Some things work and some don’t. The demand was there about a year ago when I started offering them, or so it seemed, but when they became available the orders just weren’t there. I kept them around for a while to give it the college try, but the regular PFS was just more desirable.
As far as the PFS and what it future has in store is going to remain quiet for now. I have some overhauls coming but they aren’t quite ready yet. Need to do more prototyping to get them inline with the quality I and everyone else expects from a PFS and JCC.
I just received a PFS in the mail purchased in the trading outlet. I couldn’t be happier.
The weight is great, design is super simple and functional. It’s almost exactly like some sketches I made 4-5 years ago when I worked at a metal shop and wanted to make some cases.
I’ll be sure to post some pictures once I get it all wired up.
Simple and ultra tough, with lots of useable space inside. Very happy with mine. Also very happy with my custom 2p panel and Jasen’s excellent service in general.
Too light? "Light"is hardly the term I would use to describe the standard pfs. You must really hate stock mass production sticks.
Anyways, I’m looking forward to seeing what revisions Jasen cooks up. I probably won’t be buying another stick due to already having more than I need, but it will be another panzer if I change my mind or decide to sell and upgrade on one.
Yeah, it sucks but there are changes coming to the Panzer line. All for the long term health of the brand.
In the mean time… Korean PFS are done and shipped. Sorry for the crap photo from the iPhone, but it was a long night getting them finished and out the door finally. On a plus note for those who didn’t preorder one, I have 6 cases ready for immediate shipment that weren’t purchased during the pre-order. All numbered, #6-13, #13 being the last one made and the last one to ever be “mass produced” by my standard at least.
I have a bit of important news that I hate to share. I will be closing the shop temporarily starting Monday evening and lasting until September 2015. As many of you know, I proudly serve our country as a US Naval Officer. With it comes challenges and risks to a calm stationary life, but the rewards are tremendous and in my mind worth it. Between now and September I will be moving across the country and deploying abroad which removes my ability to run the shop and make the great things you want and expect. Fortunately, this is not going to be an instant change and more importantly no orders placed between now and Monday January 19th will be affected as I will be around preparing for the transition and finishing projects. Don’t fret as I am seeking avenues to keep the Panzer line available via sources while I am away. I apologize for the suddenness of the announcement, but thats the nature of the job. #GoNavy#Lovemygamingfamily.
I’ll help out by taking some inventory you won’t want to take with you on your PCS. I’ll send you an email to figure out what I can take off your hands.
I wish you all the best. It seemed you have great products, too bad for me, I arrived too late (but I’m really far away anyway)! Will sure wait for end 2015!
Thanks you for what you do to this community and your service to our country!!! Be safe!!
Question if you have a chance. What size fuse for the AC Line do you use for your MK30 ADCAP? I keep researching and see different values, what would you recommend?
Thanks in advanced!!
Edit: Fuse sizes I see are 1A, 2A, and 3A for AC, but I see this also for the 12V lines but those are DC. I just want to make sure I am not confusing the 2. (man I need to learn a lot more about electrical circuits…)
Edit 2: Found my answer, I asked Suzo Happ and they replied
Part of closing up for a bit includes thinning out the heard a bit. These are all NEW so there aren’t any DEEP discounts, but ordering the kit will save you a lot of time and money! Do th math and see
Panzer Kits ready to ship. You bring a lever and the buttons. Everything else is included: JCC Wiring Harness, PS360+, Neutrik Adapters with Gaskets, internal and external USB cables.
A fast blow fuse is preferred on the outside. I use a 2-3 AMP Fast Blow on the outside for this very reason. Without getting into the “this is what i do because its how I feel its right” aspects, and focusing in on the engineering… Its called selective tripping. When applied to machinery you have the following:
Switch - Easiest way to secure power. No protection. Used for controlling power to the machine only. This is the basic sense, and some switches can trip, but lets focus on the basic snap action dummy switch.
Breaker - Fast Trip on over current - First line of protection. Senses a rapid high current condition and trips open.
Fuse - Slow Trip on over current - Second line (redundant protection), over time the high current creates heat and breaks the internal wire creating an open. In the SuperGun case this is on the actual power supply.
Machine - Whatever it is doing the work, in this case the power supply internal to the SuperGun.
All of these lead to the protection of the machine, whatever that is. Typically you want the protection set so you can get a piece of gear, or sub set of gear powered by the same source, back online as quickly as possible. In the Arcade Cabinet, the source is the outlet and there really is two systems: the AC side and the DC side. Since the AC side is fused before its converted to DC, if the fuse blows on the outside of the cabinet, the entire cabinet goes down. If the DC power supply fuse blows, you lose the DC side which means you lost the brains of the system and the monitor and topper light will come on still. Since there is no AC side in the SuperGun once the fuse blows, the entire system is down so there really isn’t a subsystem of things that will keep working.
Hope this helps!
Jasen
OH! One more thing. Its not logical to use a single board as a means to measure how to select your fast blow fuse for a supergun. Since the goal is to have as many boards work with it as possible, it is quite possible that the startup current for each board is different. Take this example:
Voltage droops when load is high. When I plug a CPS2 system into a SuperGun I set the voltage on the front panel to 5V by adjusting the potentiometer. I play the game and get bored after a bit. I shut it off and then plug in a TMNT board. I power up the system and the 5V meter jumps to 5.3V so I adjust the pot again to get the voltage back to 5V. Why? The power requirements are different for each board, or the current flow is different. Your fast blow fuse should accommodate your most power hungry board at boot; typically 3A is sufficient.
Sexy harnesses… part of the closing until September blow out. Only $29.95 shipped each. You pick the color and 6 or 8 button version. Why pay $15 more?!
