I may have ONE blemished Gray over Black available in the next day or so. Normally, I wouldn’t be shipping it since I have ceased operations in preps for deployment (minus PFS3 shipping from Spencer in AL) but this takes up some room
Can you not put crown sticks into a normal Panzer 3? I am pretty sure I can put Crown sticks into my Atrox. Just wondering what the comparability issues are between your various Panzer models.
You will notice it is a square body with a large 35mm grommet that protrudes up. This must go through the panel of the stick. Additionally, its mounting is not compatible with the JLF mounting patterns.
Next, here’s the 303FK and similarly the 307FJ, picture also from paradise:
It has a straight shaft without the large grommet and features a mounting plate similar to the JLF. This will fit in the standard PFS3 or to be more precise the JLF compatible case. I think this is the same lever @SodNine uses in his Panzer 3.
Did you love the process for the LI Joe plexi art? It was printed direct to the acrylic overlay (NO PAPER!), white printed to the back, then laser aligned and cut. I can bring these in batches of 5 (minimum) to the shop for $74.95 each. Sound off on your thoughts, here are some pictures of the LI Joe one and the Tekken one I did for the upcoming T7 release:
MorphBox 1.0: Morpheus Wireless Receivers dual (tri) modded to the Brook Gaming Universal Fighting Board and MC Cthulhu… doubled. Now a customer can use his two wireless Panzer Fight Sticks with his ADCAP, PS4, PS3, PS2, PSOne, XBOX ONE, XBOX 360, Wii U, GameCube, SNES, NES, Dreamcast, Saturn, Genesis, and a few others!
@“Jasen Hicks” Man that dual stick design is so sick. I know you not selling the MC Cthulhu no more but if by chance you have one laying around please let me know. I would love to do something similar to this. I have a stick with both an RJ45 and USB port, and I would love to try this. I was about to replace my PS360+ with a brook board and the MC board would be perfect. I also like how you have the 20pin ribbon connecting to 3 boards. That’s so cool because on the stick I want to upgrade, I have clear buttons so from the looks of this I should be able to connect all three a Brook, MC and Kaimana board right? I have the space in my stick for it (it’s a nubytech 15th Anniversary stick)
@“Jasen Hicks” Thank you for the quick reply and thank you for keeping us safe. Much respect to you man. Just let me know when you’re back from deployment. Would love to pick up two of the MC and IDC’s from you.
Panzer Fight Stick 3: NG Video for your viewing pleasure. Better to shoot some video and show it off vs. just some static pictures.
It’s a Panzer Fight Stick twisted with all of the NEO-GEO layouts. Awhile back coin-ops in Japan did a similar thing but with a little less pizzazz using mech knobs to route signals around.
Features:
Panzer Fight Stick Construction
EZ Build System (plug and play assembly).
Digitally Printed to the case NEO-GEO Candy Cab inspired graphics.
DB15 output.
On the Fly Layout Modification. Simply twist the knob to get to the layout you want.
Three different layouts to fit anyone’s NEOGEO desires. LEDs change to show which buttons are activated. Colors match the NEO-GEO ABCD colors.
Sega inspired layout (its more comfortable in all forms of the NG layouts).
Sanwa Buttons and Lever. Seimitsu would work equally as well.
Concerned with latency? Don’t be. The O-scope tests show that this 16Mhz processor is polling for presses and outputting them (mapped of course) faster than you, me, or the hardware can identify.
It was a lot of fun working on this project and then working with some of the new camera gear I recently picked up. Enjoy!
Great news. Art over at Tek Innovations put up a special Jasen’s Customs section on his website! You can order custom plexis and artwork for the PFS3 and the MCZ panels I do direct from his website. No more emails!
Has anyone swapped the 4 pin header on the end of the Brook and soldered on the tabbed 4 pin header for the Panzer 3? I had a hell of a time removing the old header and now the new one is partially soldered into place but I cant get the solder to melt to push it through. Any tricks? I have a Hakko 936 soldering station and just a solder sucker but it doesn’t seem to work very well! Any suggestions are welcome!