Finally got my decoder was sent 23/04 and arrived 12/05 here in Brazil.
I’ll start testing and post the results here.
Thanks Briann
I’ve had a few people ask for help sourcing USB panel mount connectors to use with UD-USB decoders. Here’s are some examples of what is out on the market.
ROUND MOUNTING HOLE:
Multicomp 2UB3001-W05101
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/218qFV5DbvL.jpg
Exposed (front) thread, plastic body, pre-wired (no soldering), 4" cable plugs dirctly into decoder. (Cheap/Reliable source ~$5 + shipping)
Harting 09454521901
Hidden (rear) thread, metal body, adapter (requires additional USB cable to connect to decoder) (Reliable source ~$20 + shipping)
Clarion CCAUSB
Hidden (rear) thread, plastic body, pre-wired (no soldering), 5’2" cable plugs dirctly into decoder. (Cheap source ~$16 + shipping)
Generic Panel Mount
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m3PgF3uuNfTtvvzJYFXjqdg.jpg
Hidden (rear) panel snaps, rubber/plastic body, pre-wired (no soldering), cable plugs dirctly into decoder. (Cheap source ~$11 shipped)
Neutrik NAUSB-W & NAUSB-W-POS
Screw/Bolt Mount, metal body, adapter (requires additional USB cable to connect to decoder). (Many sources ~$7 + shipping)
Switchcraft EHUSBABX
Screw/Bolt mount, metal body, adapter (requires additional USB cable to connect to decoder). (Cheap/Reliable source ~$7 + shipping)
SQUARE MOUNTING HOLE:
Amphenol - MUSBA111M0 & MUSB-A511-00
Screw/Bolt mount, metal body, requires soldering, super robust. (Digikey is a good source ~$10 + shipping)
Generic Panel Mount
http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mKZgvNe0q_Mmgba94rO-wtQ.jpg
Screw/Bolt mount, rubber/plastic body, pre-wired (no soldering), 10" cable plugs dirctly into decoder. (Cheap source ~$3 shipped)
Generic Dual Panel Mount
http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mx6cVOGm0FCVcmvVBqq2-NA.jpg
Screw/Bolt mount, rubber/plastic body, pre-wired (no soldering), cables plug dirctly into decoders. (Cheap source ~$5 shipped)
Generic Panel Mount (5-Pin)
http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mNJsuqKOb5vw9eo9oJrRt9Q.jpg
Screw/Bolt mount, rubber/plastic body, pre-wired (no soldering), 12" cable plugs dirctly into decoder’s USB Aux. port. (Cheap source ~$2 shipped)
If you would like to do your own searching, key phrases would be “panel mount usb”, “flush mount usb” “industrial usb”, etc.
Besides locating your USB connectors, you will also need to find a way to mount the indicator LED for each port somewhere. I will expound on this in the near future (waiting to test some parts).
-ud
I wonder what size the Harting 09454521901 mounting hole needs to be. Would be really cool if you could mount it into a button plug. 
Data sheets, son. 22.3mm. Should fit into a 24mm button hole comfortably 
-ud
I’m going to install neutrik usb ports to my CRT and have players plug their sticks in there! This way I can keep the arcade board behind the TV and out of reach of clueless people.
Hey guys, I just recently wired mine up, and one of them is faintly glowing (blinking?) orange/yellow, and the other one has no light whatsoever on. I traced all my leads back and it seems like all the connections are good, and they are on the correct 5v setting jumpers (I’m running both of their 5v leads to the 5v on the power supply). Any ideas on what is happening? I didn’t wire the test connection to my 2nd USB converter, if that makes any difference. I plugged in a PS3 stick and I can’t get anything on either of them to respond, could it be that my power supply doesn’t have enough juice? I did have to crank the 5v pot quite a bit for the CPS2 board to power up correctly back before the inclusion of these converters.
Any help at all would be great! I’m sure it’s something I’m missing on my end.
double check your power and ground
To be more specific, use a voltmeter/multimeter to verify the actual voltage powering them is 5V.
-ud
I’m getting 5v at the one that isn’t responding (the second one, that isn’t lighting up) and closer to 7v on the one that is faintly glowing yellow/orange.
I’m going to be pretty annoyed if this arcade power supply burnt out a converter. I don’t know what could be causing the load discrepancy, same type of wire used for both!
Before installing my converter I’m looking at the forum to see possible difficulties that people are having I’ll then also struck me this question the voltage my power supply is giving v 6.4 where it should be 5v if I install the converters with this voltage will they burn? what would be the limit of the acceptable voltage converter ?
yes
Due to the construction of the USB adapter, the 5 volt regulator will die if you over power it.
Wall Grants, you might want to use a resistor or diode to drop down the voltage to 5 volts first.
And don’t put the power in backwards
I was told it needs to raise the supply voltage to properly feed CPS2 why this giving this voltage difference.
If I download the correct voltage to 12v and 5v my CPS2 will work correctly?
Something is messed up with your setup. It’s impossible to get 2 different voltages from the same point. And if you’ve powered the decoder with 7V, all bets are off. You should always check your voltages before hooking things up.
I don’t understand why people think they need more than 5V to run CPS2. I run my CPS2 at exactly 5V. The decoders need exactly 5V (or within a few hundred milivolts i.e. 4.9V-5.1V). The USB port on the decoder uses 5V to power the USB controllers you plug into it (USB specification is 5V). If you run the decoder above 5V, you may damage any controller you plug into the USB port.
-ud
I see it like this, if the device needs 5v, then it only needs 5 volts nothing more and nothing less.
Electronics are picky like that. And I spoken to UD last night about the USB encoder construction, there really no way to make the the UD USB encoder more resilient and keep it’s size profile and cost down. High end, Military grade voltage regulators are bulky and not cheap.
Its why I added so many warnings on the Jamma thread. At least here were talking about low end DC voltages, with a Arcade Cab or Super Gun we also have to deal with 110 volts AC which will case components to explode and fires to start.
People really need to brush up on their electronics knowledge before wiring up a Adapter for a Jamma harness.
my power source was changed to generate a little more 5v for determination of the person who sold me the CPS2 said to feed the sound card required a little more energy than normal 12v and increasing the supply voltage change 12v 5v simultaneously.
Now coming to you who are experts this information I will adjust to the correct voltage. thank you
Weird thing with various Jamma boards are every board requires different amount of power.
Some needs a (negative) -5 volt line and some are very particular how much power is on the +5 volt line.
For off shoot or subsections like a video converter or a USB encoder, you might want to get a multi meter and make sure the 5 volts supplied to your UD USB device is just 5 volts and not 6 or 4.5 volts.
I need to wire up 1 more wire to make sure, but I believe that you can use this decoder inline with a pad hack to allow you to use PS3/X360 pads and sticks on a PS1. Does that sound about right to the rest of you?
PS3 pad->UD decoder -> pad hack project box-> PS1 or whatever old console.
@ShinjiGohan
Yes… BUT: the old consoles might not actually be providing the correct current/voltage to run the padhack, the UD-USB, and the PS3/360 controller.
It’s also technically the only to end up with an adapter (as of now) to get your PS3/360 arcade sticks to work on a PS4/XBO as well.
To that point, it did work successfully on my PS2. Though the voltage was too low on player 1 port to power it, player 2 port worked fine.
This wouldn’t be as elegant of a solution, but you could potentially steal 5V from the PS2 USB ports, if the actually controller port isn’t enough. And, out of curiosity, is the PS2 pad 5V logic or 3V? And you adjusted the pull up jumper on the UD-USB decoder accordingly, right?
-ud