Universal PCB (eventually) thread

[System_1]

Hi Toodles,

I finally got to assembling the upcb. It works like a charm Thanks for fast shipment and awesome packaging job.

to the topic:
How do I enable these two extra buttons on the upcb rev. 2.1 ?

Cheers

[Toodles]

Hi Toodles,

I finally got to assembling the upcb. It works like a charm Thanks for fast shipment and awesome packaging job.

to the topic:
How do I enable these two extra buttons on the upcb rev. 2.1 ?

Cheers

Hardware-wise, everything is already there. If you have the extra two buttons on your stick, flash the firmware with a ‘BP’ or ‘B’ revision. It’s kept optional to keep compatibility with the earlier model, and also because I can only remap 8 buttons at a time; the BP version can’t remap Start or Select, but the XP and LP version can.

Glad to hear everything worked out ok. Please post up pictures of the stick in the ‘I love my custom’ thread; I’ve only seen pics of maybe 3 completed UPCB sticks.

[Kuprin]

WOW those are some big .1uF’s! Make sure those big green baddies are .1uF’s. The capacitor code on them should be ‘104’; I suppose the exact value shouldn’t matter too much since it’s there to clean up the power going to the PIC, but you do want them to be less than 1uF each.

Two things Im seeing I’m worried about.
#1 I don’t know what you have in the spot for the PTC fuse. Its probably some other sort of fuse, but the ratings on fusible resistors seem to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. So, just check the resistance through that thing for now, or replace it and jumper those points with wire.

#2. The two small capacitors next to the crystal are there to help clean up the very fast clock signal. Now, I dont know any models or anything for the crystal you’re using, but I have used crystals that have been in those large metal cases before. All of the crystals I have used required capacitors in the range of 10-30pF. The capacitors on yours have markings of ‘223’, which gives them a value of 22x10^3 pF = 22000pF= 22nF. The capacitance in those capacitors is 1000x higher than I’ve ever used with a crystal. Granted, I don’t understand capacitors or crystals as much as I would like, but it seems the extra capacitors to ground would distort the crystals signal. If I were in your shoes, I hunt down a datasheet for that crystal, and find the recommended ratings for caps to smooth it, and then get those. If you can’t find a data sheet, I’d order a pair each of 22pf, 15pf, and 30pf and try those starting with the 22pf.

EDIT: 'nuther possibility to try for the crystal would be a 20MHz three pin ceramic resonator. The outside two pins would go through the holes where the crystal is, while the mibble should be bent and connected to ground. With one of those, you don’t need the two pF caps, or the 1MOhm resistor. If you end up placing an order for parts, I recommend you pick up a couple; they’re like 50 cents each.

They are .1uFs, the only ones I could get my hands on at short notice were 100v capacitors.

#1: resistance too high to measure. Interesting…this fuse was specifically rated for 5v for these guys. Should I scrap the fuse for now and just be careful? Those PTCs are a bitch to get, but my girlfriend can actually get me some in a couple weeks.

#2: They’re marked 22_J_, not 223. They’re actually 22pf.

That said, I think it’s our fuse, then?

[System_1]

Thanks, I’m going to check that later. I bought it specifically for my HRAP, so nothing earth-shattering here, but I sure will post a couple of pics when it’s done :}

[Toodles]

#2: They’re marked 22_J_, not 223. They’re actually 22pf.

That said, I think it’s our fuse, then?

Oh shit, so it is, my bad.

All of the power going to the UPCB from the either the edge dsub or the IDC ribbon->dsub goes through the PTC fuse points. Honestly, you could probably have 5 ohms going through there and still be okay, but I’d prefer <1 Ohm. If the resistance is too high to measure, then there is almost no current going through, and definitely not enough for anything to work. Remove it, jumper it with a wire for now, doublecheck there is no short between VCC and GND test points, then try your USB cable again.

Thanks, I’m going to check that later. I bought it specifically for my HRAP, so nothing earth-shattering here, but I sure will post a couple of pics when it’s done :}

Mine’s inside a nothing special HRAP2 case, so I know what you mean. There are some flashy sticks in that thread, but NONE are anywhere near as useful as ones with a UPCB. What can I say? Im a utilitarian.

And then there is Valaris’s UPCB stick. Pretty and useful, all shiny and black. drool

[Kuprin]

Okay, got the fuse desoldered; still no good, still saying device not recognized, this is with no buttons/prog jumpered.

Note: I’m reading about 2.6k ohms between vcc and ground test; depending on the device this can be good or bad, but at 5v that looks fine to me.

[Toodles]

That’s what I figured, I’m on that as you posted. As soon as I can get that fuse desoldered (it’s a bit of a bastard) I’ll test it and keep you posted.

The two unused points next to the PTC spot have a trace connecting them. If you want to try and measure the current used with the fuse in place, cut the trace between those unused points, and connect your multimeter in current mode to the two points.

Or just yank the PTC and try with a short, your call.

[Kuprin]

I just tried it with a short. The fuse is bunko. Still no good though…same problems. ><

I’m using a “known good” PIC from you, but I’m honestly leaning towards bad PIC again. Any way I can confirm?

[System_1]

I’ve been experimenting with interfacing a microcontroller to a PSX, and I think I see the problem with the PSX code and adapters. I was poking around with an oscilloscope, a HRAP lowers the ACK signal about 10-12us after the final clock of a byte, and the pulse lasts for 1-1.25us. The HRAP doesn’t seem to vary it on relative to the clock speed (converters have ~10-12us clocks, PSX has 4us). I don’t think the pulse length is too critical, but shortening the delay before the pulse too much causes some of my converters to stop working. Using those figures I’ve gotten a “3in1 PC joy box”, “Super Dualbox Pro”, an unknown PS3 converter, and a Gemini Xbox/GC converter working.

Also, has the UPCB PSX code been tested on a console with another controller plugged in? Just from reading the code I suspect there might be problems, possibly if the UPCB is in slot 1 and has square held down. I disable the USI module when the ATT line is high, and reset the USI clock whenever it goes low.

[Toodles]

I’ve been experimenting with interfacing a microcontroller to a PSX, and I think I see the problem with the PSX code and adapters. I was poking around with an oscilloscope, a HRAP lowers the ACK signal about 10-12us after the final clock of a byte, and the pulse lasts for 1-1.25us. The HRAP doesn’t seem to vary it on relative to the clock speed (converters have ~10-12us clocks, PSX has 4us). I don’t think the pulse length is too critical, but shortening the delay before the pulse too much causes some of my converters to stop working. Using those figures I’ve gotten a “3in1 PC joy box”, “Super Dualbox Pro”, an unknown PS3 converter, and a Gemini Xbox/GC converter working.

I’ll definitely be looking at the ACK line when I get time to work on the converter support, certainly. The duration of the ACK line should be constant, based on the controller though, so that should be easy.

Also, has the UPCB PSX code been tested on a console with another controller plugged in?

Oh hell yeah it has. Works great.

The problem with converters has to do with the SPI module on the 4550. The current SPI mode used reads at the wrong clock change and changes the output on the wrong clock change, compared to what a legit PSX controller would do. Nonetheless, the PS2 and the UPCB read each other perfectly. The SPI mode I should be using, according to the datasheet, doesn’t work. I end up missing the last bit.

From what I can tell, there is an errata for the 4550 chip and the SPI module dealing with this problem, so I have to delay a bit before reading the value read from the SPI module. So I have a plan for when I get working on this, Im just lacking time to work on it.

[Lionx]

Sorry if this has been answered already but is there any place we can find pre-wired or pre made PCBs for the Playstation 2? Because the ones in the controller itself is pretty hard to wire, so i was wondering if there was an actual square looking PCB board that is purchasable somewhere(like the one in the SF Anniversay stick). It would save alot of time, thanks in advance.

[DeepThoughts]

I have a question about the 2 optional status LEDs. Can they be wired to light when certain buttons (e.g. PROG or LK) are pressed? I’d like to do some lag testing with various games, consoles, etc.

If they cannot be used as such, then will the guide below apply to the upcb, or would there be a complication?

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=149015

[Toodles]

I have a question about the 2 optional status LEDs. Can they be wired to light when certain buttons (e.g. PROG or LK) are pressed? I’d like to do some lag testing with various games, consoles, etc.

Could be done, sure, but you’d have to put in yourself. There’s very little to anything that turns the LEDs on or off. The only real use they’re setup for is for testing the code on new consoles.

If they cannot be used as such, then will the guide below apply to the upcb, or would there be a complication?

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=149015

That’d be a better idea. The UPCB is all common ground, so that stuff would work just fine. Just be carefull how much current you pull. More than a couple hundred mA and you’ll trip the fuse.

[System_1]

I’ve gotten this working and I’ve moved on to the xbox 360 piggyback but have ran in to an issue.

(Using the PC/PS3 USB cable - the one used for programing/testing on the PC)

–When I have the piggyback controller plugged in to the UPCB board the LEDs on the controller flash once but that’s it, the PC doesn’t even recognize it as a controller.

–When the piggyback is NOT plugged in it recognizes on the PC and works fine on the PS3 etc.

–Any ideas why it would flash the 4 green LEDs on the controller PCB once and not be recognized by the PC as a controller?

I have D/L’d the Microsoft controller support already. I also tested all of the pins in the 20 pin connector that’s attached to the UPCB and they work. I’ve wired this up using the Instructables (and did a damn good job- 3rd times a charm :wonder:).

Help.

Thanks.

[Toodles]

When the USB is NOT plugged into anything (no PC or xbox), but the piggyback is connected, what’s the resistance show between VCC_TEST and GND_TEST?

If the piggyback is connected and you plug it into a PC WITHOUT holding the fierce and roundhouse buttons, did it show up as a normal UPCB stick? (From memory if you can, please dont try this before answering the first question.)

[System_1]

If the piggyback is connected and you plug it into a PC WITHOUT holding the fierce and roundhouse buttons, did it show up as a normal UPCB stick? (From memory if you can, please dont try this before answering the first question.)

When the piggyback is attached to the UPCB, whether I hold the buttons or not, it does not register as a controller. When I remove the piggyback from the UPCB it registers as the UPCB controller in the Control Panel>Game Controllers. Holding the buttons or not, the 4 tiny LEDs on 360 PCB flash for a second so maybe it’s getting power?

–Do I need to make a dsub15 cable for the 360 to use it on the PC?

[Toodles]

When the piggyback is attached to the UPCB, whether I hold the buttons or not, it does not register as a controller. When I remove the piggyback from the UPCB it registers as the UPCB controller in the Control Panel>Game Controllers. Holding the buttons or not, the 4 tiny LEDs on 360 PCB flash for a second so maybe it’s getting power?

Check the resistance in the first question. It sounds like too much juice is being drawn by the piggyback, which trips the PTC fuse, cutting off power to the whole UPCB, piggyback included. Check the resistance to be sure.

–Do I need to make a dsub15 cable for the 360 to use it on the PC?

Same USB cable you used for PS3 works on PC, and Xbox360 piggyback (whether connected to a PC or Xbox360. Just hold down fierce and roundhouse when plugging in. )

[System_1]

Check the resistance in the first question. It sounds like too much juice is being drawn by the piggyback, which trips the PTC fuse, cutting off power to the whole UPCB, piggyback included. Check the resistance to be sure.

Thanks! I’ll do this when I get home here in a bit. Is there a value I’m looking for? e.g. Should I compare my reading w/o the piggyback plugged in VS. the piggyback plugged in?

Same USB cable you used for PS3 works on PC, and Xbox360 piggyback (whether connected to a PC or Xbox360. Just hold down fierce and roundhouse when plugging in. )

I saw in the “piggyback.txt” file that the 360 had one pin difference. This doesn’t matter in regards to using it on the 360?

[Toodles]

Thanks! I’ll do this when I get home here in a bit. Is there a value I’m looking for? e.g. Should I compare my reading w/o the piggyback plugged in VS. the piggyback plugged in?

Just amke sure you leave your analog meter connected for a bit until you’re sure the needle has stopped moving. It SHOULD be right around 2.5k ohm.

I saw in the “piggyback.txt” file that the 360 had one pin difference. This doesn’t matter in regards to using it on the 360?

That’s if you want a dedicated cable, one that works for xbox360 piggyback and nothing else.

[System_1]

Just amke sure you leave your analog meter connected for a bit until you’re sure the needle has stopped moving. It SHOULD be right around 2.5k ohm.

Okay, I think the piggyback 360 pad has a short. On the “x10” setting on my analog I get about a 2 on the meter. On the “x100” setting I get a 0. On the “x1k” setting I get the same.

Are there points that are more likely to short during assembly? How do I check for a short? I removed both analog pieces and installed the 4.7kohm resistors like you instructed. Could this have anything to do with it?