Couldn’t you just have two female to female passthroughs. Solder a shorter cable to vs vsb and a short micro to usb . Then just plug into which one you’re using. Edit: I guess your just looking to have 2 female ended usb cables and plug into either. Less work your way
You need a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) switch, or a v2 Imp.
Having a multiple USB ports/ female cable ends isn’t always better/cheaper as you still need to connect power to power, ground to ground on all the PCBs.
Having a DPDT switch or 2v IMP does is switches on or off which PCB gets Data (Data + and Data - ) via the USB cable.
Just a quick question. As spares, I have a PS360+ board, an IMP board and an xbox one pad pcb. I understand the business of connecting the power lines and grounds from the PS360+ board to the xbox one pad pcb. If I want to use one USB cable for all 3 systems by utilizing the imp board, what do I specifically need to do on the xbox one pad pcb? My issue I guess is with the data lines and the previous mention of using resistors. My goal is to use a depressed guide button to select for the xbox one pad, if the guide button is not depressed during plugin then the ps360+ auto detects which system (360 or ps3) is plugged in. Can anyone offer some advice.
By the way the Imp is the original version 1. I don’t know if that will make a difference.
Just follow the documention from the original Imp v1. The Imp v1 was made so that it toggles between two USB inputs depending on button-press (not sure the exact sequence there, but you get the idea); whereas the Imp v2 was designed to auto-detect and switch between an MC Cthulhu and an Xbox 360 PCB, but can also be used as per the v1’s functionality (hold-a-button-on-plugin-to-switch).
Following the Imp v1’s instructions, treat the PS360+ as USB input #1, and the XBO PCB as USB #2, and you should be fine from there. Apparently, if you’re not using the MicroUSB plug on the XBO controller PCB, you need to add some resistors to the D+ and D- lines if you’re soldering directly to the board.
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On a completely unrelated note: would anyone be able to give me the dimensions of the two-PCB setup, assuming all removable components have been desoldered and removed (analog sticks, triggers, LB/RB micro-tact-switches, etc)? I wanna know if I can fit one of these things in the project boxes that I already use.
Ok got my pad soldered and tested.
It keeps pressing right-up.
So i desoldered the analog stick and added 4 10k ohm resistors.
Test again and it’s still pressing right-up.
Checked the resistors, they are 10k ohm.
Got my pad connected to xbox one with the play&charge cable, testing buttons with the groundcable, all buttons do fine.
What do i overlook here ?
sounds like you grounded your up or right signal. Pics would be helpful
Made some pics from d-pad
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=BCBD5CEF8686960A!276
and resitors instead of analog stick
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=BCBD5CEF8686960A!277
Checked up and right d-pad buttons with voltmeter, they dont contact ground.
Must be something with the analog stick section…
10k Resistors mounted give 5.8k ohm each (from center to side)
Hmmm strange, just connected the pad again and now it works perfect ?!
Seems like some button cables touched each other ? Strange, cant lay my finger on it.
Well, now mounting it in the fightstick and cross my fingers it keeps working as it does now.
are you dual modded? it could have come in contact on the other console’s pcb side
Thinking out loud here, so please correct me if I am wrong. If you want to use one usb cable for multiple pcbs using a switch/board, you have two options. After connecting their vcc and grounds you could:
1: Connect the D+ and D- lines of each pad to the switch/board. You can access these data lines on the XBO pad pcb by directly soldering on to the XBO pcb. If you do it this way, you need to use 33 ohm resistors on the data lines.
or
2: Connect a micro usb line to the XBO pad pcb and cut the end that is not connected to pad. This will give you access to the power line, ground, D+ and D- lines. The added advantage here is two-fold. First, that you don’t have to solder directly to the XBO pad pcb to have access to the power, ground and data lines and second that you don’t need to use resistors on the Data lines.
Is this thinking correct?
Thinking out loud here, so please correct me if I am wrong. If you want to use one usb cable for multiple pcbs using a switch/board, you have two options. After connecting their vcc and grounds you could:
1: Connect the D+ and D- lines of each pad to the switch/board. You can access these data lines on the XBO pad pcb by directly soldering on to the XBO pcb. If you do it this way, you need to use 33 ohm resistors on the data lines.
or
2: Connect a micro usb line to the XBO pad pcb and cut the end that is not connected to pad. This will give you access to the power line, ground, D+ and D- lines. The added advantage here is two-fold. First, that you don’t have to solder directly to the XBO pad pcb to have access to the power, ground and data lines and second that you don’t need to use resistors on the Data lines.
Is this thinking correct?
Correct. Welcome to about 5 pages ago lol
Correct. Welcome to about 5 pages ago lol
Well to be honest, most of the last couple of pages have been lots of examples where people have done multiple pcbs with 2 usb lines. No one has shown an example of multiple pcbs with one usb cable and all the talk about doing so has been speculation. Only Gummown mentioned doing so and made mention of how he ran into problems and gave a possible solution. I was only trying to gather the information relevant to the task in one post. I apologize if I have cluttered this thread.
either way if you use one usb cable it is best to use a cable to go straight into the xb1 pad and cut/strip it and use the USB attacked to a DPDT switch or an imp. Hope that helps
Can someone post the link to the ps4 padhack?
i don’t believe there is one
I wanted to tackle the pad hack myself but I really don’t have the time to take it on right now. Is anyone here on SRK offering pad hack service? Preferably somebody from NY but not mandatory. I have a q4raf 3 in 1 that I’d like to add Xbox one support to without losing functionality with other systems. I have the Xbox one controller to supply so if anyone is interested in helping me out let me know.
Id do it if its a “standard” pad. if anyone has any information about xbone pad hax, share it I guess.
problem is I have no way to test it unless it works for PC then I can just check it…
are you dual modded? it could have come in contact on the other console’s pcb side
Yes i did a dual mode.
But i tested with only the joypad, outside the fightstick.
Just after soldering the wires, to see if al the buttons work, wich they do.
As i mentioned before, i cheked the controller with my vmeter and connected again, after that it worked flawless so i started mounting it in my fightstick.
Had finished my build and started the xbox one flawless with a push on the madcatz home button
Had played 5 minutes without a problem and then, out of nowhere, Jago strated jumping backward again.
If i press down it wil sometimes stay down, this is driving me crazy
Looks like it gets in a loop or something ?
In Killer Instinct i can see that upright is pressed continous, there’s just one arrow pointing in that direction, not a lot of arrows getting in a row, just one arrow so button is pressed continous.
If someone got a clue, please let me know.
double check that your wires are not touching ground
Also, double check that your resistors aren’t getting moved and touching something they shouldn’t (I suspect the analog part to be the issue)
I have been following this thread pretty close, as I await for my TE2. Please forgive me if I somewhere missed this but has any uploaded a video of the mod being done? I appreciate pics and all but I am far more visual learner and have never modded a stick before nor have any experience soldering but I think if I saw it in a video I could determine if I wanted to try.I know this is probably asking a lot (unless a video is already out there and if so forgive me). Thanks guys for all you have done.
So I have a TE Kitty in my 360 VS stick and also a Remora w/ Arc Eye 3s. Does anyone know what board I would need to solder the X1 PCB(s) too? I really want to do this, but I’m not sure where to start due to already having mods inside. Any information would be extremely appreciated.