Wouldn’t I still need to run the VCC so the XB1 board is connected to power when using one of the other PCB’s? That is if I went the route of accessing the buttons through the MC
Just to recap, my plan is to connect the XB1 button signals and 1 ground to the corresponding screw down terminals on the MC. Then provided I wire the MC’s VCC to the XB1’s and run a micro USB cable out I should be good to go? This won’t create a conflict anywhere? Forgive all the questions, I’m incredibly confident in execution and can mod anything off a guide, however when it comes to fully understanding electronics I’m much less knowledgeable than I’d like to be. Thanks for all your help!
Hey guys! First off - thanks so much for all the fantastic information in this thread. I don’t have any experience with stick modding but I’ve been following along and in addition to reading all of this must have watched 30 different how to solder videos to build up some confidence. I’ve got an old original SF4 TE stick with a damaged pcb that is just screaming to be converted to an Xbox 1 stick. Everything is crystal clear to me with 1 exception and I was hoping to get that cleared up before I start cracking open Xbox 1 controllers.
Regarding the home button - it’s clear what it needs to be connected to on the Xbox One PCB… but on the actual TE stick itself - how do I go about wiring it? On the original TE stick it’s connected to a separate Madcatz PCB and I’m at a bit of a loss regarding how to connect it to the Xbox One PCB. I could easily connect the home button to one of the extra (7th or 8th) buttons on the stick but that’s really just asking for trouble. I would much rather use the original home button if at all possible. Any information or links to other threads with information on how to do this would be greatly appreciated.
Here’s what I’m looking at as far as the home button on my stick is concerned. Yes I know it’s dusty… It may have been shoved in the closet for a while once the original PCB started messing up and registering normal button presses as pressing the back button in addition to the actual button that was being pressed.
So I just solder a wire from the XGUILD point to the Xbox One PCB Home and I would I also need to solder another wire from the GND section of it to the Ground Daisy chain for the buttons? (Which will eventually connect to the Ground section on the Xbox One PCB?)
Is that correct? If so then that’s much easier than what I was fearing. Should I just completely disconnect all the wires currently coming out of it then? And solder from the top?
The resistor is on the other side of the wire. My stick is closed up right now and I am leaving. The transistor you mention is the hall effect sensor. Here is a quick sketch of it. And of course when you wire the other trigger be sure to use the correct pin of the hall effect.
Are you dual modding or are you ripping out the xbox portion of that stick?
in either case, you solder from each signal on the xbone pad to the respective pin/terminal strip spot, and only one ground going to either the terminal strip or to the turbo panel spot designated GND.
Now you’ve got me doubting myself again! I’m going to be completely ripping the xbox portion out of the stick since it’s malfunctioning anyways. I’m not 100% clear on what is needed for the ground wires which means it’s time for MS paint diagram time.
Should I be wiring this like option A, option B, or am I way off base and it should be the mysterious option C? Thanks so much for the help guys. I really appreciate it.
It’s pretty easy, you solder the spot that says xguide and the gnd. Connect the GND to any ground on the pad, or in my case I just chose a random ground on the TE QD strip. I took out the LT and RT so I just used the common ground there. I posted a picture last night it should be on page 5
@Aabra
Either option works.
Option A you’d have to chain your ground from the XBone controller
Option B you’d have a long ground cable you’d have to route around the joystick area and come up where the buttons are
Option C (what I would do)
Use the existing 360 quick disconnect terminal and solder the XBone buttons (including a ground) to the bottom of it. 1 side is ground and 1 side is signal (obvious when you look at the traces). Then you can continue to use your existing quick disconnect wires that have a dedicated 1 ground and 1 signal per button instead of having to daisy chain the ground.