I was r/wing whatever was flashed onto the ones Toodles sent me at first, haha. I’ll try that.
Noob question here. Is it preferable to use a camera that records at 60fps instead of 30fps to look for lag ?
Are you wanting to check for lag with the upcb?
A typical US tv displays about 30fps, so recording at 30fps would get them all.
Better yet, wire up a UPCB button with the matching button from a common ground controller for that system. start a 2P game, and hit the button. Press the button a few times, and then swap player 1 controller with player 2 controller. Hit the button again a few times. If they do the same move at the same time, it should counter hit both players. If one controller wins all of the time, the other controller is lagged by comparison.
Kuprin, sorry for the delay, I’ll post up some stuff for you to check later today.
I was looking around the net for an arcade stick for playing emulator games on my old xbox and came across this thread… after reading through it (+ the instructables) the geek in me (that would be most of me, actually) couldn’t be stopped, I had to have this! Already orderd the Seimitsu parts, and I’m signging up for an microchip.com account pronto… Just wanted to tell you that your my hero all day today… :bgrin:
Also, would it be possible to add a function to the xbox controll to simulate the pressing of the right analog stick? since that is used to bring up the menu in most emulators, and also to turn off XBMC…
Appreciated!
Sure. Any particular button combination you want it to be?
I haven’t really looked into wich ones are taken, start+select(back) is already taken, right? I think any combination start or select + 2 of the punch/kick buttons would work great… (not the trigger buttons though, cause L+R+start+back reboots my box)
Well from what I remember of FBA-XXX, there’s a ton of pad only type crap a bunch of emulators require, so let me know if you think of any others we might need. How about:
Back+direction=right and left analog in that direction
Back+Jab:Left Stick click
Back+Short: Right Stick click
For Six button sticks only:
Back+Fierce=Left trigger
Back+Roundhouse=Right trigger
Any other suggestions? These are easy to add, so go nuts.
I think that should just about cover it :tup:
Maybe moving both analog sticks at the same time could cause a problem in some games? I dunno…
A typical US TV… ?
Your questions are have nothing to do with the UPCB; please take them questions elsewhere, like the stickied threads in Tech Talk or to your own thread.
From this, would Back+Roundhouse register as Back+Roundhouse+Right trigger? If not, how about a combination for start+back+Left Trigger+Right Trigger so we six-button users can reset our xboxes.
On a related note, how about changing the tournament mode to something that doesn’t require start+select? This resets many games (e.g. 3S), which require you to press start to begin the game. There’s probably a workaround, but it would still be nice to disable start without resetting the game.
I was thinking of having the combinations above be with Back only, and if Back+Start, it will be the Back combination plus the actual buttons. So Start-Back-Fierce-Roundhouse would show as pressed Back, Start, White, Black, LT, and RT. How does that sound?
Hold Up before pressing Start and Select 
That’s fine.
Edit:
That works for enabling TM, but disabling TM still resets. It’s not a big deal though.
I wouldn’t say nothing to do with it because the first thing I wanna do when I buy one is actually test for lag.
I’m still down, regardless of firmware. I’m quite stumped, there’s no visible wiring fault anywhere.
Post up a picture of your board with as much detail of the parts you used as possible (IIRC, you got the bare PCB’s from me.) A scan of the bottom along with a few good close pictures of the top for different angles would be best.
Do you have a solder cup female db-15 around? Those can be placed on the edge of the board and make decent contact without soldering as long as its lined up right, and would give you a way to test the cable worrying about the connection between the board and the db-15 mounted on the case.
Got lots, can test that, and I’ll grab some pix in a bit.
Okay, got pix of the board.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/ShadowmasterNeko/P9180219.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/ShadowmasterNeko/P9180220.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/ShadowmasterNeko/P9180221.jpg
WOW those are some big .1uF’s! Make sure those big green baddies are .1uF’s. The capacitor code on them should be ‘104’; I suppose the exact value shouldn’t matter too much since it’s there to clean up the power going to the PIC, but you do want them to be less than 1uF each.
Two things Im seeing I’m worried about.
#1 I don’t know what you have in the spot for the PTC fuse. Its probably some other sort of fuse, but the ratings on fusible resistors seem to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. So, just check the resistance through that thing for now, or replace it and jumper those points with wire.
#2. The two small capacitors next to the crystal are there to help clean up the very fast clock signal. Now, I dont know any models or anything for the crystal you’re using, but I have used crystals that have been in those large metal cases before. All of the crystals I have used required capacitors in the range of 10-30pF. The capacitors on yours have markings of ‘223’, which gives them a value of 22x10^3 pF = 22000pF= 22nF. The capacitance in those capacitors is 1000x higher than I’ve ever used with a crystal. Granted, I don’t understand capacitors or crystals as much as I would like, but it seems the extra capacitors to ground would distort the crystals signal. If I were in your shoes, I hunt down a datasheet for that crystal, and find the recommended ratings for caps to smooth it, and then get those. If you can’t find a data sheet, I’d order a pair each of 22pf, 15pf, and 30pf and try those starting with the 22pf.
EDIT: 'nuther possibility to try for the crystal would be a 20MHz three pin ceramic resonator. The outside two pins would go through the holes where the crystal is, while the mibble should be bent and connected to ground. With one of those, you don’t need the two pF caps, or the 1MOhm resistor. If you end up placing an order for parts, I recommend you pick up a couple; they’re like 50 cents each.
Sorry, I spoke too soon on this pad. I guess the ground is common, but there are resistors between the button grounds and the main ground. Adding a 5.6k ohm to each button and connecting all the button grounds to main did the trick. Thanks to Devilsfang for the help.