Oh yeah, that’s a problem.
Most likely place for failure is whereever you did the most work. If you yanked the analog sticks, then yes, that’s the first place I’d look. Time to start taking and posting pictures.
It works! Those 2 points were soldered on the wrong points. Everything is running good. Now I just need to wire the madcatz 6 button dreamcast pad up for the DC piggyback.
I was having issues with the mounting the UPCB inside and the epoxy being a bit brittle.
What I’ve ended up doing is heating a very small nail on the stove (holding it with pliers) and pushing it through the plastic casing where the holes would be on the UPCB.
From there I took the screw and inserted it in the hole, all while screwing it in to a nut on the inside of the case.
The screws I have a flat head a look like this…
/__\ on the head.
The reason I’m mentioning this is that I was able to take a old soldering iron tip, attach it and heat the plastic between the case and where the head of the screw meet. This allowed me to screw/melt the head in a bit. Letting it cool, I find it’s a bit more stable that the epoxy I had.
After that I simply placed the UPCB on the 4 screws and attached another nut. So the I have, top to bottom, nut>UPCB>nut>HRAP casing>flush/set in screw head.
Be careful no to heat it to much and push the screw all the way through though. I plan on doing something similar with the holes on the 360 PCB to stablize it inside as well. For the DC mad catz PCB I’ll probably use rip ties through holes to mount it in as well.
LED diagram to fit in a stick’s buttons
Toodles,
Tingboy thinks this looks good but told me to verify with you. I’ve copy/pasted from a thread of mine.
"*What do you think about this layout? I did this diagram on LEDLinear1.org. It’s for 8 LEDs (3mm, 20mA each) that I plan on connecting to the UPCB (5v). I’ll be using white ones.
Solution 0: 1 x 8 array uses 8 LEDs exactly
±—|>|—///----+ R = 100 ohms
±—|>|—///----+ R = 100 ohms
±—|>|—///----+ R = 100 ohms
±—|>|—///----+ R = 100 ohms
±—|>|—///----+ R = 100 ohms
±—|>|—///----+ R = 100 ohms
±—|>|—///----+ R = 100 ohms
±—|>|—///----+ R = 100 ohms
The wizard says: In solution 0:
each 100 ohm resistor dissipates 40 mW
the wizard says the color code for 100 is brown black brown
the wizard thinks W resistors are fine for your application
together, all resistors dissipate 320 mW
together, the diodes dissipate 528 mW
total power dissipated by the array is 848 mW
the array draws current of 160 mA from the source.*
The idea is solid, but I seriously think youd be better off with at 220 ohm. Resistors are cheap, get a grab bag and try them out. That’s still a lot of power, and the amount of power goes up geometrically if the LEDs don’t have the 3v drop expected. 220 would be the minimum I’d use, and I’d look for ways to use 1k ohm instead.
Okay - I don’t see any issues with using 220’s in place of the 100’s as long as it’ll work. I’ll grab a small board and wire it up before I install it. If I used 1k’s do you think it’d not work? Maybe I should go with something in the 300’s?
Oh - and would these be 1/2 watt or what?
As long as you’re using 220’s or greater, 1/8 watt should work fine, 1/4 and above will definitely be fine.
Using different value resistors wont make it ‘not work’, it will just change the brightness of the LED; before you wonder if 1k’s are only 1/5 as bright, that’s not entirely true; theres some weird logarythm math involved. Just try 'em.
BTW, since they are in parallel, you can test one at a time. The brightness of each individual light will not change when you add the other 5.
hi,
When the USB is NOT plugged into anything (no PC or xbox), but the piggyback is connected, what’s the resistance show between VCC_TEST and GND_TEST?
If the piggyback is connected and you plug it into a PC WITHOUT holding the fierce and roundhouse buttons, did it show up as a normal UPCB stick? (From memory if you can, please dont try this before answering the first question.) :annoy::annoy::annoy:
Ummmmm, yeah, I’m gonna need you to try that again. Four smileys, two letters and a comma don’t give me much to work with.
Hey, I was thinking about picking up an optical stick, and I’m running a UPCB with a 360 piggyback. From the schematic on the first page, the UPCB already has a 6 pin header for running voltage to one, correct? (Can’t check the one I have right now.
If I switch to piggyback mode on the 360, the +5V will still go to the stick, correct?
Finally, any suggestions on where to get a 6-pin header to use on it?
Correct, specifically for that exact purpose, like a Sanwa Flash, Suzo Inductive, or Perfect 360.
I just want to make it very clear that we’re talking about the exact same connector used the connecting the stick normally; it has six pins: GND, VCC, up, down, left, right (and definitely not in that order). Most people only use GND and the four directions, leaving an unused spot on the connector. The six pin ‘OPT_CON’ connector should NOT be used for this; you can get the power straight from the exact same connector your stick plugs into.
Correct
Is there any reason you can’t use the one already connected to your stick? Solder or otherwise connect a wire where you need the +V to go on the stick. Grab one of the extra crimp pins for the stick connector (everyone’s kit should include 7 pins) and crimp it onto the other end of the wire, and insert the pin into the existing connector.
Yup, understood.
ASCII opticals have their wires soldered directly onto the circuit board - no pins on the PCB. So it would be a hell of a lot easier to just attach a 6 pin connector to the end of the existing wires than desolder and resolder an pre-made harness to the PCB.
So you need a new connector and pins? You can either get one froma electronics supply place (its a Molex type KK connector with six pins) or PP me a few bucks and Ill see if I can dig one up for you.
Yeah, if you have a part # for the header and pins from someplace like digikey I could order it myself. I need to get a couple other parts from them as well, unless you have a male/female set of 6 pin minidin connectors lying around you want to sell as well.
Digikey part numbers for everything are available in the assembly Instructable.
1x 6 pin Molex KK header : Digikey# WM4204-ND (This is the male part on the board)
1x 6 pin Molex KK connector: Digikey# WM2004-ND (This is the female part your wires go in)
6x Molex KK crimp pins: Digikey# WM1114-ND (crimp pins that go on the wires to be inserted into the female part. Buy extra just in case)
Doh, sorry.
I finally got around to soldering my UPCB yesterday but I can’t figure out wich way the tantalum capacitor supplied with the kit is supposed to go (wich side is positive?).
Sorry if this is a stupid question, I just don’t want to mess up the whole PCB by putting it in the wrong way…
I tried to take a picture, but my crappy camera couldn’t focus on the part close enough to read the markings…
Yes, I was looking at that, but the markings on mine is different than in the picture. Also I don’t quite understand how the text on that capacitor marks the right leg as positive…
There’s two vertical lines of text, and one of them includes a plus sign, so the leg on that side is supposed to be positive. I’ll admit, it is hard as hell to read those, that’s why I put up a scan on one. If you can read the text, then the leg on the right is positive. Also, the tatalum caps still use the normal ‘the longer leg is positive’, rule all other caps do, so if you put the longer leg in the hole marked + you’ll be golden.
Ok, I was able to read the lines on it, I just wasn’t able to make the connection between the lines and the legs, maybe because both of them are on the left side…
Thanks much for the help, I’m gonna put it in now and I’ll be done with the board.