Licensing fees.
More control over third-party manufacturers?
YES
Do they just enjoy limiting their customers options?
YES
What he said.
It is all about control over the market for MS, The idea is more starved the customers are the more they eat right out of Microsoft’s hands.
MS thought they won the last gen of the console war and they are wrong.
MS tried to take actions as if they were a monopoly now as they falsely thought they won over the PS3, but this bit them in the ass.
MS is still going to remain dominant on who gets to make what for the XBone.
I’m looking to pick up a set of sticks for a MAME cabinet I’m building and was hoping to get a bit of advice on this one. Originally, I was going to get an x-arcade dual joystick set up, but the general consensus around here seems to put them in a bad light.
Budget: $120-150
Needs: USB/PC compatible
Wants: Preferably both sticks for the budgeted price, but if necessary, I can extend my timetable to mitigate the higher cost and just get one stick at a time.
If you are building a mame cabinet why buy a premade stick?
Just build a control panel, buying the parts separately, especially so if you want american style parts which would be cheaper.
On a really tight budget? Make a stick out of this:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/tvtray.jpg
Mostly because it would be a lot simpler for me to drop a premade stick that has all of the drivers ready into a mounting and run with it. Building one from scratch is a bit farther than what my experience level is at this point. I haven’t put together or modified a control panel before, so a pre-made seemed ideal to a beginner like me.
What drivers? Xbox 360 drivers are finicky, and PS3 controllers do not grantee PC compatibility
Alot of Hori and Mad Catz sticks do have PC compatibility issues.
Now alot of the 3rd party PCB encoders out there are are plug and play devices.
The Xin Mo, I-Pac, Toodles Cthulhu, Zero Delay board are all Plug and play devices and other than the I-Pac requires any software or drivers.
Also alot of the cost of a premade stick is the case, you might be scarifying the case any ways, and if you are not you aren’t building as cabinet just a big fancy stand with storage space
That’s probably a very accurate way of describing it, I suppose. Do any of the boards you’ve mentioned come “pre-wired” so to speak? Or are, at least, minimal assembly required?
Thanks again for the help. There’s a lot to consider when you’re new to this.
The Zero Delay board prewired for Japanese parts.
The other boards have screw terminals for easy assembly.
Just make sure you get the correct one for the style of buttons you’re going to use (.110" disconnects with a 5 pin joystick connection for Japanese parts, .187" disconnects for American style parts).
I’m looking for anything good less than $100 and I found these on the internet:
Do these sound like decent deals? I just don’t want them to break early or anything.
For these prices, not really. If you really just want a cheap stick you can try the Qanba Q1 which is at 60$ on their website , but you can find the Madcatz Pro on sale for about 100$ during most big tournaments and that stick is a significant step up in quality. I would recommend that over SE or the Fighting Stick, but i understand that budget is important too.
Thanks for the heads up. I put together a small shopping list of parts. Would these work well together? My ownly concern is A) Are these buttons any good? And B) Will the Xin Mo PCB work with a Seimitsu joystick? The PCB is using .187 disconnects.
http://fgc.paradisearcadeshop.com/cocktail-joysticks/238-seimitsu-ls-32-01-arcade-joystick.html
I’ve read that the 2 joystick Xin Mo board has issues with 2P controls, so I was thinking of running two of the single player PCBs. Any thoughts or inputs?
MadCatz SE PS3 - $45 shipped on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291156240097&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
I made a new guide.
http://i.imgur.com/FbLKN1H.jpg
[url=http://imgur.com/ShzcJyE](4’000 x 10’000, 3.2mb)
I kinda disagree on some of your choices.
I would not have the Fighting Edge a S tier stick, there few flaws that I would bump it back down to B- level.
Hori Fight Stick Mini would be a D-list, All the Mini sticks would be a D tier.
Also the Agetec Green Goblin is one of the hardest sticks to mod.
You missing a whole bunch of the Hrap sticks, what we call the Hrap 1, Hrap 2, Hrap EX
You sorta mislabeled the Sega Virtua stick, there 3 sticks that has the virtua stick name
The only Virtua stick got that got released in the US, comes in Black (US) or Gray (Japan) Terrible stick
Sega Virtua stick HSS-0136, older models come with seimitsu parts newer models come with Ascii parts.
There also a Black version that is made for the PS1.
http://www.ncsx.com/www/vstkpro.jpg
Sega Virtua stick HSS-0130, only came out for the Sega Saturn and Dreamcast, almost near replica of the Astro City control panel asembily
The controller is compatible with actual Japanese control panels. Should be in S-tier
All the NEO GEO sticks that are not the original AES stick kinda sucks
and would be in C tier. Only the Original NEO GEO AES stick has the joystick made by Seimitsu
NO NES advantage.
Ether way ALOT of information is missing.
Bitch please. The only S tier product is the HOON stick.
But seriously… that Hori bias o_O
I haven’t used those buttons, I very much prefer Japanese buttons (Sanwa, Seimitsu) over American ones. That said, general consensus is that iL parts are currently the best American style buttons, you might consider those instead.
I also have no experience with the Xin-Mo, but looking at it, I see no reason why it wouldn’t work with a Seimitsu. Running two of them for 2p controls should cause no problems either.
The Madcatz TTT2 sticks should be lumped in with the MCZ Soul Calibur V sticks, Noir layout rather than Viewlix. Also, I’d point out the pcb quality differences between each TE version- this might save someone from buying a round 1unaware that the boards were problematic.
VSHG not S-Tier? Can’t agree with that.