I recently purchased two UPCB and I am having trouble set up the joystick and would like some help.
What is opt_con, what does it do?
Would someone let me know the specs for the hex nuts for the DB15 cable?
The package didn’t come with cables for push-buttons and joysticks. How can I make it myself? I use Sanwa buttons and both the sanwa JLF stick as well as the Happ competition.
For VGDURL, what does the “V” pin do? Sanwa and Happ only need 5 pins (Doing daisy chain) which is Ground, up, down, right and left.
This is the same question as Swamp’s in page 47 of this thread. Is the pin (Greyed out) on the lower left corner of output the one I should ignore.
For the female quick disconnect. I find there’s two 0.110 quick disconnect with different Tab Thickness, 1 is 0.02" and the other is 0.032". Which one should I use?
I wasn’t aware that there are two varieties. I always wind up loosening the tab to make it fit. Regardless of which size you get you can always modify them with some pliers and a flathead screwdriver, so its hard to go wrong.
Would anyone mind doing some trouble shooting for me? I’ve soldered up a upcb, the 2.1 version from the op, but my computers (Windows Vista and Xp) both recognize it as an unknown device. Also, the drivers aren’t recognized when I try to update them.
I’ve measured the upcb select cable, it seems to be fine. The cable on the soldering of the female DA15 to upcb is good too, though I might have misunderstood the correct ordering of the wires.
Other than that, I’ve got only two possible explanations. Either my pcb and/or its soldering is no good, or my pic isn’t programmed correctly. My pic programmer has an 18F4550 setting, but no 18LF4550 setting. I assumed it doesn’t matter that much.
Your soldering job looks fine, but i would reccomend cleaning the board off. Just use water and a scrub brush, and if its particularly stubborn use 409 or a similar product.
There is no difference in the programming spec between the 18f4550 and the lf4550, the lf just has different specs for voltage requirements.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Upgrade-the-Firmware-on-a-Universal-PCB/
Did you follow this instructable when setting up your firmware? and did you make sure to press start and select while plugging in the board? As your hardware seems to be ok, more specificty as to what you did to try to set the part up would be good.
My buttons aren’t in yet, so I’m not if they are pressed to open or to close the circuit. Anyway, I’ve tried plugging it in with:
Nothing special;
The start and select button short circuited;
The program button short circuited.
All gives the same response: the comp recognizes a device, but I can’t install the correct drivers.
Just to be sure I’d like to confirm my cables are wired correctly. This is a picture of the ribbon cable to the female DA15. http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2002/ribboncable.jpg
If you’d number the wires from red to blue then 1 (red) is soldered to pin 1 of the DA15, 2 is soldered to pin 9, 3 to 2, 4 to 10 and so forth. The blue wire isn’t connected to anything. I sure hope this isn’t correct.
From your 2) it seems like u just shorted the start and select, you’re supposed to short start select and GROUND together, that’ll engage them both and send u to bootloader mode, which lets u flash ur firmware. After that you should have a unidentified hardware message, if not check ur device manager for an unidentified hardware. Update the driver with the one in ur UPCB/MCHPUSB folder, then u shud be able to use the pdfsub. If you already tried shorting them to ground then u can ignore this. Good luck!
On a side note, props to toodles, i made one on a prototype board following his schematic and it worked like a charm. Thanks!!!
Ah, my bad. That’s exactly what I meant, I shorted them both to ground.
So this didn’t solve my problem. Does anyone have a suggestion? Can someone confirm my ribbon cable is wired correctly? Also, the correct wiring of the usb system select cable confuses me. The file systemselectlist.txt says that pin 9 should be tied high, while allusb.h says it shouldn’t be connected to anything. I’ve tried both but the results are the same.
A quick update on the SMT UPCB. I have confirmed that the boards do in fact work for non piggybacked systems (I’ll test as many as i can to be completely sure, but so far so good), I have not yet had a chance to test the piggyback circuitry, but that should be fine in a few days. I would suggest that anyone looking to fab these wait a while however, as there was a problem with a disparity between the drill files and gerbers I sent to my fab company. I’ll sort it out when i have time, but as far as i know the board works splendidly : ) thanks toodles for making this so easy to work with.
EDIT:
I just realized this, if you wired pin 1 of your header to pin 1 of your cable then something isn’t right, pin 1 of the db-15 is ground but pin 1 of the 16 pin header is RB4 pin TWO is ground. Go back to page one and open up the schematic, the necessary info to wire it correctly is on it.
I’m having trouble interpreting the “Option Output Header to DB15” part of the schematic. Am I looking at the male or female connector? What is the orientation? It has a numbering, but I’m not sure what the standard numbering of such a connector would be.
To clear up my confusion I’ve done some measuring. I think this are the correct naming of the pins: http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8424/pinnaming.jpg
To me, the most natural way of numbering would be to start at the white arrow http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3025/pinnumbering.jpg,
since this coincides with numbering my ribbon cable from red to blue. Strangely enough, this doesn’t coincide with the numbering in the schematic… Anyway, if one would stick with my numbering, then I’ve connected 1 to pin 1 on the DA15, 2 to 9, 3 to 2, and so forth.
It seems to me that I didn’t make any mistakes, but, heck, something’s got to be wrong.
I posted this a couple of pages back, but it seems that my diagram still may prove useful. Use the picture below when wiring the Output header to the DB-15. The color sceheme of the ribbon cable matches what you would get if you ordered the multi colored cable off Digikey that Toodles uses. Just crimp one end to the Output header, then follow the order and solder it to the solder cup end of the DB-15 in the order shown.
Thanks. I’ve soldered it just like that. Then at least that cable isn’t the problem.
I got my hands on some heavier measuring equipment and measured the frequency between pin 13 and 14 of the PIC (with the PIC on the PCB and the PCB connected to my computer). According to the schematic they should be connected to the chrystal. It turns out to be between 27 and 27.5 MHz. Is this out of the ordinary?
You still are trying to use pin 1 as ground it seems. Just do a quick test, stick a multimeter set to ohms with one lead on pin 1 of your db-15 header and the other on your ground test point. If there is anything other than 0 ohms your cable is not correct. Also do the same test on pin 8 of your db-15 and the Vcc test point.
Assuming you populated the oscillator with a 20 mhz crystal as instructed, the only way you should measure 27 mhz off it is a bad crystal or badly calibrated measuring equipment. Is the 27 mhz a stable clock or is it shaky? Assuming you really are seeing a 27mhz clock that could very easily cause the usb to malfunction.
I did the two measurements, they’re both ok; DB15 pin 1 to GND is 0 Ohm and DB15 pin 8 to VCC is 0 Ohm.
I’ve also replaced the crystal and both 15pF capacitors. Sadly enough my measuring equipment isn’t accurate enough to check the capacitors. I’ve remeasured the frequency and, strangely enough, it now measures at about 30 MHz… Tried installing the drivers too, no success.
Could there be anything else screwing up the clock?
are you sure the crystals you have are 20mhz? USB requires a specific clock frequency to function properly. How long ago was the scope you are using calibrated? is it possible its frequency measurements are off?
EDIT: Update on the smt upcb, I have gotten the piggyback to work, but am having a singular issue. If i start the upcb up with the piggyback cable plugged in the 360 pad attempts to turn on then shuts off, but if i plug the usb in first and then the piggyback cable it works, if anyone has an idea of why this is please speak up, in the meantime i’ll keep at the debugging.
