It’s been a learning experience and I’m glad it’s finally done. Did you ever figure out what was up with the other one?
Here’s a bizarre one for you: My upcb works flawlessly at home on multiple ps2s, xboxes, etc. When I take it to a new location (e.g., the last 2 tournaments I’ve been to), the buttons are remapped to some random new configuration. I re-map, save via prog + start x3, and it’s fine until I come, when I have to do it again. Could the cold temperature during travel have something to do with this?
Nah, not yet. Just havent had time.
Nah, not the temperature. The only things I could see causing something like that are either someone plugging it in with the three kicks down, resetting all of the button mappings, or that your button config in the game itself, on your console, is different from the default button config used in the game. You may have short mapped on the UPCB to PSX button ‘circle’ and have it work at home, but if the default for short on the PSX is X, then the buttons will be all weird whenever you arent using your own personal save.
Take out your PS2 memory card and start up a game, see if your button config magically changes 
I always use default button mappings and so were the consoles at the tourneys. My save games are set to default, and the tourneys weren’t using mc’s at all. And I definitely didn’t have any buttons pressed when I plugged it in. Nevertheless, they were consistently mapped incorrectly, and I had to re-map them everytime I plugged it in until I realized I could save them with prog + start x3. After that it was fine.
GameKyuubi: Don’t feel bad, I did exactly the same thing… IDC headers… blah!
I also took a couple apart, NEVER doing that again. Horrible, horrible.
Hi Toodles I’m interested in buying an UPCB.
Do you have anyone left now that you can ship?
Some price questions:
1-PCB only?
2-PCB with all the parts but NOT SOLDERED/PROGRAMED?
3-ready to play UPCB?
4-shipping (I live in Italy)
Thanks.
1 & 2 :Prices are available here:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?p=3991373#post3991373
PIC price is same programmed vs not so I just go ahead and program them anyways. UPCB PIC programming is always free from me.
3: Uh, not currently possible to get an assembled one.
4: Overseas shipping really depends a lot on the options you want for tracking and all. If you don’t care about tracking (regular airmail) then please include $20 for shipping and I’ll refund the diffrerence from actual shipping. If you want UPS or FedEx, then expect it to be around $50; again, I’ll refund the difference from actual shipping cost.
Hey so I made a GC cable. Have you gotten any feedback on the Smash controls? I’ve found for the most part that they work, but there are a few discrepancies I’m noticing. I’ll let you know after tonight. Could you give me a link to the most recent version of the Smash controls/setup activations?
So yeah, finally wiring mine up - a year or so later. 
The XB360 piggyback leaves a second cable danging out the back right? One db15 and one usb?
You make a usb cable with dsub just like all the other cables and just put it on when you want to use 360.
I’m not much of a Smash player so feel free to criticize away. If you can tell me how you want it to act, I can put it in, but there hasn’t been a single person trying the upcb on Smash that I know of until you.
Ok, so I’ve been trying the advanced Smash control scheme.
- My first observation is that the control stick “analog” does not seem to give equal “throw” to all directions. For example, I can run left (without using the run button) but I only walk right.
- Down doesn’t work in the menus unless you are holding the run button. I believe this problem stems from the one above.
- Default shield button wasn’t working. I had to use (Run) + Shield to get the shield to work.
Some configuration recommendations:
- I believe the “run” button should be changed to a “walk” button. Possibly with a throw of less than 50% (I suggest trying 25%). Obviously the default behavior of the stick should be 100% throw then.
- I believe the button layout would optimally be
A B (Jump)
(Shield) (Grab) (Walk)
With the C-stick function being Short+Roundhouse (Shield + Walk). - Default shield behavior should be full-click unless “Walk” button is held, in which case it should be the smallest pressure possible that still yields a shield.
- Holding select should emulate the D-pad on the stick (for taunts), but upon release without a direction held should default to uptaunt.
Please ask if you would like clarification. I am a somewhat cumbersome writer.
Also, please correct me if I’m mistaken. The startup command for SSB Advanced is Fierce and Roundhouse, yes?
Heh - hadn’t realized how cumbersome setting up SSB would be on a digital stick.
Also note that I was testing it in Brawl. Not sure how much of a difference there would be between Brawl and Melee.
Anyone got a source for solid quality d-sub 15 male hood+connectors? Rat shack doesn’t carry them anymore.
I get mine from Fry’s.
Yeah, well I live in the midwest. Fry’s is on the west coast.
Digikey #972-15SY-ND
That’s for the yellow version of the ones I use and like. You can see it and the other available colors and part numbers here:
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T083/P0290.pdf
(The black ones have a black anodized metal thumbscrews; rest have shiny metal thumbscrews.)
Thanks man, I appreciate it. I’m going out of town on vacation, taking several PCB’s with me to wire up, including my UPCB. It looks like I lost some of the ribbon cable that came with mine, so I’m going to have to get creative.
Got any more d20’s? We can work something out