Ok, pcb is in the stick and all the buttons work fine but having an issue with remora lighting up LT and RT.
My buttons are soldered underneath a brawl stick QD terminal (the one that has all the buttons labeled) and then remora connects to them via the QDs.
After some testing I’ve determined the issue lies there caus whatever button I connect to the RT or LT post will light up.
Note button inputs are not impacted, just the LEDs.
EDIT: I forgot to mention, I have not connected anything to ground, kill ground and no QDs are using the ground posts.
This is the very last step in my mod. Help me out please
I promise to write up a guide and consolidate the main points from this thread
I think that I checked out some DP3T datasheets awhile ago and they dont switch in the way that you need them to for this to work. However I would be happily proven wrong if you or anyone have the datasheets of a model that would do it.
Alright guys, finally got this thing done. Everything works perfect, I didn’t go for the triggers because I had just gotten back home from radioshack when I saw the solution and just wanted to finish.
Thanks everyone involved in this thread for all the help and sharing your information. ChaoticMonk I owe you my LB. I tried soldering it in a few places but the trace kept coming up so I ended up soldering it directly to the pin like you advised. Thanks to ed1371 for helping me out also when I burned up some connections and taught me a couple things about scraping a trace and using my meter.
It was so much fun working on this, and now I can finally play KI the way it was meant to be played.
Thanks for the Trigger mods. Worked perfect. I will do this to all my other sticks tomorrow!!
Also Good news.
The XBOX home button from teh controller fits almost perfect into the PS3 madcatz home button.
You have to shave a bit on a nub and cut the plunger down a bit. But looks awesome.
I used the Xbox board with it as I am going to light up the 1-4 player leds to light the Xbox One button.
Any clue what might be? I got rid of the brawlstick QD strip. Now wire goes from pad directly to remora and on to the buttons via remora cables.
It only happens with the triggers though
Thanks so much for the help guys. After staring at Glory’s picture and comparing it to my stick I think I understand. I’ll probably try this out next week.
Oh really? I thought you needed it for B button? if not then screw the top board, I’m struggling to find room in my hori SCV as it is anyway (360 stock pcb+cerberus+remora)
Also, if I can ignore the top board then won’t have to worry about removing the analog joystick ‘cubes’
EDIT:
I had the boards mixed up, now I see what you mean about getting rid of the top board since everything is being fed to it via the headers
Any advice on how to remove the analog joystick ‘cubes’? sorry for all the questions.
am I reading this right?
SNIPPED
Probably should have verified this myself. It is wrong 100%. Ended up frying the board because of this. The power looks to be supplied from J6.
That image (in post above) needs to be removed from the entire topic no matter whom posted it.
This is the exact reason I mentioned to a friend attempting an XBone padhack to make sure the diagram was indeed correct with a multimeter before attempting it.
Removed from original post (LVNeptune, can you do the same from the quote please?)
If you read the post though, I was asking if it was right or wrong =/
You guys make it so much more complicated than it needs to be, why don’t you just leave the pcb in tact and use the button pad points? I mean, is it imperative that you get the PCB down to as little bit of wafer as possible? I mean, I understand the modding initiative to get things as tidy as possible, i really do, but it’s nuts to do it without verification. Xb1 pads are maaaad expensive!
Accidentally ruining a perfectly good PCB, it comes with the territory. Especially with next gen PCBs that have little or no documentation on them.
At this point in the game, even a failure is a win. You learn what you can and can not do, you take note and document so yourself and the community is achieving victory even in a failed pad hack.
I am sure when alot of the more pro modders started they ruined and scrap many good PCBs in there quest to be the best,
like no one ever was.
To mod them is my real test,
To wire them is my cause.
I will travel across the Web,
Searching far and wide.
Teach modders to understand,
The power that’s inside.
(Gotta dual-mod em all)
It’s you and me I know it’s my destiny
Accidentally ruining a perfectly good PCB, it comes with the territory. Especially with next gen PCBs that have little or no documentation on them.
At this point in the game, even a failure is a win. You learn what you can and can not do, you take note and document so yourself and the community is achieving victory even in a failed pad hack.
I am sure when alot of the more pro modders started they ruined and scrap many good PCBs in there quest to be the best,
like no one ever was.
To mod them is my real test,
To wire them is my cause.
I will travel across the Web,
Searching far and wide.
Teach modders to understand,
The power that’s inside.
(Gotta dual-mod em all)
It’s you and me I know it’s my destiny
Nice dude. I’m redoing mine later today. I wouldn’t have used Cat5 wire myself as it is too dense and can pull pads off easily. I didn’t care about the XB360 anymore so I just cut the wires going to the PCB.
Extremely neat wiring
nothing crimped… always soldered
PCB secured so it will never move around
If I have a choice between easy and complicated… I am taking complicated every time. It has always resulted in something to be proud of.
