Popped two of these into my Supergun360 (The “Check out my Supergun!” thread). Now both front-panel USB ports on the classic X360 casing are usable for my arcade boards.
It’s SO MUCH more convenient than having a project-boxed FGW Converter hanging from the front. 
Can’t wait to come up with more uses for these things.
You could also probably wire up the alt. LED signals from the decoders to 2 of the X360 ring LEDs, since those are also bi-color red/green
-ud
I hate you. Now I have to open the damn thing up YET AGAIN because of your amazing work. 
You da man!
Just finished making some panel top USB/LED extensions for the cabs being used @ X-Mania USA and Tournament of Legends II. I started with some of these Logitec USB extensions (got them here: www.ebay.com/itm/151171054018):
I drilled a hole for the bi-color LED, made the cable entry larger, put on some cable sleeving to keep the LED wires and USB cable together (and look nice), and glued things in place:
They can be foam taped to the control panel without the need for drilling holes in the cab body. @Bernie is routing the cables through the coin return slot:
-ud
Where are the instructions for button mapping?
Also, If I understand correctly, buttons 1-4 on the converter map out to X/Y/RT/A on the 360 pad, right?
undamned sent them to me
That’s correct. Although, they’re actually labeled as P1/P2/P3/K1/K2/K3, which, like you said, map to X/Y/RT/A/B/RB respectively by default on the 360 controller (and whatever the corresponding button on Sony controllers are).
Oops! Forgot to e-mail you a manual after your order! Sent!
-ud
Been following this for a little bit, just wanted to put down my interest for one or two of the coming 8+3 version boards. This is amazing work undamned!
Ok i have a question which may just prove my noobness. I want to use the panel mount usb cable though mine is missing the shield pin. So 4 pins not 5. Will this cause issues or will i need a 5 pin?
Thanks
That’s a great question, actually. Shield is optional. It can help protect signal integrity in electrically “noisy” environments, but in most applications, it would not likely be necessary. It’s one of those “if you got it, use it” situations.
-ud
Thanks for reply. One less part to buy.
Small Update: Even though DB15 (what @d3v, I said it) version will obviously only support 6 action buttons (3 punch/3 kick) + Start & Select/Back on the DB15 connector, I will be making 8 action button + Home button signals available via solder points on the PCB itself for you hacker folk. Those extra 3 signals will not be 5V tolerant, only ~3V, but will be perfect for non-arcade applications where you are joining this thing with other ~3V boards.
I was pleasantly shocked after recently realizing that I had room on the PCB for those extra pads At this point, unless I move to the next smaller part sizes (QFN on the processor, 0204 resistors/caps, etc.) or get rid of the part labels, this thing is pretty maxed out!
-ud
Earlier someone said that these would work perfectly, but they are a little out of my price range: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8601
I’m not exactly a pro with mounting PCB’s, I get the idea (plastic or metal standoffs? Sandpaper and glue or drill holes in the case?) so I was going to make it as simple as possible, by placing 2 UD USB Converters in individual project boxes, and then a project box for the video converter, and then the arcade power supply would remain in it’s housing.
Do USB extensions (so that I wouldn’t have to line up and mount the PCB perfectly) incur any additional input lag?
I think I’ll just go to Radio Shack and see what little boxes they have. The most I’ve ever done was build a PC and installed a motherboard throughout my life, but otherwise I’m a little new to this.
Why would they? It’s just wiring. Input lag only happens when the signals are processed in some way or form.
Unless you’re going past the recommended maximum 15’ length in USB wiring.
USB extensions won’t cause input delay. USB signals don’t degrade until it’s something like past 25 feet, so you’re good to go.
As for mounting, the world is your oyster. You can get nuts+bolts+plastic washers or even just Zip-ties run through some drilled holes. Heck, you can even place it sandwiched between thick layers of foam or weatherstrip that’s glued to the sides of the box and lid.
Self adhesive Velcro
I ended up buying an ABS project box from Radio Shack for highway robbery prices, but forgot standoffs because I’m a genius. I think I’ll end up using a drill press to make holes for the USB ports and video converter (S-Vid/composite) cables as well as the standoff holes I’ll need… can’t think of another other better way to really secure them in the box.
Yeah, just get the stuff mounted quick and dirty. After your initial phase of playing, go back and re-build it all neat-like.
-ud
use countersinking screws. Measure out the mounting holes, then drill a hole and use a countersinking bit so the screws sit flush on the box. Secure the screws in place. I stand them off from the box with a single nut. The board is placed on the nuts, then is secured with a nut for each screw. works great in a pinch.