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Try adding some fresh new solder to the joint first before starting to desolder.

Additionally, Heat on the part + tweezers to put pressure on the pins while you are heating it.

I already desoldered the old headerā€¦ but there is just enough old solder holding the new header from sitting flat on the boardā€¦ My solder sucker removed all it can and still some there. Its preventing the new header from sitting flat on the board and let me solder the pins properly

Dirty way? Stick the tip into the through hole.

Alternative? Take a pin or a solid core wire and stick it through the hole like you were going to solder it.

is the TES+ EZMod on hold until youā€™re back from deployment?

Its done and tested. All the cable manufacturing is done. Just need to get boards assembled and some Brook UFBs assembled for them before I can offer them. I may offer just the kit w/o the Brook UFB to get them started though and have Spencer ship them.

I wont be able to make a video since bandwidth is very limited and I canā€™t use my camera gear on the ship since its 1. not allowed and 2. at home.

Thanks for the update!

Iā€™m working with Arcade Shock and they might be able to solder the headers onto another Brook then I swap them the other new Brook I have sitting around. I still want to solder this one properly so when I get more time I will figure something out.

Im having trouble making the the gamecube RJ45 cord . I used a Offical GC cord off a silver controller & followed this diagram

**Gamecube: **




Gamecube pin    Purpose    RJ45 Pin
3              Ground      1
                            2
                            3
                            4
                            5
                            6
2              Data        7
1              VCC          8

Use the one from the Official Kitty diagram thread. Its linked on my page under Technical Info. I made one using some cheapy off the shelf extenders and it worked OK for me.

Forgive me if I come off as dumb, but Iā€™m not really well versed when it comes to this. Iā€™m having a bit of trouble figuring out what parts I need to replace for my Panzer. If anyone could point me in the right direction, Iā€™d be eternally grateful. I know Iā€™ll need a Neutrik USB Connector and along with it NKUSB Cable.

I was pretty sure there was an additional connector that I needed for the cable so that I can connect it to my PS4/PC. Am I wrong or am I good to go with just these two?

Cable in question

The Panzer already has a Neutrik USB installed in it, so you should just need the Type B side of that cable.

That cable is pretty pricey, so I donā€™t know that I would recommend using it unless you just like it.

What Panzer do you have? I might be able to provide more guidance if I understand what you are attempting to do. For example, if you ordered a Panzer 3: You dont need to order anything except buttons and a lever. Everything else is included.

Iā€™m not really sure which Panzer it is honestly, It was a gift from a friend long ago. Sorry if Iā€™m being really vague.

I dropped the controller some kind ago and the Neutrik USB Connector thats already in it ended up getting damaged. I basically just need to replace that and find a cable that connects from the stick to my PS4. I should be fine with just getting the Type B side of the cable?

OK. Got it. So, in that case:

Get this: https://arcadeshock.com/collections/frontpage/products/switchcraft-ehusbbabx-usb-b-to-a-eh-panel-mount-connector-with-4-40-screws

Thatā€™s a switch craft USB pass through. Fits in the same hole. Already Type B on the outside for the cable.

If you need a new cable, get this:

No need to get that fancy cable unless you really want to spend the cash.

Thanks Jasen ā€¦ Iā€™ll be looking that up

canā€™t find anything

@LLLLLFiVEL5L I just checked my working Gamecube cable with a multimeter, the pinout you posted is the same.

Is your connections solid in that RJ45 connector?

yup , made two with the kind thats goes through

Iā€™ll remake another one