Xbox One PadHack Thread - Calling the goons "Toodles, Gummowned, Phreak and You" Do it for the Kids

Chaotic monk posted one here

i can do it i suppose if you are in the nyc/long island area remember triggers still arenā€™t figured out though, and i use the whole pad, and keep most of the analog trigger cubes on

Whatā€™s to figure out? From what I am seeing, it looks like you just solder to the 2 points listed in the pics that have been posted like 5 timesā€¦

If you want triggers working, have me do it.

Sweet, thanks :smiley:

no, not the shoulder buttonsā€¦ the trigger solution has not been shared.

Has anyone found a way to mod a madcatz fight pad for use on xbox one?

Yep, my brother can only play on Madcatz fight pad nothing else. He is shit out of luck for a while?

That wonā€™t come for a long time, the xbone needs a new security chip, it was many years before the 360 security was cracked. Donā€™t hold your breath.

(Someone should make an announcement about this and sticky + lock it -_-ā€™ā€™)

Gummo, how much for the padhack?

It will come as soon as madcatz decides to create one. Madcatz is a licensed company so I believe that they can make a new madcatz pad as soon as they decide to do so. TBH I would think they would try to come out with a new fightpad soon just to capitalize off the newness that is KI like they are doing with their stick currently.

Project box that shit

hey guys, Iā€™m really at a loss as to what to do.
Iā€™ve removed the left analog ā€˜cubeā€™ from the board and desoldered my direction solders yet it still holds up when I plug it in :frowning:
Odd thing is (at least it seems odd), if I put my thumb over the anolog cubeā€™s solder points everything works fine then when I remove it it starts holding up again after a couple seconds or when I activate any direction.

Heres a vid of what it does.

Really hope someone can help me out. Got till tomorrow to get this mod done :frowning:
Thanks in advance, REALLY appreciate it :slight_smile:

You need to add resisters to the analog stick spots. By just removing the analog stick you leave the analog signal floating. Not sure what value youā€™ll need but you should be safe using 10k ohm resisters. Need a resister between each outer pin and inner pin.

I take it you did not neutralize the directions from the left analog? You solder into place where the old Analog stick was resistors that tricks the PCB thinking the Left analog is there and is in neutral.

The Analog stick works off two potentiometers, they measure the gradual up-down and left-right movement of the analog stick. Think of a potentiometer or pots for short like a volume knob on a older style TV or radio, actually the old volume knob on a older TV or radio is a potentiometer. A pot is a adjustable resistor, moving the knob increases or reduces how much power goes though. In the Analog stick, the 2 pots changes the voltage on the lines and tell the PCB how much of the X and Y axis you are moving that stick.

With the stick being completely centered; you need to find the neutral level (or as close as you can) resistance on each potentiometers or pot of the analog stick.

Slag Coin has a very good write up on this, the pictures are a example of a PS2 game pad but it applies to all modern analog thumb sticks.
http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html

this is why i said earlier its just easier to leave the cubes on and snip off of grey plastic sticksā€¦ Gummo, solder the cubes back on and be done with it.

like i said i donā€™t charge but Iā€™m not gonna start mailing a million things, and unless someone wants to share the trigger solution Iā€™m not going to buy pads to try different resistors, although i assume its probably almost the same as 360 solution.
The thing is though, i just finished the DOJO mission in KI, and i never once needed to use a button that was 3 p or k at once. Also, when i play, i press the 3 myself always since u probably wonā€™t have an arcade with a 3x button on it. Itā€™s better to learn by habit to live without 4th buttons, but thatā€™s just me.

If Gummo feels like sharing the solution that would be cool, iā€™m not gonna cut into his business or anything.

easy peasy

Thank you for the reply, really appreciate it. Please forgive my ignorance, based on the slagcoin page Darksakul posted, I would need to solder a resistor between 9-10, 9-8, 13-12 and 13-14, correct?

I had no idea :frowning:
For future reference, would I have been better off leaving it on? would I have needed to do anything to it?

1, 2, 7, 11 are ground. 3, 4, 5, 6 are L3 and R3

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_wiring.html#PCB_COMPONENTS_MODIFICATION_AND_REMOVAL

that should help