Universal PCB (eventually) thread

Oh I can always come up with D20’s. What color are you after?

Got 6 of the Nickel solder cup connectors with slim black housings. Here’s the parts for anyone else:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=972-15SBE-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1115MEA-ND

Pink-ish with white lettering, Black-ish with white lettering. I gots ribbon cable and IDC connectors. What else ya looking for that I can interest you in for a trade?

Flash or Ascii Flash wannabe. :slight_smile:

Um, geez - dunno otherwise. I’m not much into collecting “stuff”. I need a newer, faster drill press for these glass ball tops, but that’s really about it. Straight razor?

Toodles, I recently bought a 360 madcatz controller and tried a dual pcb. I was not able to get the button select cable to work on it. The 360 only recognizes it when I use a dedicated 360 cable. Am I missing something here or is this due to the new madcatz controllers?

http://picasaweb.google.com/psugamers/UntitledAlbum#5282419959541085314

When you’re using the button select USB cable, are you holding down the Fierce and Roundhouse buttons when you plug it in?

yes I did.

And here is pic.

http://picasaweb.google.com/psugamers/UntitledAlbum#5282419959541085314

When you plug it into a PC using a button select USB cable and holding down fierce+roundhouse, what shows up on the PC?

Alright, I’ve got my upcb all done. I’ve been testing it on my computer and ps3 by jumping the pins. Connecting fierce and roundhouse(according to the picture in the first post) works to enable the xbox360 piggyback board and it shows up plugging in normally to the pc and ps3. However, the extra two buttons don’t do anything for either and on the ps3 the button layout is as follows:
?-nothing
?-nothing
Forward
Short
Roundhouse
EX1?(registers as R2 in game)
Jab
Strong
Start
Select

Am I missing a button select for ps3? or something I needed to add or short for the extra buttons? I can’t verify the layout for the xbox piggyback since I won’t have access to my xbox until late January.

Does the code revision come up as #.##B or #.##BP when you plug it into a PC? If not, the extra two buttons aren’t working because the code doesn’t know the extra two buttons are there. Download the most recent release of the UPCB firmware, walk through the directions in the ‘Upgrading the firmware’ Instructable linked in the first post, and select either the ‘B’ (extra buttons but no programming button) or ‘BP’ (extra buttons plus programming button) version of the firmware.

Now, for the triggers on the piggybacked 360 pad, that’s almost certainly an entire different problem. Even if the UPCB firmware wasn’t a B version, the extra buttons should work on the piggybacked controller. If its wired for the triggers, then you won’t see any digital button presses, but you should see changes in one of the analog axis. You’re going to need clear pictures of the pcb before we’ll be able to help much.

Can’t believe I didn’t think to update the firmware… The 360 triggers were working before and after the update, and now the ps3 is working fine assuming that you have it programmed to have fierce and roundhouse to be R1/R2 rather than L1/R1.

Glad to hear it’s working. Fierce and Roundhouse should default to R1 and R2 respectively on a PS3

dumb question, but where can I buy the Universal PCB? :confused:

I’m pretty sure I’ve had more people wanting to buy a UPCB in the past week than I’ve had in the past 6 months. It’s been rather out of the blue.

At any rate, you get them from me, but I’m currently out. I have two assembled ones in front of me I need to test out, but once that’s done I’ll post up about it in the trading outlet thread linked in the first post of this thread. As for when I’ll get more in, I just don’t know yet. I’d really like a chance to tweak the board to make it at least a little more friendly to use, but time is not something I have a bunch of. So I don’t have an ETA on when I’ll have more.

Awesome. Just make sure you ship me out a PM about the assembled one once you get them tested, because I’m definitely still interested in grabbing one as per our talk in my thread in the trading outlet.

Hi Toodles if one of those UPCBs pre-assembled is still on sale I’ll buy it.
Just let me know and I’ll paypal you right now.
Just a question: this pre-assembled UPCB includes the parts needed for the optional functions like the piggyback, the six pin stick connector, NOT using the NeoGeo Converter, the ICSP and the Extra 2 Buttons? (I 'm refering to what is written in the UPCB instructables pages)
I’ll post this same thing in the trading outlet thread.

One assembled board just went up in the trading outlet thread.

Sorry for the late reply.
Definitely try the basic Smash scheme (Strong+Forward). It seems more intuitive and enjoyable to me. Either way, you know feedback is always appreciated. Of course it would be nice to know if you’re talking Melee or Brawl :slight_smile:

Weird. I can assure you that the directions are given equal throw. I’ll take a peek and see if maybe the calibration data is saying that neutral is off from center and see if that helps any. If not, then it’d be coded that way in the game which makes no sense. Now, there is something weird about down which I’ll get to.

With nothing but love, I’m not too concerned about how well it behaves in the menu versus how well it behaves in the game. In the advanced mode, all stick movement is 50% without Run, and 100% with Run. I have to be really careful because you can’t crouch unless the stick is all of the way down, and on platforms you can jump down from, you need a way to crouch without dropping down (down, then delayed Run)

Ah, sounds like Brawl. In Melee, there are two different shields, and IIRC there is more recovery after the full click (run + shield) than the light shield (shield button only). I may be thinking about L cancelling, but Im pretty sure there is a significant difference between the two in Melee.

Alright, I’ll try those changes and put up a new release in a bit. I need to add the xbox changes talked about earlier as well, so gimme a day or two.

Version 2.5 released!

Changes:
-Tournament mode commands are the same as before (up+start+select to turn on tournament mode, down+start+select to turn off tournament mode) but tournament mode will not turn off until the start button is released (so there will not be any accidental select+start command received by the console). If you need to turn on tournament mode without the system seeing a Start+Select command, hold Up before pressing them. As requested by DeepThoughts.
-Xbox (original) is a selectable option with a USB button select cable by holding Jab and Short when plugging in. If you have a USB->Xbox adapter, you can use that along with your button select USB cable instead of making a standalone Xbox cable if you like.
-Expanded Xbox commands. Thanks to kiimao and DeepThoughts.
Back+direction=right and left analog in that direction
Back+Jab:Left Stick click
Back+Short: Right Stick click
For Six button sticks only:
Back+Fierce=Left trigger
Back+Roundhouse=Right trigger
If both Back and Start are pressed, then the commands sent will be both the Select commands above AND the original commands.

I’ll be working on tweaking the GC stuff for a little bit, so if anyone has any suggestions on other light tweaks, please say so soon while I’m in UPCB mode.

GameKyuubi: Can you tell me which code revision you use? (XP, BP, X, etc). I’ll get a custom hex up for you to test so we can get it solidfied before releasing in the codebase.

I am using XP … I think.

Ugh. So I’ve had the board sitting in an anti static bag since I last reported that it was working(I think my dad took it out once to look at my solder job.) I recently got in my order of buttons and stick. I wired them up and the joystick works fine, but most of the buttons were activating 2 or 3 buttons at a time when connected to the pc/ps3. I removed the button cable and went back to just jumping the pins, which has the same problem. I tried to update the firmware to 2.5bp which didn’t help. I then tried using the 360 piggyback board which registered fine. Any ideas what the problem might be? Maybe my pic got messed up or maybe somebody torqued the board and broke some solder points?