UnholyKnight's Megalo 410 Restoration

It supports all 3. It has a jumper that selects the following modes:

Jumper position1: Auto detect 15/24 khz
Jumper position2: Dedicated 31 khz

I’m heading right now to finish the cabinet, but I don’t think I’ll be online again until Friday night. So either Friday night or Saturday I will post completed pictures as well as video and also answer anyone elses questions that have been posted in this thread.

If anyone wants to see anything specific to the cabinet post it here and I will get a picture of it for you! I can check the forums tonight, but my posting abilities will be limited.

show me a close up of that side back where there looks to be a switch and inputs along with a fan grill

im curious what those are for

also is it just me or is the 1p layout angled while the 2nd player isnt’

/\ You’re right. That’s just how 2-player japanese cabs are. How thick is the overlay? Too thick for Snap-ins?

Hmm, I thought Megalo’s were 50"? Nice work though dude, if I really get into this stick modding stuff, I might try something similar.

it supports 31khz?

This is the sexiest cab I have ever seen.

The Megalo 50, Super Megalo and Super Megalo 2 are all 50"

The Megalo 410 is 41" (hence the model number).

Can you take a close up photo of that panel on the back right, under the fan? Those look like A/V and VGA connections…

Megalo 41 for $400…GREAT find. That cab is teh sex.

I need to find a seller near me. >_>

I mean’t to ask, what boards can you put in it?

Yes, the angles are correct. That is how they are on Japanese arcade machines so you can sit comfortably angled from the screen.

The side by the fan has added VGA, GAME Port, and RCA’s. These are NOT stock, they were added by the previous owner, who was an electrical badass.

also the Super Megalo 2 and the Megalo 50 are sit-down models.

The megalo, like almost any other cabinet (>70%) comes ready to play any standard JAMMA game, it has a neat built in feature where a kick harness is built-in, negating the need for the usual extra wiring.

They sell adapters to change between standard: JAMMA -> NeoGeo for example.

I am currently using a set-up that allows me to run a PS2 through my JAMMA connection.

There is a jumper on the monitor board that has settings 15/24khz and 31khz. 1st position autodetects if the signal is 15 or 24, the second position is dedicated 31. I don’t have anything to test the 31 khz with, but since the option is there I’m guessing it supports it. If I ever get something that can run at 31 khz I’ll test it out, just te be sure.


On the pics and video, my PS2 control box is b0rked so I am waiting on a shipment of a replacement, however all of my buttons and sticks are now wired up so that when the replacement comes in I should be ready to just plug it in and go.

I have a few more pics of the work area and everything out and a mess, but I won’t be able to upload them until early afternoon Saturday when I am back home. I live about 40 mins from my parents where I go to college, since I don’t have a garage, el oh el apartment, the Megalo has to live at their house for now.

Thanks for all the responses and everything, I’ll keep trying to check back at least 1-2 times a day to get everyone questions / requests taken care of.

Rollie’s page is blank. How did you contact them to get your CP?

If figure i can get it, and the overlay, and just not have the other 4 holes on…

Unholy,

Since you are using happ buttons, did you have to rewire the JAMMA harness to accept cherry microswitches?

You have to get ahold of Rollie’s catalog via the Build Your Own Arcade Controls Forum, the catalog is listed here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=36770.0
Just shoot him an e-mail as instructed.

I didn’t get the panel from Rollie, I got it from a different member of those forums, there are places online that sell the panels if you search around some. Look for Astro City control panels on google and you should find some places, or look in the BYOAC forums or killercab.com forums.

I’m guessing your fairly new, or have little knowledge, regarding circuitry and wiring. Electronic tasks such as wiring controls seems so make people run in the opposite direction. Wiring is a very very simple task, the easiest thing to do aside from snapping or screwing the buttons into the panel.

All that happens is that there is a 20AWG wire acting as ground and a 22AWG wire as the connection. Touch the ground wire to the connection wire, and the character on screen responds (IE: Ken throws a punch). So all switches do is connect the wires when the button is pressed. There is no rewiring necessary, ESPECIALLY of the JAMMA harness, you should NEVER need to rewire your JAMMA harness. And if it comes down to a problem getting that bad I would just get a new harness, since they don’t cost but $10-15

A few pictures from last night with the machine all in pieces:

For screen pictures I’ll need to use my tripod and no flash on the camera, the flash washes out the screen picture.

:tup:

everyones gotta learn somewhere man. We’ve all asked the stupid questions before, myself included. But he is right, arcade machines are amazingly simple things. With the exception of working on monitors, everything can be done with little to no experience in electrical circuitry and wiring. Even monitors though are do-able with the wealth of information on the internet.

Looking good though man. How loud is the fan on that thing anyways? Does that cabinet have JVS ready connections and a 3.3v PSU in it already?

I know, I didn’t mean for it to come off as an insult if it did, that why I went into a little bit of a lesson there, wires aren’t going to kill anything, you do not need to worry about poking around inside of arcade controls, its when you get near the monitor that you risk injury or death if you’re careless :lol:.

Already had a PSU and JVS ready.

And I would say all wiring is easy except crimping molex pins. It is still simple, but its a lot more tedious than quick disconnects.

awesome! Youre pretty much set for anything then. I know making those crimping those pins is a real pain and I really cant justify spending over 100 dollars for a tool specifically for that. Just takes a little more forearm strength. There are some molex connector that are self stripping with the pins already in them. Not sure if you would have much luck finding matches for them though. If you dont mind my asking where do you source your connectors anyways? I am having a terrible time finding some JST connectors I need for my Qsound board and am close to hacking the existing wiring to make it compatible with molex. Hate to alter the cabinets original wiring though.

JAMMA is a japanese standard. And the japanese don’t use HAPP buttons. They always have 30mm holes for sanwa or seimitsu buttons which have 2.8mm terminals. You’re using cherry microswitches which have 4.8mm terminals. Did you rewire your cab or was the last guy using happ buttons as well.

I have a brand new jamma harness infront of me and neither the ground terminals nor the button terminals are going to fit cherry microswitches.

By “rewire” I meant recrimp, sorry.

Yea, I don’t have the special tool so I have female molex pins crimped onto my wires, and then I wrap the molex in electrical tape and plug it into its respective pin. This way the connection is made and the tape keeps it from touching other pins in the male molex connector.

Molex set-ups are very convenient, I love the one I’m working with. Only bad thing is if you accidentally break a wire or unsocket one its hell to get it back in properly. I already had it happen once :lol:

JST connectors? I haven’t had to buy any yet, but Radio Shack tends to have the more specific parts I need, I did a quick search on google and it turned up a bunch of online sources.

The Megalo 410 is set-up in a unique way to combat and eliminate this problem.

As you can see in this picture of the control panel, there are 2 molex boxes. One is for Player 1 and one is for Player 2, the middle one is for Start buttons, test and service switches. Then you plug your controls into these molex’s. The JAMMA cable is a special cable fitted internally to the Megalo 410, so the controls from the JAMMA loom are wired into the Molex boxes for control wiring.

On the Megalo 410 this is what the end of the JAMMA loom looks like and where it plugs in, to make it clearer I can take a picture of an unconnected Megalo 410 loom and post it in the thread tomorrow afternoon.

I think you’ll find that common with all japanese cabinets. My astro city has the same setup with the multiple molex connections right underneath the control panel.