Yes it does. I’d recommend the usual, ls-40 if you don’t mind a square gate since that stick feels great and has very sensitive engage distances, otherwise ls-56/58/60 have quick engage, short throw and are compatible with octo gates.
With the depending on the plate you get you may only be able to mount the ls-56 on 2 screws in the Venom, making it a little less secure. Not a big deal imo, but something to keep in mind.
As for buttons, everything that isn’t the stock buttons will feel better. If you want a smooth throw on the buttons you can go for sanwa or hori buttons, but if you want a more clicky feel, you can go with seimitsu buttons.
i’ve made two more artworks, tried to recreate the Madcatz TE2 + picture, and added a splash for buttons in the second one (wich could be nice with white plunger and black surround buttons imho):
I read a bit more about all the sticks and ended up going for an LS32 which I am awaiting delivery for and some Sanwa buttons to change all from stock. I cant wait at all!
I am just trying to figure out the artwork now and I dot have adobe illustrator so scouring my friends list to see if I can get some VEGA artwork done with a white back ground
Guys do you tried to put an original sanwa shaft cover to a JLF joystick? Because i ve modded my venoms with simple JLF-TP-8YT, and added the venom dust and shaft cover, but i find it a little weird…the feeling is not the same as the original venom stick with the shaft cover , seems like to long or tight ,and he barely move on the shaft…i m askink if with the original one is better
Ps: ok i managed to solve the issue using sand paper on the shaft cover (the bottom part) and now it feets perfectly…anorher think, i really didn t like the feeling on the stock sanwa jfl joystick , it’s really to loose for my taste that’s why i started thinking on a solution. I know that many people try different spring, but did not want to spend money on that and waste time ordering the stuff so i tried at first to add a second spring to the jfl one. So i used the spring that came with the venom stock joystick and actually it was really too stiff with this…then i found on the net the best solution for me, without spending anything and finding the perfect stifness. I just strachted the original JLF spring to his maximum lenght, around 7cm, and replaced into the joystick like that…now the joystick it s really awesome, and can enjoy it while playing sf V!!
To anyone who put a Hayabusa into one of these things, how straightforward was it? Some Amazon review was saying that it couldn’t fit in the Mayflash V2 properly because of where the cable is. While that doesn’t seem to be true – I’d like actual confirmation on how difficult it was to make it fit before I purchase one, just to be sure.
Swapped out the stock parts for Kuros and the Hayabusa. It looks exactly the same though lol.
The Hayabusa fit pretty easily, I just had to turn the harness connector towards the buttons, as opposed to away from them. Not sure why that Amazon review said it didn’t fit.
The hardest part was getting off those damn ‘quick’ disconnects. Kept feeling like I was gonna break the thing while prying/pulling with the flathead screwdriver.
Haven’t really got to test them out much but swapping the parts out makes me appreciate how good the stock parts are.
Any one can be a amazon reveiwer including those who have no idea what they are talking about
by changing the direction of the wire harness you also change where those switched are located in comparison to your movements on the joystick.
This is for the Sanwa JLF and Seimitsu joysticks but it applies to the Hori Hayabusa as well
By changing the harness connectors orientation you change what direction is needed to hit each switch.
You can fix the directions by
A. changing the connector back to where it was
B. cutting and splicing the wiring for the directions (you can leave the ground wire alone)
Not enough to effect game play, less than a frame.
Also don’t read too much into the whole lag thing.
As long as your latency is under a frame you should be fine.
Whats apparently laggy is Street Fighter 5 it self.
I wasn’t clear though. Technically, I never changed the orientation of the harness connector since I wasn’t able to (my 5-pin cable is very short).
The first time I tried to use the stick, only ‘up’ worked. I had the pin inserted the wrong way (like inverted lol) on one side it seems and once I fixed that, it worked somehow. Guess everything just matched up?
Problem is the harness cord is very close to one of the buttons, close to touching the quick disconnects. I’m slightly worried about unnecessary friction especially if I press that button. I should get a longer harness cord and change the orientation of the harness to the right, but for now – it works. Then again, if it’s faces to the right, the cable compartment sort of gets in the way like the Amazon reviewer said.
I wonder if anybody has their Hayabusa mounted to the right in this stick…
Hi. I’m bit late but thought I’d show off my custom artwork for my Venom and Mayflash sticks. I actually used this art for some sticks I made years ago so I just had to adapt it to fit the Venom sticks. There is a small error on the Darkstalkers stick as the logo should have been a bit more to the left as it’s juts slightly underneath the magnet but it’s not too big of a deal.
I printed these myself as I have an A3+ printer and I also have a cutting machine which I used to cut out the images.
My machine is a silhouette - it uses registration marks which allows you to lineup the cut-line with the printed image (not all cutters do this).
I certainly could do a print and cut service if people wanted it - at least for the Venom as I have a cut file now that I’ve tweaked to make sure it fits correctly. Other brands of joystick would be a bit more tricky as I wouldn’t have the actual joystick to test the cut on.
Sure, no problem. Out of curiosity how are you managing to drill the holes for the hit box layout? I imagine the metal plate on the Venom stick would be pretty tough.
I’ve ordered a new acrylic cover and on the same acrylic sheet made a replacement for the metal plate. I hope this will be sturdy enough. If it isn’t I’ve found a few companies that can laser cut a metal plate from my drawing.
I’m trying it with acrylic first because I needed a replacement top cover, and the replacement plate would fit on the same sheet.
