The PS1 dual shock pad has 2 voltage points, a 3.3 for buttons and 7.7 for rumble. So I tapped the 3.3 and set the jumper to 3v.
For stealing the 5v from the USB port, I was thinking of that, but couldn’t really think of a nice way to do it. Only idea that came to mind was to use a USB hub and connect that to the UD USB decoder. Then plug in the stick to hub as well as a USB cable from the PS2 to the hub.
Besides that the only other solution that I could think of was to get a PS2 to solely use with the decoder. Take it apart and severe the 3.3 wire to the controller port and solder the 5v from the USB port to the controller port. But that would likely overload the controller thus ruining the pad hack.
Another possibility would be to hack a USB cable and send that cable into the project box along with the PS1 controller pcb and tap it that way.
But at this point when the console generations 2 above the PS2. PS2s should be cheap enough to just buy another one and not worry about it.
Ok, that’s your problem. The Pull-Up jumper is not selecting supply voltage. The Pull-Up jumper selects what logic level you want the button signals pulled up to. The screw terminal version of the decoder can technically run with 3.3V feeding the “5V” terminal, but the USB controller you are plugging into it certainly cannot. “5V” terminal means 5V for a reason
That’s what I was referring to when I mentioned stealing 5V from PS2 USB port.
Without doing any digging, I’m guessing the 7V on the PS2 controller port is used to run the rumble motors, which means it can likely provide a lot of current. If that is indeed the case, a solid power solution would be to tap the 7V line from the PS2 controller and use a 7805 voltage regulator to drop it down to 5V to power the decoder.
-ud
I took a few pictures whilst setting my decoders up, I figure you guys might find it interesting so here it goes!
Here’s my pre-udusb setup. Custom 2 player stick by Br0ken_Engli5h hooked up with DB15 to a supergun MAK strike made by bencao74/arcadeforge.net. Powered by an old PC power supply and hooked up to a Toshiba CRT i found in the trash at my old apartment building
I had some problems getting the decoders to work when using my maplin bought 15 core cable. I can only assume there was some sort of short in the cable somewhere but the boards simply wouldn’t work when I used this cable. I settled with using lots of individual pieces of this solid core cable I found in my big box of discarded tech stuff… Messy!
I tidied it up a little bit with some cable ties and gave them their first play test session with a few local guys. Everything’s working perfectly at this point but I can’t use this setup to run tournaments on, with the exposed PCBs and loose wires something’s bound to go wrong.
My original plan was to build some proper cases for the decoders and sit them either side of the CRT (which I’ve upgraded to a much nicer Sony Trinitron) with the arcade board itself behind the CRT out of sight. With my new plan of mounting neutrik adapters to the CRT in the distance and my first all USB tournament a couple of days away, I had no time or money to build cases for the decoders… A little duct tape later, I had my very own idiot proof, finger proof USB supergun!
Made an account to say that this is a fantastic idea. I’ve wanted something like this for years (especially for NG AES). I look forward to the production versions, and hope supply can keep up with demand.
In that case, time to do a digital audio mod CPS2 does actually have I2s digital audio which can be handled like the Sega Saturn digital audio mod (convert to S/PDIF), I believe. Never tried it, though.
-ud
Brian was traveling to work and only got to test my converters now however it was not successful as my power supply is oscillating much I called the converters in other external power supply 5V and put only 3 punches JAMMA only make a rapid test for I’m out of time.
the converters are only with the green led and not enter into mapping mode
you could explain to me why it did not work? I can use other power source other than the JAMMA? or so I have to ride all buttons and commands to it please mapping mode?
in the image below explains better what I did
thank you
Regular arcade power supply should be fine. I’m not sure what you mean by “JAMMA Positive” in your photo. To enter button mapping mode, hold 3 buttons on your PS3/X360 controller while plugging in. Keep buttons held down until LED blinks Green (takes ~3 seconds). Did I send you an instruction manual for the decoder?
-ud
Sorry for the bad English I’m using google translator. Yeah Brian you send me the manual, when I refer 3 positive jamma is who are the 3 punches without GND only understand the positive
now installed with all the drive and directional buttons worked fine but not yet entered into mapping mode let the 3 buttons pressed and nothing let all the buttons and nothing
what could it be?
Brian I was not leaving the tight buttons before connecting the control so it did not get into mapping mode.
the video is running all the test ready after I post another video with the converters installed and organized. thank you
