The 360 pcb for TE’s have issues with RT at times… I have not seen any issues with the PS3 models…
Other sticks around that price range would be
http://www.focusattack.com/products/Qanba-Q4RAF-XB360-PS3-PC-Compatible-Joystick.html
http://www.amazon.com/Real-Arcade-Pro-V3-Playstation-3/dp/B0041SGD44/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1313901567&sr=8-1
the quanba is already set up for both ps3/360
the Hori Pro V3 SA is another popular stick for under $150
I wonder how much of this is Mad Catz fault and how much is Microsoft’s as Microsoft is the default distributor of the encoder chips on licensed Xbox 360 controllers.
Hori Pro is a good alternative to the TE line. I am still on the fence on the Qanba, but that is a personal not a tech issue.
I’m the same way with quanba but it is in the 150 price range and it works on ps3… Seeing good reviews on it…on the fence on it as well…
Does the SF4 TE stick have problems connecting to PCs? because thats a feature i that i want the stick i get to have
The 360 will work just download drivers…the ps3 has had some problems with the pci cards…or something like that…it sounds like it depends on the pc set up…
It depends on the chipset on the PC motherboard. The PS3 TE uses UHCI a USB protocol. Develop by Intel.
By Default
[LIST]
[]If you have a AMD or Nvidia chipset you can’t use a PS3 TE
[]If you have a Intel or Via (or any chipset vender that licensed UHCI from Intel) you can support a PS3-TE.
[/LIST]
The work around is a USB PCI card that is UHCI compatible. Sadly many of the better made USB PCI cards are not UHCI compatible.
If you try to use a PS3 TE on a non-UHCI USB controller you can see the device and its name, but you will not see it working under properties or in games.
Another work around is replacing the PCB with a PCB that will function as a HID gaming device. I believe most PS3 PCB replacement board, Dual-strike, Cthulhu and others will work on the PC.
Will the SSF4 TE S-Black (http://store.gameshark.com/viewItem.asp?idProduct=4768&idCategory=336) ever be restocked or are they done?
From last week.
Probability means Mad Catz is gearing up for a new project or product to get ready for and needs all hands on the project.
Or the SF IV TE-S did not sell that well, maybe both.
Hi, I’m a pad player and I’m looking to upgrade from my Nubytech PS2 pad + PS2/PS3 converter… and I’ve decided to track down an authentic Saturn pad. Yes, I know how difficult/expensive this will be. I have a Mad Catz pad for 360 and that’s not cutting it for me anymore, either. I’m trying to get:
eBay looks like nothing but knock-offs (except for one, and I keep getting outbid). Does anybody have any other ideas? Thanks.
Yep like the recently announced MLG fightstick 
Info needs updating.
Just updated my old post in the TE Differences thread.
I’m new to fighting games, and considering buying my first stick. I was wondering if I could get some advice.
I’ve narrowed down my options to two for the pc (choosing xb360 versions) the MadCatz tournament edition S, and Hori RAP VX SA . From what I understand both products are similar in quality. The only glaring difference I’ve seen between the two is the Hori stick has a different button configuration being Top row: B(red),X(blue),Y(yellow) Bottom row: A(green), compared to the Madcatz being **Top row: **X(blue), Y(yellow) Bottom row: A(green), B(red).
What are the disadvantages/advantages of choosing one over the other?
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As for the layout, there is no real difference, as you can set your button configuration however you want. They are just two different layouts that were chosen for various reasons. Madcatz went for that layout as it matched the layout of a controller(and on the new MLG TE they use the Hori Layout for some reason). There is no real advantage or disadvantage to either unless you are playing games other than fighters on an actual console.
It’s a licensing thing: MarkMan has explained it before, but if a stick is licensed by Capcom (or the like), it somehow allows them to sidestep the button layout issue. I’m sure there’s a deep political explanation.
I was referring not to the position, but the actual arrangement of buttons(where “A” is placed). I probably could have used a better word than layout. My bad on that one. Both of those controllers use a Vewlix layout though. I think Hori just pays for licensing, and Madcatz goes through Capcom for it.
The button layout (position of A,B,X,Y,etc) is what I was referring to. Neither of them actually license the ‘Vewlix’ name or layout (save for the VLX).
I was not aware that on a cab they were actually referred to by name or number. I just assumed it was blank goes here and is used for blank with one of those info stickers explaining how to play. You actually have to license placing the A button in the bottom left over the top right?
The buttons themselves I’ve know as LP, MP, HP, 3P, LK, MK, HP, and 3K.
I had the same problem with my R1 stick bought on release day. The last two kick buttons would sometimes just fail until I power cycled the stick. I’ve since drilled a third hole in the front of the stick and relocated the guide button with a 24mm sanwa. I removed the Turbo PCB from the upper left of the stick, then used one of Art’s plexi’s without the turbo section cut out to cover where the turbo PCB used to be. Never had the problem again. I believe it has something to do with the turbo PCB, or something in that area, but the last time I had that problem was before I made those modifications about a year ago.