do wireless usb adapters work for the ps3 and/or these pcb’s ??
I have no idea what you’re talking about. The only ‘wireless usb adapter’ I’ve ever heard of are the little plug in sticks you use for wireless 802.11 networking. If there’s some sort of two piece thing for making USB devices work wireless, I’ve never used them.
Urk… I already sealed it in the box. There was a combination of Right and I think it was Fierce that was doing it as well. It would also occasionally lag if I did an Up+Left diagonal.
Alright, opened, tested, repackaged and sent.
The only laggy combo I could get without using Fierce or Roundhouse was Up+Left diagonal, and that was inconsistent, unfortunately.
Don’t sweat it, I’ll get it figured out. Glad your cardboard stick is up and working.
Seriously, great job on the wiring.
I just got my pcb kits in. I was wondering, is there an updated instructables for the Rev 2.1 layout? The labels are slightly different than the ones in the instructables. (which is 1.0)
No, there isn’t an updated instructable. The first post of the thread has an image that shows what goes where; the steps for assembling it are the same for where everything is. Follow the steps in the instructable, use the image in the first post to see where everything is and you’ll be golden. There is a step in the instructable for jumpering two points next to the PTC fuse; you can ignore that step because the trace is already on the board.
Let me know if you have any questions.
On the v2.1 jpg, I see 17 points for the 4.7Ohm resistors, do I place them all? The instructables say 15.
Yes. The extra two are for the two extra buttons, which were optional on the first board.
The easiest way to put the board together, IMHO, is to solder the IC sockets, since I’ve been putting them on before shipment to keep the legs from getting fubar’ed. Then, solder in the single 1MOhm resistor, then the two 22 Ohm resistors, and then just use the 4.7k resistors on every resistor mark left.
off topic/sorry :sad:
Will you make a new thread if you decide to offer the other PCB (Cthulu)?
No worries. Yes, I’ll have make a separate thread for that. Now that my test is done (CLEP Chemistry test. YUCK. But I passed) I can put time into working on it and get the first batch of boards done. I’m trying to come up with a brillian way to deal with USB and DPST switch when dual’ed with an xbox360, but hope to have board order put in over weekend, and start selling 2 weeks after that when it arrives.
I’m trying to piggyback a madcatz dreamcast pad—the one pictured here
http://pmc.pixelhosting.net/mamecab/mad_catz_IMG_5697.jpg
The problem is the grounds for the buttons are not common (neither with each other nor with the directions). Can I just daisy chain all the grounds together?
Likely not, but I’ll let the master answer properly.
The real reason I replied, which is completely off-topic, is that I finally saw Double Dragon (the movie) last week, and now your avatar makes sense 
Abobo… that spinach really turned him around, huh…
Heh, I wonder how many others have seen it and just thought “what is that thing?”
One more question: can anyone who has gotten xbox to work confirm the info on xboxusb.h? I’ve made two system cables, and neither works. I know it’s not the board because I bought it assembled (from the master) and it works on everything else. Most likely it’s my mistake (twice) but I just wanted to be sure before beginning the painful troubleshooting process.
I could have sworn that pad was common ground. If you’ve looked at it and don’t think its common ground, then it may just be easiest to put it back together as a pad and hunt down an Agetec PCB. Those are an absolute cinch to work with, and take up 10% of the space of that one.
If you want to fully check it, what I’d do is take a multimeter to each half of the pads when its plugged in and look at the voltages. Touch the two halves together with something conductive, maybe a penny, and read the voltage when the button is pressed. If the voltage when pressed is high, say over 1 volt, then you definitely can’t use it. If the voltage when pressed for everything is low, then you most likely can. There’s no need to ‘daisy chain the grounds together’, the UPCB will take care of that since it uses the real ground from the system itself.
Not me; Im pretty sure I saw an Abobo pic in a preview and decided to never ever see that crapfest, even though I can still recognize it as an Abobo.
I just checked the xboxusb.h against the systemselect.txt, and they match, so Im sure they are accurate. I can take a multimeter to my cable if youd like 100% verification. I will say that all of my xbox are modded with a TSOP flash, but I don’t really see how that should matter. I have tested it on both legit games (Cvs2 EO) and xbox emulators. The only thing that comes to mind as a possible problem is the numbering of the pin on the Xbox end. In the xboxusb.h, they are listed as 4 5 3 2 1; as odd as that sounds, that’s how I’ve seen them numbers on other sites and is NOT a typo. But really, if you go by the color of the wires inside the cable, it should be a cinch.
One thing I am not 100% sure of is whether or not the controllers on Xbox1 are region locked. The productID appears to indicate which reqion or device it is, according to this page:
http://euc.jp/periphs/xbox-controller.en.html
The UPCB Xbox code gives the product ID of 0x0202, shown on that page as American. Where I get a little confused is that my S pad I tested gave product ID 0x0285, which is a japanese pad according to that page. If anyone knows for sure whether controllers are region locked, I’d definitely love to hear it. If you have any way of using one of your Xbox controllers on your PC, I can show you how to find out the productID your pad is using, and make a .hex file using the productID, just to rule that out as a possible problem. Of course, if you have some sort of Xbox->USB adapter, you should definitely test it out on the PC using the XBCD drivers; if it wont work with those drivers on a PC, then there’s definitely a problem that needs fixed with the cable.
And, as always, make sure you’re using the most recent version .hex.
Don’t worry about it, but thanks for your other explanations. I’ll let you know if I get it working.
Edit: Ok, I changed from 2.4BP to 2.4X and now xbox works. Does this mean I can’t use extra buttons or the program button?
Toodles, I just had a thought, if you got Wii I2C working it would also enable people to ditch the USB cable and use bluetooth on their PC. It’d be pretty cool and shouldn’t be terribly hard to implement.
That’s true, but they’d still have to have a wiimote attached, and be draining batteries like mad. Replacement for USB? Nah. The USB is a lot easier to get up and running since you don’t have to setup the wiimote and connection on the PC, but it would be an option for those who really really want wireless from the PC if they have a bluetooth point. The bootloader will pretty much always require USB.
Well, I’ve got chips, I’ve got a programmer that is known-good, and I’ve got the chips you sent me back as well, Toodles…and I’m still getting unknown device, both with ones I programmed myself and the good ones you sent. I’ve run through your tests and they seem to be passing, NeoGeo test (short pins 1-9, test pin 3 while toggling select) fails (always high) though. Not sure where best to go next.
Which hex are you using? I was getting that with BP until I switched to X.