Wish I saw this earlier. I’m one of those new comers ripping a contact point. Lol.
Gonna go to Frys today. Is there a particular brand or do the have the same type of wire just different sizes?
Also any recommendations on how to properly solder onto a pin since my x is out I have to do it this way and don’t want to mess it up
On either side of the pin headers you’ll see metal ‘legs’ sticking out. Just solder one of the wires to the leg for X button and your done. Be careful not to accidentally solder to more than one leg (its a tight space). Also,be careful when getting close to the black plastic of the header cause the solder iron is hot enough to melt it causing it to deform and potentially make it to where the other end won’t connect to it.
Alternatively you could scrape the trace (the black line coming out of where you originally soldered to). Scrape very lightly till you see the shiny surface then solder to it.
PS: I used wire from an Ethernet cable. Not the greatest by any means but did the trick.
Didn’t know this! updated the guide. Thanks for sharing 
As others have said, it is easier to make a dedicated xbone stick than to dual mod. But something to keep in mind, the TE has a terminal block that all the buttons connect to which you can pull out and solder to the bottom of (see the thing on the left in the pic below).
You’d still need solder the directions, VCC and ground to the original 360 PCB though then run a separate usb cable for xbone
constant random buttons or every once in a while? specific buttons or pretty much all?
I didn’t notice anything in the pics. Might have to just go ahead and pull it out and double check the connection.
[quote=“ChaoticMonk, post:422, topic:164985”]
On either side of the pin headers you’ll see metal ‘legs’ sticking out. Just solder one of the wires to the leg for X button and your done. Be careful not to accidentally solder to more than one leg (its a tight space). Also,be careful when getting close to the black plastic of the header cause the solder iron is hot enough to melt it causing it to deform and potentially make it to where the other end won’t connect to it.
Alternatively you could scrape the trace (the black line coming out of where you originally soldered to). Scrape very lightly till you see the shiny surface then solder to it.
PS: I used wire from an Ethernet cable. Not the greatest by any means but did the trick.
I might go with the alternative first since it seems safer. The black line is the one leading towards the bottom of the x button correct? Or do you mean the one that loops in a circle?
Correct, the one coming out of where you originally soldered to.
Awesome. Thanks for you all help man I really appreciate it. Gonna try and finish up later today and see how it goes
If my daughter allows it, I should have this finished and connected to a switch later today.
http://i.imgur.com/LK6VWMM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/doax3mM.jpg
Can I ask why everyone is using 10 ohm on the analogs instead of like 1k-10k?
at first it was directional inputs inputting all sorts of directions back to back, after moving some wires that stopped. I can for the most part navigate around but pressing a button seems to input more than just one. Which makes selecting things wonky. I’m just going to shorten the wires and actually solder the other ends to the MC as opposed to using the screw down terminals. I should have done it that way in the first place, but I really wanted to get back to ki.
Sorry bro, I should have posted thoughts on radioshack wire earlier.
I recommend you get at the thickest the 24 ga wire this time around. Please don’t get 22ga again even though Fry’s 22 is better than radioshacks 22, I still think it is too thick for padhacks.(remember lower number means thicker wire)
Do like chaotic monk said, however if for some reason you cant solder to the header pin and decide to scrape the trace, do not scrape close to where the contact came off or you will justkeep lifting the trace. Instead go somewhere in the middle of the trace and scrape.
Header pins are easy to solder to though so you should not have problems.
Cos we don’t know better? lol
I don’t know how it works but Gummo said ‘fine to use 10ohm’. I had 8.5 so I used that
Okay so here is deal. After connecting the 33 ohm resistors to the data contacts, the Xbone pad works :). However, it only works with the new plug and play usb cord that came with the xbone controller. When I connect the old TE USB to the system, the board powers up (because I see the xbone pad light up, but im not getting any inputs. Why is this? Keep in mind that I have the old TE USB wired to the xbone pad. Could this be because of the 3.0 USB on the xbone? Thanks everyone I can finally see day light.
I said 10k ohm in my post. The k was not some typo. 10k ohm = 10,000 ohm
Hey everybody i can’t say thank you enuf for your effort on this! ive been wanting to do a stick mod like this for a while and you guys seem like a great community! ive looked at everything and i understand all of it but the only thing i dont understand is what VCC stands for and what its used for
Strictly speaking it means Voltage at Common Connector.
Think of it simply as where you would access power from, such as the red wire on a USB cable (though it’s always best to double check with a multimeter)
Anyone in Europe offering padhack service? Id probably fuck it up
Ouch, my mistake 
guide updated, very sorry.
What am I opening myself up for by leaving using 8.2?
If you’re using 1/4W resistors you’re likely fine, maybe feel them to see if they are warm after some time powered though.
Worst case scenario each resistor could be dropping nearly that power (assuming 3.3v vcc and 10 ohm), but likely not that much due to other stuff on the line.
You can check by measuring the voltage on them. V^2/R = P, they are equal so it should be the same on both.
I’d still swap for higher resistance when you can to be safe though.
Question. If we are using a miniusb cable to connect the xbone pad to the console why do we need to place a resistor on the D+ and D- lines?
You don’t. That part of the guide is for people who are bypassing the port. Most common reason would be making multiple pcbs run through 1 cable
Thanks. That must mean I wired something wrong because when I plug up the old USB which I wired to the xbone PCB the light on the PCB comes on but no inputs go through. When I plugged the mini USB into the xbone pad inputs were going through.