I diid some searching and I only found a couple threads about doing this, the end result of pretty much all of them being the recommendation to use a gamecube controller. So I decided to make this thread on how I padhacked my Classic Controller.
The classic controller is a common ground.
Unforunatley I didn’t take pitures during the process. But here’s the PCB with the solder points I used. You’ll have to scrape off the black stuff to expose copper to solder to. Ignore the Red markings.
And here’s my completed mod. I was able to get everything jammed back into the classic controller and the actual buttons still work. I chose not to connect anything to Start, Select or Home cause not enough buttons on my HSS-0130.
Great thread, and in a HSS-0130 no less, very classy! I similarly found there to be pretty few references available for padhacking a classic controller, and as I’m finishing up my own stick in prep for tomorrow’s TvC launch, I’ll be posting a worklog of the process I used and some pics. How did you tackle the L/R trigger hybrid analog/digital issue?
Nice job. The fact that you left the PCB in the classic controller case is awesome. You are taking Nintendo’s chaining of controllers to the next level. Now you need to be able to plug another controller into the arcade stick.
Thanks. I actually I dunno if you can see in the pictures, but I had the cable that plugs into the Wiimote running from it’s original location and just brought around the back and zip tied to the other cable. It wasn’t so clean. So I redid the mod so that both cables come out of the top. I’ll post pics of it later. Lol. I wonder if I can hack into the Wii Motion + inbetween and connect a nunchuck.
Actually I didn’t. I’m just going to remap the commands I would have mapped to L and R to other buttons.
Yeah, same with my 360 stick. If I bought a classic controller, could I put it’s PCB in the 360 stick and have it work like that? Don’t know all too much.
I’m also wondering about a 360-to-Wii solution for my Hori. If it’s not possible to get a hardware solution, perhaps it could be done in software via homebrew? Just get the Wii reading from the usb port. I’m a complete nub at that though, so that’s probably beyond me.
I could be wrong, but what if you just dedicate the TE stick alone with a DPDT switch, solder the wires from the TE’s pcb, and then make a dsub connector out of it and then use the switch to handle the Classic Controller.
Otherwise, the pcb in the TE stick must be taken out and used in a project box with a connector instead. Then you would have multiple project boxes.
No. The reason is because a DB15 connector has 15 pins and is just wired directly to the button contacts. A USB connector works through communicating with the actual chips on the PCB, taking the signals from the button contacts and converting them into the 4-pin USB standard.
You can either mod a DB15 connector into your TE and connect it to the classic controller as shown above, or just extract the classic controller PCB and dual mod it internally with the TE PCB, in which case you would still have a second cable running out of the box to connect to the Wii remote.
I used the DB15 cause I also use the HSS-0130 for my supergun which has a Neo-Geo controller port pinout. I plan on making similar modules for the Xbox and PS3 controller.
Sorry for my ignorance, but where would one solder for voltage on this pcb? I’m interested in dual modding with a 360 pcb, but I’m not sure if I would need to connect voltage from the 360 pcb to the Wii pcb for proper power on both, or if it would be okay without it.
You can probably take it off the connector off the back of the PCB where the cord that plugs into the Wiimote goes. I’d assume the red and black. But I dunno for sure. Maybe someone with a multimeter can confirm that.
Interesting, what I’m looking for is basically a way to have a CC where I can plug in any PS3 stick (and not a PS3 stick modded for Wii). If there were any way to make this, available, either as a kit, or even a fully assembled CC w/ mod, then colour me highly interested, overseas shipping be damned.
Ran into an issue with the L and R buttons. In all of my tests, mainly Virtual Console games, they worked just fine. But with Tatsunoko, It seems to take the analog into consideration. I ended up just remapping those commands to other buttons. I updated post #6. Maybe someone with more electronics experience can figure out how to bypass the analog slider. Like a resistor or something.
FA-MAS, I was just going to post the same thing. Your method worked great for everything but TvC, which, like you said, seems to take the analog triggers into account. I too am just going to remap.
This is what Toodles wrote in the padhacking thread, if someone could come up with a schematic or solution it would be greatly appreciated:
I don’t really like that option for 1 major reason. The wire. All my consoles are close to my projector which is behind where I sit and the wires don’t reach. Plus they’d be running across a walkway.
