Venom arcade stick PS4/PS3

TU101UK really good ! :smiley: y like it.

Great glad to hear it went according to expectation! I’m liking the transparent buttons!

Just wanted to let people know that the cable I posted about earlier has arrived and fits perfectly on my Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT, also it’s 20cm so 10cm shorter than the one in Sinetwo’s guide, and Sinetwo himself mentioned 30cm was a bit on the long side whereas this 20cm cable fits almost perfectly.

Here’s the link again:

Perhaps Sinetwo can add it (and an ebay link mentioned elsewhere in this thread) to his post for visibility so people have more choice as to where to order their cable (amazon uk wouldn’t ship to my country, which is why i went in search for another option).

I’ll do that later today if I remember. Please post on the guide and I’m sure that’ll be a good reminder!

Here is mine, Sanwa stick and Seimitsu buttons, still need the artwork :slight_smile:

Got the Sanwa stick and buttons for my other Venom yesterday. Also swapped out the art on both sticks to professional prints. The Chun-Li one was previously printed by myself on my Samsung printer. It may not make much of a difference in the photos compared to my earlier post but the difference in quality really is huge.
This is the result:

http://i.imgur.com/IyNv1fW.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UHpkfck.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/w0wV6Vh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pfmwcwb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FIexB7T.jpg

If anyone’s interested, these are the actual files I sent when I ordered the prints. I did not mark out the holes for the stick and the buttons on the final art, since I prefer to just lay the new art in its place on the stick with the plexi on top and cut along the edges of all the holes. That way, I minimize the risk of them not being perfectly aligned. I left the white hole for the PS button there since I am not switching that button out and so cannot use the same method when cutting. I also did not mark out holes for the LEDs on the top, since I have removed that whole PCB from both sticks.

I did however use a complete template (with all the hole markings) when lining up the background initially.

I specified these to be printed with dimensions 324 x 195 millimeters.

http://i.imgur.com/dQ1Fhru.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mpGA7E1.jpg

Really liking the mods I’ve seen, guys. I think I’d be far more inclined to pick one of these up than a TE2. The prospect of doing my own (light, granted) mod is a big selling point.

Finally stopped being lazy and got my art printed. I messed up with the cutting a bit here and there but I corrected that with a black permanent marker. You can’t really tell unless you press your nose up against the plexiglass. Scratched off the Turbo and players 1-4 markings on the plexiglass since this is for pc anyway. Didn’t bother with the holes for those either.

Album with some pictures and the artwork I sent to the copy shop. Also handed them the 324x195mm dimensions like the guy above did and it ended up a perfect fit.
It’s better looking than the pictures give credit though, my potato-phone doesn’t do it justice.

Hi all,

Has anybody tried doing a dual-mod with the Venom PCB?

I’m getting weird results when attempting this. Here are the details of my set-up, with the problem at the end:

[list]
[] The other PCB is from a Datel Arcade Pro (aka Paewang Revolution), for PS3 and XBox360 support
[
] USB red+black wires + shielding are connected to both PCBs, always
[] A DPDT switch is used to select the PCB to which the USB green+white wires are routed
[
] Venom PCB is always in PS4 mode (and turbo-fire disabled :))
[] If I disconnect the Venom PCB entirely, the Datel PCB works fine
[
] If I disconnect the Datel PCB entirely, the Venom PCB works fine
[] With both PCBs plugged in and the DPDT switch in the Venom position, the Venom works fine
[
] THE PROBLEM!: with both PCBs plugged in and the DPDT switch in the Datel position, all inputs are permanently signaled (at least all buttons definitely are, I’m guessing the Windows control panel applet shows the stick stuck at neutral if left+right+up+down are all signaled, which is what I’m seeing).
[/list]

Unless I’ve done something wrong with the wiring, it looks like I might need to add some diodes(?). What’s the best way of figuring out where I’d need to put them?

Thanks!

Hey, are the default balltop and buttons Royal Blue? I ask because my eyes are pretty bad tbh.

I would not call it royal blue. Its not brilliant enough to be royal blue.
Its a tad darker that regular blue and a touch too gray to be royal blue.

I put a JLF pcb to replace the microswitches on the stock stick. It was a straight drop, which isn’t surprising. After lubricating the pivot, it works surprisingly well! Since most of the resistance in the stick comes from the rather stiff stock switches, the stick is now quite light to operate and very responsive. I don’t usually like low resistance sticks, but the return to neutral seems fine and it’s actually pretty refreshing to play on. I actually might recommend this mod over getting a whole JLF/LS-32 for folks that are on a tighter budget, given that they are ok with a lighter operation.

While your ordering a new TP-MA PCB for the joystick, you may as well order another spring, a stronger spring. Springs are pretty cheap.

Not a bad idea. Like i said, return to neutral is good, so performance (for me) isn’t hindered in any way. But as you said, they are so cheap that it doesn’t hurt just to have a spare one on hand.

Hey guys, apologies if this is the wrong thread, but I’ve ordered this stick and am in the process of designing my artwork. I know exactly what I want (it’s not an overly elaborate design by any means) but have no idea how to use software like photoshop or gimp etc.

Is anyone here willing to create my template for me? I’d be most grateful if I could get any help!

I might be able to help you :slight_smile:

Thank you brother! I managed to fiddle around with the template in Gimp and kinda get what I wanted, I just don’t know if I can ONLY resize Snake’s face so that it doesn’t get cut off by the stick hole if that makes sense? And I’m also not sure what colour balltop and buttons to use lol so creative input is definitely welcomed!

http://i.imgur.com/tL0VvzF.jpg

Edit: Just made a second design and now I’m not sure which one to use. Any input is appreciated fellas.

http://i.imgur.com/75Q3EWK.jpg

Second Edit: Just made a 3rd design and I really like it, think I’m gonna go with this one. Just found a random Hajime No Ippo wallpaper on google and it fit the template nicely.

http://i.imgur.com/AHO5aE0.jpg

Love the ippo template!

Also, re: sanwa switches in the stock stick. It feels pretty similar to a JLF. At first i tought it might be smoother, but then i realised my JLFs were quite worn and poorly lubricated. This being said i still recommend this mod.

Don’t know if this has already been asked, but is this stick compatible with Xbox? Reason I ask is because I was looking at the PCB inside the stick and I found the ports for the buttons had all been labelled with both the PS and Xbox buttons, so e.g. A/X, O/B and so on.