Universal PCB (eventually) thread

First step would be to plug the stick into a PC with all three kick buttons held down (or shorted, your choice), and see if that helps any. Test it out in the control panel applet. If it still happens, unplug the the piggyback pcbs and repeat. If the problem persists even with the piggyback pcb’s no longer connected, write down the button numbers that each button triggers and post it up.

The three kick buttons did the trick, what exactly did that do? Are there any other button selects besides start+select, fierce+roundhouse, and three kicks? Is there a list somewhere that I’m missing, seems like a list of them and their function would be really handy.

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate the quick responses especially at these weird hours.

Heh, I keep weird hours. Night owl by nature, and with classes out, I went straight to my ‘up till 4 am’ schedule.

The three kicks combination works with ANY cable, not just PC. Added in version 2.3, to every version including the ones that don’t support button remapping. It resets all of the button mappings to default. I had a guy with his buttons mapped weird and no program button, so he couldn’t change them back, and the newer code versions don’t overwrite the EEPROM the mappings are set in.

As far as I can think of, that’s the only button combination that does something on every cable and every code version.

The others that I can think of from memory:

Button Select USB cable:
Start+Select: Bootloader mode
Program: Bootloader mode
Start: Stick directions are reported to XY axis (PS3 left analog) instead of both XY axis and POV simultaneously
Select: Stick directions are report to POV hat (PS3 D-pad) instead of both XY axis and POV simultaneously (I may have these backwards)
Jab+Short: Xbox1 mode (just added in 2.5)
Fierce+Roundhouse: Use Xbox360 piggyback

Gamecube cable:
Start: Stick is reported to D-pad only instead of both D-pad and left analog
Select: Stick is reported to left analog only instead of both D-pad and left analog
Strong+Forward: Smash Brother Basic mode
Fierce+Roundhouse: Smash Brothers Advance mode

Genesis cable:
Select: Three button mode instead of default six button mode (just like the ‘Mode’ button on the original controller)

Gah, I must be dense.

On the 360 console cable, am I able to just use the USB cable I already made or PC/PS3, or is there another cable? I’m not seeing a .h file for it…

Getting ready to piggy-back my 360 PCB now. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t going crazy about the actual connection. :stuck_out_tongue:

You can use the button-select cable thing, yes. So one usb cable for pc/ps3/360 :slight_smile:

Well this is…confusing and annoying. The Instructable says there’s 20 conductors on the piggyback. There’s only 16. Signal and ground for 6 attack buttons, select (back) and start. Nothing for directionals, and nothing for Guide…?

(wait, no…I’m stupid. Only one ground is needed, not both…so I have no idea what the pinout is for this 16 pin header)

That’s odd… I have 20.

Edit: actually, there are 19. I forgot there is one that isn’t used. You got 6 buttons, select, start, L, R, 4 directions, GND, VCC, D+ and D-, and then guide.

The UPCB in the instructable looks nothing like mine. I have 3 16 pin headers, not a 16 and 2 20 pins.

Okay, so since I got on the first batch, I have a Rev 1 board. So I’m going to go ahead and make a WAG and say it’s this:

15: D+
16: Ground
13: D-
14: HK
11: RB0 (Runs to the stick’s start button)
12: Select (Back?)
9: MP
10: MK
7: LP
8: LK
5: Left
6: Right
3: Up
4: Down
1: FP
2: VCC

If I’m wrong, bail me out. :stuck_out_tongue: That means the solder points on the other side of the board for RA0 and RA1 will need to be wired up manually. I’m not seeing an RB4 (there IS an RB5) or an XBOX_PB_SELECT (which won’t matter, because I’m not switching). I suppose RB5->Guide, and RA0 and RA1 can be ignored since I don’t have those fourth punch and kick buttons.

Well, I need to leave to deliver other sticks to good little boys and girls. :stuck_out_tongue: I’ll take mine with me, but I can’t change any soldering. I’ve wired up m 360 PCB as listed above. If I plug into my 360, the guide LED’s spin and spin, but never settle to show me as player 1, player 2, etc. Holding FP and FK as suggested in the instructable makes the 360 PCB not light up. Plugging into my mac, it still shows up as a UPCB even if I hold FP and FK. I can’t upgrade the firmware until tomorrow, so whatever firmware it came with is what it’s running right now. :stuck_out_tongue:

The rev 1 boards’ piggyback connector can be seen in the DC piggyback instructable:
http://www.instructables.com/id/SNNWM2HF54HJ3LV/
It’s the same as the Rev 2 without the final four pins (17, 18, 19, and 20).
pin 15 is for D+
pin 13 is for D-
There’s isn’t a pin specifically for the guide button on the rev 1 connector. If you absolutely have to have one, I’d suggest soldering a wire to the guide button on the 360 pcb, and soldering the other end of the wire to here:
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/3369/upcbrev1uj0.jpg

Dear Toodles,

Will illuminated buttons (Sanwa OBSA-45UK-K/W-LEDR, LEDs say 12V) work with the universal PCB, or will that draw too much power? Planning on using the PCB for x360/PS3/PS2…

Love,
Sleazoid

So does pin 12 get wired to the “back” button?

Even with something to bump up the output from 5v to 12v, I can’t imagine LEDs taking up enough juice to over power a usb port for PS2/PS3, and i’m pretty sure it’s been shown that the PS2 can support LEDs from the vcc line.

I have no idea for certain, but I don’t think those LED’s will. IIRC, those are made to have the 12v power source connected directly to them and has the appropriate resistance inside of it. However much power they are supposed to get from a 12v power source, they will be getting MUCH less on a regular 5v power source or Playstation 3.3v. But, there’s no reason to give up hope. Pick one up, see if I’m wrong and try it out. If it doesn’t work, open it up and take a peek at the LED; see about replacing it with one that would work well under 5v.
Anything’s possible, but I have no idea how difficult it may be.

Yup.

Thanks Toodles, that got me looking in the right direction.

I need to get batteries to supply the +12V and use diodes to keep it from interfering with the +5V from the controller, and connect the grounds. This stick is going to cost me more than my last computer upgrade :rofl:

For interfacing with those buttons, there’s nothing really special about the UPCB. What I’d do if I were you is hunt down and see if you can find info on projects done by other people using those kind of lights using regular console controllers. It would not surprise me in the least if other custom controller fans (Beatmania, Pop’N’Music, whatever) use buttons or lights like those. If you can find someone that’s used them with any kind of console, you can see how they rigged them up to work with the console +5v or +3.3v. Once you know that, using them with a UPCB should be easy.

how much for just a x360/ps3 converter?

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t think those are sold here and aren’t the function of the UPCB. Granted, you can install one in a PS3/360 stick but it doesn’t really convert anything…

Are you guys sure about the Button Select USB cable working on the 360? The piggyback.h file says basically that you need a different cable. Is there a doc that states what button combinations do what?