Did that mess up with the pad in BT mode too ?
i have seen an issues like that the dude have 2 differents ps4 stick (hori and mcz) both lost connection randomly.
He buy an usb hub or something like that then issues solved, may be it’s same issue for you.
Can anyone confirm what type of microswitches are used on the joystick?
I’ve seen plenty of people say the joystick is decent/average, but I haven’t seen a joystick breakdown yet.
Also, I’m updating the following topic and would love for a few Venom owners to look over the information to verify everything is correct or provide any missing info
DEFINITIVE PS4/PS3 RETAIL ARCADE STICKS LIST WITH INFO/FACTS/PHOTOS/ADVANTAGES/DISADVANTAGES/ETC
I’m no expert, but what would you need in order to determine this? I have the joystick in the venom box so I don’t mind sending pics or having a look for something in particular if you can direct me.
Disassemble the joystick and look at microswitches and possibly take photos.
They seem to be sanwa knockoffs (just like the rest of the parts) and they appear to use the same spacing. They are noticeably stiffer though.
Here is a semi serviceable pic of them
That photo won’t do the job. I’m looking for a brand name here guys.
No one expected the Sanwa knockoff Qanba joysticks to be any good, but they turned out to have Omron switches (same as Sanwa).
Everyone says the stick in the Venom is average/not bad. This could mean they are using quality brand switches.
I mod the stick in this video, if anyone wants to know about adding Sanwa parts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTow244MVxs&feature=youtu.be
They’re Lema switches if the parts are the same as the v2. Details here: MAYFLASH XBOX 360 / PS3 / PC Arcade Fighting Stick V2 Compatible with Sanwa Parts out of the box 69$
Appreciate the knowledge on the Mayflash v2, but I can’t put an IF into the description.
To add more fuel to the speculative fire, I remember the switches in my Mayflash V2 having an elephant and MIC stamped on them with no indication of who actually made them. I also threw them in the trash because they were super stiff and heavy.
The stick itself isn’t bad though, it’s some sort of hybrid between the LS-56 (pivot, short throw square gate and base assembly) and the JLF (switch placement, shaft, gate standoffs). I still ended up putting a Hayabusa in mine but the stock stick really isn’t bad with some minor tweaks.
I just checked ; they’re Lema switches on mine.
Is the control panel element removable from the main plastic body? Would this be a good stick to take the PCB from in order to mod an original condition Sega HSS-0130 with a Seimitsu joystick and Sanwa buttons? I’m sourcing my own replacement 1-player metal panel to replace the original 2-player one on the HSS-0130 and would imagine the control panel on the Venom could form part of some sort of project box.
Reason I’m thinking the Venom might be a good solution to making the HSS-0130 PS4-compatible is that it’s the cheapest stick out there and the mapping of wires and connections should be straightforward (as opposed to a pad hack).
Most I’ve ever done before has been button swaps really :s
Hi guys! Just ordered this thing online, looking forward to putting my LS-32 and Sanwa clears in it with custom artwork.
Quick question regarding the plexi - some photos in this thread have fully clear plexi glass to go with their custom artwork, whilst I see others with the button scheme printed on the plexi on top of the art (sinetwo’s awesome newbie guide also says that it’s already on it).
So is the plexi fully clear or are the button placements on it? Reason I ask is that I wanna change the stick’s button placement to the “n” layout for anime fighters. If it’s on there, can I remove it somehow?
It should be arriving this weekend so I should really wait and check but I wanted to print my stick art beforehand with the button scheme on it.
Thanks a bunch!
thanks man I am going to look into the usb hub. I stupidly didn’t think of that, will pick one up tomorrow.
The button mapping is printed on the plexi unfortunately
I think it would be very difficult to remove them without scratching the plexi.however a trick could be to make the background behind the printed button layout grey in those areas (same grey ofcourse) to mask them a bit?
Yeah as I feared. Oh well, might just go with the layout for now. Besides button configs are so convenient in most games nowadays, it’s not a huge deal I suppose.
Thanks for the replies!
Just an update, the plexi that came with my Venom actually doesn’t have the scheme printed on it. Weird, I wonder why not? :S
Fantastic news, since I can now change the layout to the “n” style…
…though I do have to reprint my artwork now… ><
huh, i wonder if there are other changes!
Four-hour job well done methinks.
http://i.imgur.com/8p7oJ0O.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VKpg25R.jpg
Swapped out the stock buttons and stick with my LS-32 (which took a bit to install, had to figure out which way to rotate it to get the correct directions) and Sanwa clears from my now-defunct modded MadCatz SE, and added new artwork too. Looks pretty decent to me, and feels great to use, nice and weighty and responsive with the stuff I modded into it.
Very chuffed with my purchase and changes. Thanks again guys for your help and info in this thread, and thanks especially to sinetwo, your guide to modding it was spot on.