Working on a v2.
Just because the Horis are above the MadCatz in the A-tier doesn’t mean they’re BETTER - the placing was completely arbitrary.
I’ll note it in the next guide.
Thanks, noted!
I had a VSHG.
It’s a bitch to mod with any stick other than JLF, and not as easy to access as recent sticks.
Had I been standing anywhere near you when you made this, I’d have whacked you upside the head. Don’t take that personally, there are just some really, really ODD bits with this guide. I’ll take this as a guide for stock-as-is and nothing else. When you factor in dual modding it’s a much different game.
(Full disclosure: I, like most of the other prominent TT members, can’t say anything either way about the Atrox because since I was one of the people chosen to help design it, meaning I’m very partial to it. The USB cable and the jack both piss me off, though.)
– The fighting edge should not be S-tier because it’s too hard to dual mod (and loses start and select once you do it).
– In fact, no Hori should be S-tier because they all have their stupid crap like PCB wiring that makes no sense. In fact, the only one that can be dual modded with any kind of quickness or efficiency is the VX SA.
– The only S-tier stick on that list should be the SFxT VS. Easy to mod, easy to repair, and MadCatz has great customer support. It only loses points because the PS3 pcb is hard to access.
– The TE-S is also a strong candidate for S-tier for the same reasons, plus it fixed the biggest problems with the Round 1 and 2 TE sticks. It should also be noted that a skilled modder can mod a 360 TE-S and up in around fifteen minutes. I have no depth perception and can do it in between 15-30 minutes, less if I use a assembled Cerberus.
– Madcatz Pro is C-tier in my eyes because it can’t be accessed from the top and has too many screws to open up (ten on the plate, and thirteen to get to the PCB). It’s at least easy to replace the buttons, and is stylish and affordable. I could be argued B-tier. I’d never own one, though.
– Qanba Q4s should be C-tier at best due to frequent PCB failures and an insanely high rate of USB failure, especially because the doors break TOO easily and people then wrap the cords around the stick. Now, since there is a metal panel with sharp edges, this means the cord eventually gets sawed through (if the rotational tension doesn’t tear out the USB cable in the first place. Every time I hear about someone buying a Qanba, I see dollar signs because I know they’ll be paying me to repair it eventually. To their credit, Qanba/Eightarc has at least started replacing cables with no questions asked, so there’s that. Much like the MCZ Pro, I’d never own one, but I’d at least take the Q2 (the wooden one) to use as a cheap case.
I’d love to see where my Hori Fighting Stick 3 is on that list. Also, I’ll never be grateful enough to my brother for buying me that DC Green Goblin for my birthday back in 99. Still love that thing.
Horrible list.
Still horrible.
What is even the criteria for each tier?
Quality, value, reliability, authentic parts?
This is why I really hate tier lists. Its so pointless.
you can keep start/select on an FE when you dual mod it, its just that its always on when on XBOX mode duckie
To be honest with you, its probably better to tabulate it on a list and have checkboxes on what sticks have so it can be compared with others without subjecting it to personal preferences in a tier list since everyone will almost always argue about the list. A tabulated list with good criteria makes it much easier to compare one stick to another if people are deciding.
Yeah, this isn’t doing anyone any favors. Seriously, this topic would be much better handled in a wiki.
Now Arcade Shock has the image on their Facebook.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/darksakul/WTF_zpsa4b64765.png
What the hell?!
LoL. I’m holding my head in my hands. I think most of you can understand.
While this tier list is probably for fun, (lazy) people are going to read it and buy sticks based on it. You should probably put some sort of giant disclaimer on it.
Also input lag is the most important factor to me when buying sticks so in my view VXSA is S-tier 
I’ve been seeing this everywhere. Shit’s gotten out of hand.
Are the parts in the TvC SE and the SF SE even different at all?
Yes.
My Disclaimer OFFICIAL STATEMENT is I do not support, condone or acknowledge the misinformation shown in this chat.
That chart is incomplete, inaccurate, way too subjective, there sticks I would not even mention on that list ( didn’t on my guide) because they are not even worth consideration.
I like to petition for these images to be removed from the forum and any one in the community who tries to repose this nonsense.
That’s all well and good but now that Arcade Shock has posted it, I’m not sure how much your lack of approval is worth… Especially when this is your response to people who don’t have as much information/skill set as you do:
Well if you can’t decide between Mad Catz, Hori, Qanba, Razer, Sega, ETokki and Customs?
I can’t help you.
Its like what you like to drink, Coke or Pepsi . if you can’t decide on your own then no one can really help you.
I am not going to decide for you, is whats my policy always been in this thread. I can advise, I can point out the information, show you where to go, for you but I can’t decide for you.
And if you are still lost after all that, then it is not my problem.
Um, hello, I’m looking for a high quality Fightpad. I’ve searched countless websites but all they seem to offer is the low quality fightpad controllers that no one seems to like and the ones I want are discontinued. I have a arcade stick modded with sanwa parts but I can’t for the life of me use this at all. It’s been about a year and the arcade stick still feels foreign and unnatural so I boxed it up.
PDP and Madcatz make good products for pads. To be honest though, they’re all pretty low quality compared to arcade sticks.