This mod is easy enough with the solder points on page 3 and general knowledge of padhacking, did one today.
Wouldn’t advise people who have only done easy mods do it though, you’ll need to practice padhacks on something cheaper than a xbone pad 
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I got my triggers to work by connecting a 100 ohm resistor to the output of the ratiometric hall effect. Then connect the other end to the button on your stick. Here is the best picture I could get of it.
I plan on dropping one in to my MC/360/ImpV2 RJ45 stick. However working with 3 PCBs has raised some questions. Should I connect the XB1 pad to the MC or the 360 pcb? Same question for VCC etc. (I don’t need triggers, 6 button stick)
You need a way to route the data to the correct PCB. From what I understand, Imp is figuring out which pcb to send to (MC or 360) but I don’t know if imp has a way to output to a 3rd channel (XB1) so you may need to install a switch after Imp to determine where data and power should flow to. Either that or maybe another Imp? lol
I think the ImpV2 is able to handle all 3 if I read correctly earlier. Though it is possible that an unmentioned switcher was used. Gummo mentioned that he’s done this mod already. Oh wise Gummo, can you shed some light on this particular setup?
The imp can only switch between 2 consoles which is why it only accepts data lines from two different systems.
As for the mod you can connect the xbone to either pad because everything will be connected anyway. Connect half the signals to the mc and half to the 360 pad, doesnt matter they are all common gnd.
The challenge would be switching between each system. I personally no longer use imps and only mess with dpdt switches.
If I am of mistaken this mod can be done with 2 dpdt switches.
The first switch switches between the first system of choice and the 2nd dpdt. The 2nd dpdt the switches between the other 2 systems. I’ll draw a diagram later to see if my assumptions are correct.
Thanks for the feedback. I’ll probably run the signals to the actual screw terminals on the MC, just to help keep things organised and clean. I’d prefer not to go the route of a dpdt switch, but if that’s whats required I’ll make it work. Hopefully Gummo can toss his method into the ring as well.
Ya, unless Gummo has some circuit magic (very possible lol) you’ll need some way to switch (be it a switch, another imp or a separate usb cable, etc.).
Gummo did mention though:
Here is a quick diagram.
http://i1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc379/sikwidit69/3systemsetup.png
For this method all controllers obviously need to communicate with their systems via usb d+ and d- lines.
The only problem I can see with this is if one of the controllers communicates via wireless as well. For example the xbone controller. I think removing the internal battery or whatnot would solve that problem.
Edit: actually it is already being powered because all the controllers are powered at the same time. so as long as it cant communicate at the same time as the others it should be fine. I would have to get an xbone controller to be sure.
So it looks like he did go with the PDT switch route. I missed that in my first read. It sounds like it might just be less hassle to go with a 2nd USB cable. Assuming I go with that option I’d just need to tie in the 5V and the VCC to one of the existing pads correct?
I wish I was confident enough to try this on my own. I pretty much have all the tools, but I am just not 100% that I can do this.
No need. The existing usb cable would function the stick the way is dies now while the 2nd one would just work with xbone.
All you’d need to do is connect the pad to your buttons/stick and plug in a micro USB cable (FYI, toys r us are selling 6’ white ones for $2 while stocks last, if you don’t want to wait for shipping).
Only you can decide that but I will say, it’s one of the easier ones to do as long as you don’t rush.
Before I opted to try this I came to terms that there’s a chance is be losing out on $60 but decided that’s a price i was willing to pay for the experience
Hey there, I took the leap to do this as my first stick mod, and so far so good. I messed up a few connections soldering, but nothing I ciuldnt fix with some help from here. You got all the info you need in this thread and a great bunch of guys that are willing to help you along the way.
Sweet! Any one else able to test this?
If you’ve done any pad hacks before then there shouldn’t be any reason you can’t do it.
Gonna test it tonight. Well I’ll try but no XBONE to test it on lol
You have to start somewhere! If you’re just installing the XB1 pad into a stick by itself and don’t need the triggers its a relatively simple mod. However, if you’re worried about the cost, you can always do a practice run on a 360 pad. The process is VERY similar with scraping the buttons with an exacto and soldering to them and you can get a 360 pad relatively cheap. Once you have that working, just clip or desolder the wires and pop in the XB1 pad.
still looking for someone in socal to do this to a mas stick!
has one tried this hack on a Qanba Q2 stick?
Wouldn’t a single DP3T switch be more elegant? They’re dirt cheap on eBay.