade%20Stick%20Mod%20Commissions/IMG_5397_zpsb06f9629.jpg
Nice work. Mine is not good looking but boy it sure as hell feels sweet.
Finished mine today and played a couple round of KI with my bro. My god does the inside of my Q4 look terrible. One tip for anyone thinking of doing this. USE FLUX. I decided to go without it and had a hard time. Thank you to everyone adding info to this thread
would like to see pics of your dpads. also have you confirmed this is only an issue on the dpad of the xbone pad? is your TE working fine now?
Just throwing this out here, but if anyone who has attempted this and ruined the pad by lifting traces or something to the point it’s unfixable, shoot me a PM I might have a use for it.
Did you run into any issues while soldering the pad? did you do anything with the pins or use different points/different ground?
Just for the sake of covering all bases, does the problem still occur if you solder the analog sticks back in place?
Just to clarify, my brother’s helping me out on this and we’re examining the diagrams and he’s asking me if we are just doing this as an Xbox One only stick: Do we need to worry about the VCC or is it just the buttons, d-Pad and ground that we need. Bit confused over this. Any help greatly appreciated, thread is awesome as is but just want to double check before we take the plunge.
If its only going to an XBO stick, just solder to the dpad, button, trigger contacts and one ground( will need 10k ohm resistors for the triggers) . Then just hook up the micro usb cable, you don’t need to worry about the vcc or data lines.