www.JasensCustoms.com - Panzer Fight Sticks, ADCAP SuperGuns, EZ MODs, and more!

Wow, I didn’t realize you made cases for CPS3. Now I want one.

Mind you, I have to get my CPS3 setup working again; the last time I messed with it was almost 2 years ago, and I wasn’t aware of the SCSI2SD board working with it either.

It was more of a Plexi Base and Cover, and less of a case :slight_smile: It was pretty cool though. I have one in my FB photo gallery.

Hey Jasen, what’s the easiest way to remove the top plastic section and the install order of the big washers, small and the 2 black things for the aux VLX panel? Or is there a PDF on your site somewhere that I missed?

Based on the pic in the product listing, I think the order is:
aux panel > black thing > big washer > small washer > screw

That is the correct method.

To remove the existing panel ,you need to remove the back plastic housing of the stick. There are 4-6 screws on the bottom of the VLX that you remove and the assembly comes off. Flip it upside down and you will see 4 screws holding that plastic housing in place.

I highly recommend removing the cables from the stock PCB before removing the back plastic housing. It makes it easier to manage.

Alright, there are 4 small washers are 2 extra or I use all 4?
And what size hole is the 3-way switch hole in case I want to add another push-button like the rest.

Its a Cherry RR style switch. I don’t recall the exact measure, but its on the datasheet.

As for the washers, I probably threw extras in since they are so small and tend to stick together.

Ok thanks, seems to be around 20mm but I’ll check if the 19mm’s I’m waiting for work or at least hold it in place because of the screw nut and lip because there’s no 20mm or at least not easy to find for a good price.

Thanks for the response Jasen. I’ll be looking forward to when you get those CPS3 plexis back in.

With the aux panel did you guys use the little rubber seals with the 19mm vandal switches? if so did you put it between the nut and panel on the underside or the top side of the panel?

I put them under the switch, on top. It keeps it tight with friction. Easier to attach the nut.

I wanted to make a teaser video for the TE2 EZ MOD Board, but instead made Part 1 of the install video. Soon you will be able to mod your TE2 in a few minutes and make it quad system compatible with ease!

More excitement for the TE2 and Korean Lever fans.

https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13178691_2017227328503279_3326823351216301221_n.jpg?oh=7ec417a6c0961daa0a57a4e9c9506ab2&oe=57AC62D8

@“Jasen Hicks” - I’m assuming the EZ Mods for the TE2 will be only available after your deployment right?

Actually, via ArcadeShock and ParadiseArcade. This is the last major project in finishing before I go.

Ah perfect! :slight_smile:

Might be a good reason for me to get a XBOX ONE TE2 :slight_smile:

I’d get the PS4 version :slight_smile: Cheaper :slight_smile:

Unfortunately, not in AU. I can get a XB1 TE2 for about AUD250. The PS4 version (the blue one) is about AUD 400, and the TE2+ is AUD500!

For the price of a PS4 TE2, I could potentially get an XB1 TE2, EZ Mod and Brook UFB

Jasen, is the TE2 Mod going to be capable of passing through all the touchpad/L3/R3 signal from the TE2+?

The TE2+ is getting its own EZ MOD :slight_smile: