From the first post:
Q: How is this different from a project box setup?
A: Good question. First of all, you can use project boxes with the UPCB. Just ground pin 9 so the UPCB thinks its connected to a Neo-Geo, and make sure the project box pinout matches.
I’m assuming that a project box acts like a dual mod, but just to be sure… If a upcb and another common gnd pad were dual modded, pin 9 would need to be grounded?
Nope.
I just want to confirm, to make a Gamecube cable, all I need is the 5v, data, and one of the ground lines, but I also need to solder a resistor on the data line? Would a 1k ohm resistor be enough to drop the voltage down for the data line? I should be working on my cable hopefully tonight and just want to make sure that I am understanding everything correctly in the .h file. Thanks.
No resistor is needed.
Alright then, thanks. May want to update the gc.h that you are hosting in that zip file then as it told me otherwise in regards to the resistor.
“The Gamecube has two different sources of power, one at 3.43v, the other at 5v. We want to use only one. Because the data line’s High value is at 3.43v, we will be tieing the 3.43v line 6 to the Data with a pull up resister. We will be using the +5v to power the UPCB.”
This line is near the top, right under the diagram of the cable plug and the description of the 7 pins.
Will do. I found out after writing that that the gamecube already has it pulled high, so there’s no need to do it on the controller. Just the three wires is all.
Just making sure, but this also means that the Wii automatically pulls the line high like the Gamecube? This cable is ultimately for my Wii so i can play TvC with my stick in the next few months.
yup, wii does it too
Ok here are some newb questions.
If I have a HRAP EX is this going to work with it? 
If not I am going to buy a TE stick soon anyway.
But for a TE stick which is better a UPBC or the new Chutlu?
basically what I want is a stick that I can use on 360, PS3, Wii (gamecube) and Mac MAME.
Which would be the best option for a absolute newb?
Can someone post a link where I can find how to setup it all up with pictures, can’t find one that is simple to understand.
I want to avoid as much soldering as possible, does anyone make pre-made cables for gamecube and other systems that you can just plug right in?
Thank you very much :lovin:
Oh, yeah Toodles do you do installs too? If so can you PM me.
Sir, both the UPCB and MC Cthulhu require soldering. That said, the MC Cthulhu requires way less soldering than the UPCB, and there is a big fat sticky on the tech thread that details how to install one in a 360 SE with lots of pictures.
If having a multi-console stick is your biggest need, then I would order an MC Cthulhu and Imp board and, in the meantime while waiting for the parts, get some busted electronics and practice soldering on them so you can get comfortable with the process.
Cool thanks man.
I may have my friend who repairs consoles for a living do it for me, just need to get all the parts and instructions together. But if it’s not to hard I will do it myself, I just don’t want to break anything. Just want to play Tasunko VS Capcom when it comes out. 
Hello,
I’m looking at the AQBOM.xls document from the UPCB Rev 2.1 zip file, and noticed that the part numbers don’t necessarily correspond to digikey part numbers. Does anyone know which supplier those part numbers are referring to as I want to get the exact parts.
Thanks
Hi IKRENEGADE,
Way to go. Good job on the smt work.
The link you posted is dead, it seem that mediafire deleted your file. Do you mind upload it again?
Right now its good that mediafire removed the files, I need to finish up some small changes which will take a few more days. Right now I’ve verified that the board works except for the previously mentioned caveat with Xbox piggybacking, that should be solved soon however. Once I can guarantee that everything works properly I’ll output final gerbers, change the bom slightly, and update the readme.
Hi,
keep up the work! Placing this in SMD is worth all the efforts!
Bye,
Ben
Hey Toodles, I was thinking of using a NMOS to switch off the Xbox 360 pcb when no needed, since it’s gonna be off anyways I was wondering if the analog switch is required if this is done, reason I’m asking is because I already made the upcb and I didn’t order the analog switch last time, I got a bunch of PMOS lying around, so I figured i could use the xbox PB select to control the PMOS which then controls the 360 pcb power, do you forsee any problems? Thanks!
No progress so far on fixing the piggyback, I haven’t had much time because i have been working on other stuff. I do, however, want to show an example of an installed smt upcb : )
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u297/IKRENEGADE/Photo2-1.jpg
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u297/IKRENEGADE/Photo1.jpg
as you can see it has a significantly reduced footprint, I’ll add in my xbox padhack later when i can verify it is 100% functional
I also apologize for the terrible photo quality, I used my macbook’s webcam which mirrors everything. xP
Toodles, are you going to mass produce these boards?
I don’t know if you’ve figured this out yet, and i haven’t tried piggybacking myself yet, but is it possible that you’re drawing too much current from having both pcbs momentarily on simultaneously? I’m not sure about the boot protocol of the upcb as I haven’t looked at the code yet, but the fact that it works when you plug in the piggyback after the upcb booted and I assume the upcb goes to low power mode (since it switched to piggyback mode) might mean that you’re tripping the fuse when you boot them both at the same time. Maybe you can DMM the current and watch if it goes over? Just a thought, if you’ve found the problem then ignore 
Just a little question.
For my case, snes, genesis, 360, pc, ps2 are working fine.
But for my Saturn, R button is not responding or sometime give another signal?
I checked my cable but all is correct.
Anyone know if it’s normal?
In Street Fighter Zero 3 when you unplug a controller, the game came into break, like pushing start button.
Maybe when I push R, Saturn think it unplug the controller?
Edit:
http://a.imagehost.org/0945/DB15_023.jpg
Am I correct?