WTS: Missing Person's Dual Modding Services CLOSED UNTIL JUNE AT LEAST!

Shop closed until at least June as I prepare to go to South Korea in April and Mexico in May. I still haven’t decided if I even want to reopen, but we shall see. Don’t even bother sending me requests. I mean it.

Welcome to Missing Person’s Dual Mod Service! Need a stick to work on multiple systems? I should be able to help you. Any stick that can fit a second PCB, I will be more than willing to mod. I expect TE’s and SE’s the most, but I will also be willing to work with HRAPs and VSHGs as well. If you have any other stick, I may be able to work with it, just PM me and ask.

Prices (Not including priority mail shipping, PM me with your zip code and what stick you want modded, and I will give you a shipping quote).

Dual Mod - No RJ-45 Installation: $30. This will typically be done for sticks only needing PS3 and Xbox 360 support. Parts will be charged extra (if you don’t supply them) and the cost for parts must be sent first so I can order your parts. Cost for Cthulhu + Imp = $46. If you want a neutrik USB jack, please add an extra $7 to the cost of parts, and $5 if you need a USB cable.

Dual Mod - RJ-45 Installation: $45. This will typically be done for sticks using a MC Cthulhu. The price will include a crimped USB cable–extra cables will be done for $10 each (This includes the cost of me buying the cable). Parts will be charged extra (if you don’t supply them) and the cost for parts must be sent first so I can order your parts. Cost for MC Cthulhu + Imp + Neutrik adapter + Ethernet cable = $60.

Full wiring job - No RJ-45 installation: $50. This will consist of hacking a 360 pad, and dual modding it with a Cthulhu. This will typically be done for sticks only needing PS3 and Xbox 360 support. Parts will be charged extra (if you don’t supply them) and the cost for parts must be sent first so I can order your parts. Cost for Cthulhu + Imp = $46. If you want a neutrik USB jack, please add an extra $7 to the cost of parts, and $5 if you need a USB cable.

Full wiring job - RJ-45 installation: $65. This will consist of hacking a 360 pad, and dual modding it with a MC Cthulhu. This will typically be done for sticks using a MC Cthulhu. The price will include a crimped USB cable–extra cables will be done for $10 each (This includes the cost of me buying the cable). Parts will be charged extra (if you don’t supply them) and the cost for parts must be sent first so I can order your parts. Cost for MC Cthulhu + Imp + Neutrik adapter + Ethernet cable = $60. NOTE: I do not have a Dremel, and do not intend to buy one, so in order for me to mount a Neutrik in a thick wood case, it will have to have a recess where I can mount it already put in. Otherwise, I will only wire up the Neutrik, and send it back to you to mount.

Replace a defective 360 PCB on SE/TE FightSticks (Currently dual-modded): $20. This will involve unhooking what I need to unhook from your dual mod, rewiring the dual mod, and rewiring the PCB itself.

Replace a defective 360 PCB on SE/TE FightSticks (Not dual modded): $10.That price can also be added to the Dual Mod options above if you have a defective 360 TE/SE Fightstick, and want it replace, but want to make it a dual-modded stick.

FAQ:

Q. Will you do a Hori FS?
A. No, just no. There is no room in a Fighting Stick for a dual mod.

Q. Will you do X-stick?
A. It depends on if there’s room in it, and if the mod you want is feasible. PM me with specs, and I will let you know. Also, if it’s a stick I haven’t worked with yet, don’t be surprised if I ask you for the weight of the stick so I can give you an accurate shipping quote.

Q. Will you put in a UPCB?
A. Absolutely not. There is just way too many reasons, but I’ll list some:

  1. A lot of work just to get one working period.
  2. Doubling that time is making the individual cables needed
  3. I dealt way too much with one for it to never work right, and I just don’t want to invest that much time into another one to tell a customer, “Sorry, but I couldn’t deliver.”
  4. I would have to dremel out a hole for the 15-pin; I don’t have one, and I don’t intend on buying one.

Q. Ok, well how about the Superplay?
A. I’m planning on getting a board as soon as mojochan has one available to tinker with. If it’s easier than the UPCB (as in, easy enough that it doesn’t dramatically raise my turnaround time enough that it takes forever to get to other orders), I will offer it as an option, and pricing will depend on the labor time, and the price of the board. Labor time would also depend on whether mojochan offers them in only in kit form or fully assembled.

Q. Would you be willing to do a project box setup?
A. I’m sorry, but no. Once again, it boils down to the time it would take, and the fact that I don’t have a dremel. Also, the cost would be so high for the boards and I would have to charge a lot more the time I invest to finish this. I want to keep prices down for you, and keep my turnaround time low so I can take care of more of you guys.

Q. Will you put switches on the stick?
A. Yes, if you want to use a DPDT switch instead of an Imp, I would be more than happy to accomodate you. That would also knock $7 off your parts order.

Q. Will you mod PS3 sticks to work with the 360?
A. I will, but I’m debating whether to just order pre-hacked pads from Modchipman.com or to hack them myself. If I do hack them myself, I will probably use the Retro Arcade PCB. Pricing will depend on the cheapest I can get it for online. If you are the first order for a PS3 stick to mod to 360, please be patient as I do the first hack of the PCB in question, I haven’t hacked a 360 pad before.

Q. Will you take international orders?
A. Sure. Just bare in mind that shipping will be brutal. PM me with your Country, Postal Code (If applicable), and the stick you want modded for a quote.

Q. Should I send my stick as soon as you take my order?
A. I don’t want you to be without your stick for a prolonged period of time. I will place your order for your parts. When I get shipping notification for your parts, I will contact you to send your stick, as well as the cost to mod your stick + return shipping.

Once I get the money to finish the mod, please send your stick. Just to avoid any problems with someone, I will not finish a mod I have not received payment on. Because then I spent a solid couple hours modding your stick for you not to compensate me, without the funds to ship it back. And I’m not about to assume ownership of it, even though you just sent me a stick with no compensation for modding it, to sell in the TO and then hear someone say, “OMG HE STOLE MY STICK!” So please, send paypal me your money, then mail me your stick and things will run smoothly.

Q. Will you pay to have my stick shipped to you?
A. No. That’s part of your responsibility. My responsibility is to mod it, that’s it. Shipping is on the customer.

Q. How long should I expect it to take to receive my stick back?
Depends on the USPS, and your order in your queue. I will, firstly, keep everyone updated in the OP of this thread about the status of their order. Of course, that will only be the 1st order in the queue, as I will only work on one at a time. But I will try to do at least one stick per day, so if you’re last in the queue, expect it to take 5 days AT MOST to finish your stick. If I’m working on a stick/board I haven’t worked with before, it may take longer than one day to finish, but use that as a general rule of thumb, and if you’re wondering about how long until I get to you, check the queue for more info.

Priority usually takes 2-5 days domestically. I usually receive priority from the west coast in two days, but that isn’t always the case, so be patient. I will provide you with tracking information.

Also, note, that Tuesdays and Saturdays are IMPOSSIBLE for me to ship on, as I have school obligations on Tuesday all day and I work on Saturdays. So, if your stick is done on Monday, expect it to be shipped on Wednesday. Rarely, if ever, will sticks be done on Fridays, as that’s my day to relax and to host meetups, so that shouldn’t even bring Saturdays into question. That will not, however, deter me from shipping on Friday.

Q. What if something goes wrong with my stick?
A. Note that I will be testing all the sticks for problems before I mail them, I will not send you back a stick that only half works. But if at any time something goes wrong, please, send it back to me, and I will repair it, so long as it’s within the realm of me repairing.

For example, let’s say I added a MC Cthulhu to your 360 TE, and when you get it back, 360 support doesn’t work. You open up the stick and there’s some wires that are loose in the case, but you can’t fix that yourself. I will take care of it.

However, if all the wires are intact, it is probably the 360 PCB, and not my own wiring, that’s messing up, and I can’t fix that. Call Madcatz, they’re good about replacing the PCB. I will be willing to replace the board for you, but since it wasn’t because of my previous services, I will charge you for it.

Any other questions, feel free to PM me.

what if i send u only pcb and buy the parts can u to that?

Like, you take the PCB out and send it to me, and send me the parts, and I mod the PCB without having the stick?

That’s possible. I’d rather only do that to PS3 only Cthulhu’s, as I prefer to have the RJ-45 mounted when I mod those, but I could very well just wire up the ethernet cable and crimp the cable accordingly, then send it back to you if you are willing to mount the adapter yourself.

So yeah, that is very possible.

Why would I choose to get an RJ-45 or not? What is it used for? I just want to get my 360 TE dual modded to work on PS3.

Also, could we avoid shipping by me giving you the stick at an AR, and you just giving it back at the next one?

Also, would you be willing to put in a Seimitsu spring for a few more bucks?

Similar to using a USB Adapter, RJ-45 is mostly used to add extra console support to an MC Cthlulhu along with detachable cables, as having 3 detachable cables looks a lot nicer than having 3 cables dangling out of the stick

No RJ45 HRAP EX dual mod. How much? $50? I’ve got the same questions as MrK 'cept I want to keep my spring.

Mr. K & EMX = Yeah, you could definitely give me the sticks at AR to save on shipping; however, it’s never a guarantee that I can make it to the next one, so I may have to mail them back to you, just because I don’t want to hold onto your sticks indefinitely.

Mr. K = I’ve never actually taken a stick apart to replace the spring, but if it looks like something I could do, I’ll be more than happy to.

That’s one other thing I want to note, that I didn’t put into the FAQ: I will not solder cables directly to the Cthulhu so that you have all the cables attached at once, this is for several reasons:

  1. It’s unsafe if someone gets the doofy idea to plug in your stick to multiple systems at once
  2. I’d have to drill a larger hole in your stick for all the cables to fit through that I don’t have a drill bit for.
  3. It looks fugly, and I take enough pride in my work not to leave you with an aesthetically ugly product.

The only time I would do so is in a circumstance where it is impossible to use a RJ-45 adapter on a mod (e.g. a dual mod involving a Dreamcast stick and adding a 360 or PS3-only Cthulhu board).

Where did Mr. K’s post go? Anyway, its no issue taking the sticks apart to mod the spring, I put an LS spring on a JLF stick, one of the first stick mods I’ve ever done. Just don’t drop the damn e clip, I spend twenty minutes looking for the damn thing.

[media=youtube]L67fUfH3S5o[/media]

Thanks for the advice.

Mr. K = Kikuichimonji. STL calls him Mr. K for short.

Lol, that’d to it, I was looking for the name “Mr. K”. You can tell I’m still new here. :looney:

So is there any reason to me to get the RJ-45 mod for my 360 TE over the cheaper one besides having two cables sticking out? What would be the total cost (parts and labor) for the RJ-45 version versus the cheaper one? I’m still a bit confused.

Ok, here’s the rundown for the need for an RJ-45.

The Multiconsole Cthulhu board can operate on PS3, PS2, Wii, Gamecube, and the original Xbox, depending on which cable you use. Using the RJ-45 (Ethernet) adapter, you can wire the adapter to the board using an ethernet cable, then crimp cables with ethernet plugs that will plug one end into the adapter and the other into the console being used.

If you only need PS3 and 360 support, there is a PS3 only Cthulhu board. Since there are only USB devices being used, there is no need for multiple cables, and thus, no need for a RJ-45; one cable can be used to control both boards.

Let’s see if I understand your pricing structure correctly.

I ship you my 360 SE stick, Return shipping costs+$76.
You provide dual mod parts and labor (Cthulhu/Imp/wiring/install) and ship back?

My initial prices do not include shipping, I provide exact quotes based on your zip code, as with most sticks, they don’t fit inside flat rate boxes.

If you want to PM me your zip code, I’ll give you a shipping estimate. But for parts and labor, yes, $76.

Yo, put me down for a no RJ-45 dual mod for my Xbox 360 TE. I’ll give you the money at AR. If things run slowly though I’m gonna ask raeli to do it.

How much will this cost me in total then? $76?

good luck, missing person answered all my questions courteously…

$76 now, and I’ll try to make sure the stick gets to you at the next AR one way or another. If not, I’ll just need like $8 after that to get it shipped, but otherwise, cool.

And your stick is PS3?

My stick is actually a 360 stick because I bought it from Koga specifically to get it dual modded.

Oh ok, good looking out. :tup:

fixed in main post.