Cant wait! FYI Gummo listed most on the 2nd page
got it, I missed that, glad he was on⌠time to get to work on matching the connectors
A dream to mod? How so?
As Vicko pointed out, if we can get this down to a harness based mod⌠Sorry busy day late to the game this weekend.
Didnât that cause an issue for gummo? I donât know if I read right, but I think he used it wirelessly and had it disconnect his internet due to the way it bypasses the resistors
As Gummo pointed out the top board is essential but the components are not very elaborate except for two of them. Iâm not saying itâs a matter of just getting the connectors, but with a little ingenuity, it really shouldnât be that hard to make a harness for this, even if we had to do a little sub board adapter.
sorry guys, i went to the thread and didnt read any clear information.
is it confirmed that a wireless pad connected with the play and charge kit is a wired pad???
Yup. No syncing issues, no batteries required, no IR blaster required
Note though, if you plug it into something else, the pad gets power and home signal is activated it will connect wirelessly.
If you added a sub board with resistors you may not even need the top board anymore.
Or maybe you could make a harness that bridges the gap between the boards like a passthrough (bottom board>connector>harness>another connector>top board)
Thanks for clearing that up. Just for future reference, you figured out the button connection by measuring continuity between the button connection and what? Itâs hard to see in the pic if youâre right on top of the usb, or on one of the pins that connect to it.
So when u measure from usb connector ground to any ground on the pcb u have a closed circuit, and usb connector ground to anything that isnât ground will show open on the meter?
Yeah, you can confirm it by taking out your battery on your xbox one pad & using a micro usb & connect to your xbox one.
I got my buddy to pad hack one for me.
Wow, radio shack aint what it used to be anymore. thought theyâd have a solder sucker/pump.
Is removing the cube the only simple option to disable it?
Take pliers and clip off the grey plastic analog controller stick, thatâs what i did. I think removing parts you donât have to remove just risks ruining the pcb more than you have to. I plugged in my seimeitsu to my padhacked shiv TE last night and the heavy p and k buttons werenât working. Turns out the analog sticks were being pressed in opposite directions. So i clipped them off with clippers and left the cubes alone. No issues at all now.
On another note, has any been brave enough to start trying resistors on the triggers yet?
You mean chop off the grey pole that sticks out of the cube? not sure how that would solve it since its centered on both but still shorting out.
This is exactly what I will be undertaking. I donât suppose you have any pictures or could enlighten me on how to go about this. If I was just tossing this pad into a stick on its own itâd be no problem, however working with 3 PCbâs has me a little uncertain. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
i thought u were responding to dai who asked if you had to remove the cube
so for those quite not up to the task of doing this themselves , anybody on the east coast provide this service for a fee ( & if your near orlando, for a fee and a beer?. lol)
Iâm on the east coast (virginia), and taking mail ins.
Hmm, what pitch are those pin headers? Canât you just use a multitude of individual pin headers?
Hello, I hope this isnât too much to ask, but is it possible for someone to post a visual solder point guideline image of the pcbâs, just like the âtop board undersideâ image ? Thanks
I am simply touching the USB connector housing. It is grounded to the pcb.
The buttons will show about .466 resistance