I’m helping Magnetro get these. I owe Magnetro two working controllers. Once I get him those, he or I can fill you in on how to get your own. It’s pretty expensive and you don’t want to be fighting other people for these. j00 and he already ended up making each other spend about $80 on partially broken controllers just due to miscommunication. :lame: So I’d probably suggest we just conga-line it and get a queue going so that the few controllers available/found can be piped the right way once I get Magnetro the two working sticks.
I find tool combo videos fascinating. I’d love to be able to do 32 hits with Tron’s drill. I can mash 15-18, and know that I could potentially do twice that, and it’s something to aim for each time. And I think that’s it for me: it shows what is ultimately possible, and I can fall short of that without shame and just keep striving to be that much better.
EDIT: The initial suggestion is to dole them out one per region (to be shared until we can get more) as they’re acquired. I think, if we manage to find any more, that they’re going to run about $80.
Movement (crouching, jumping, walking) is frozen during the flash, but the inputs are still registered for special moves.
In a perfectly timed world, that is, the sweep coming out on the first allowable frame, there is a 4 frame window at the end of your freeze where you can get the DP before the sweep hits.
We tested this by finding the first frame the sweep could come out on activation, then trying a 3-frame DP on the next frame. That didn’t work, so we put 1 wait frame in there (activate, sweep, 1 frame wait, attempt DP). Then another wait frame. Rinse repeat until until we either DP’d or got swept. Eventually the DP did come out and nail the sweep. After that we tried to see how late we could DP, and found out it was only another frame :P.
4 frames is it too - a shoto DP is the only move with invincible start-up frame that can fit in there. A 360 would be awesome but unfortunately for Gief it’d take too long.
This was back March 2003, and I know I made a post on SRK with all the exact frame details, but I can’t seem to find it.
This all came about after seeing some SFA2 matches where sometimes the opponent would get DP off. Obviously any later the sweep comes out is a +frame to the DP’er, time the sweep a little late and you eventually have a real-world DP window before getting knocked down.
While mame was all hacked-up we did some tests on how fast we could get physically get a DP out (using American sticks). The fastest was 8, with our average “fast” DP’s being 11 frames.
I’m not sure i understand. Are you saying that you have 4 frames to do the entire DP input, or are there 4 different frames where the DP can be started and still avoid the perfectly timed sweep?
Also, how much frame advance does CC activation give you? Is there anything you can do that will be a guaranteed hit on standing opponents? Maybe c.HK has too much startup but c.LK is fast enough.
4 frames to do the entire input with a perfectly timed sweep.
I dunno the full CC data, sorry. I know we had all the startup, immobility, and immunity frames written down, but I can’t find them.
C.short hm, dunno. It makes sense that it would, but I’d be surprised if I didn’t try it. Maybe I’ll get the whole setup set up again sometime and try it.
Hrm…I just tested it more thoroughly, and here’s what I found:
-The defender has 11 frames of “helplessness” where he can’t do anything. The 11th frame after the screen lightens up is the first frame a move can come out. Commands can be input before the 11th frame, but the move won’t come out until the 11th frame.
-The attacker can land a cr.RH within 7 frames after the screen lightens up.
So I’m a little confused how you guys came up with the result that Valle CCs can be reversal DP’ed, because it looks to me like they can’t be.
I am also curious about blocking, let alone DP’ing the sweep. In other words, how many frames does the CC’er get to perform a Crouch Roundhouse with, say, Ryu and still the opponent cannot block? Does the DP code get accepted during a period of time that Blocking is NOT accepted? Does blocking just take more frames to start up (due to crouching and such) than the instantly invincible DP? Is that what it amounts to?
Four frames. The cr.RH takes 7 frames to hit, but the defender is helpless for 11 frames. Though the defender can do moves (or stand block) on the 11th frame, if he was standing, he can’t actually duck block until the 12th frame because it takes one frame to go from standing to ducking.
Yes. You can do commands during your helpless frames, and the move will come out automatically on the 11th frame.
Well, it’s only a difference of one frame, but yes.
Well I spent some time with Kawaks and I was unable to reproduce it. The sweep beats the DP. I dunno if it was MAME, Normal vs. Turbo 2, or programming error, but I totally remember the sweep needing a couple more frames to come out.
Anyhow I wrote something that will generate Kawaks recorded-input files from a file of given inputs. You write out a list of what you want to happen on a per-frame basis then play it back through Kawaks. It’s better than the MAME setup since Kawaks includes the saved-state in the replayed inputs. So you can setup the characters, save-state, then run the commands from that point.
Actually i was having a lot of trouble with the Kawaks frame advance feature. I would pause the game, hold down an attack button, and push Shift+Spacebar to go forward one frame. It would take like four frames before the attack started to animate. Anyone have any idea why this is happening? Is there a way around it? I’m really trying to figure out how to use these macro and frame advance features. Between this weird “lag” thing and the ST macro inconsistency problem i described on the last page, it’s pretty frustrating/useless.
Yen to dollar is about 100 to 1, and the average surcharge I get from the importers I’ve dealt with is about $30 on top of the cost. So a 5000Y controller will run about ~8000Y (~$80) at the end of the day.
If people want these things and don’t have any other acquisition routes, let me know, as I’ve got a good working relationship with a very reliable importer.
EDIT: Kamui wants the Hori PS Command stick, so I’ll try to get that. Anybody want the other two sticks?
Preppy, I’ve been actively looking for a Hori PS Command stick for like, ever. I would be most greatful if you could help me procure one of these delightful sticks.
It seems like there are maybe half a dozen people who want these things and we’re all friends. It doesn’t make sense to start outbidding each other every time one shows up because that’s just gonna jack up the price. Personally, i have a couple of ideas in mind for combos that would use programmable controllers but i have no time to work on videos until like … summer 2007. Hella far away. As long as i get the things before end of 2006, meeshun camprete! So i don’t know about you guys, but i’m down to let Kamui can get this one for a low price without getting all grabby about it.
^-- FWIW, nobody but a Japanese local is going to be able to bid on these anyways (you have to have a physical address in Japan to register, you have to have a bank account in Japan to pay, and you have to have a physical address in Japan to take delivery). So there’s not much chance that anybody is going to be able to bid against each other. The only other bidder I’ve seen so far on these is j00.
Suggested plan:
People post/alert each other to relevant auctions
Interested buyers step up with cash (will probably average about $80/stick - please let me know your maximum bid for any stick, since I have to front that cash in full for you) and sign up for that stick. People from regions that don’t have programmable pads in the area get priority in case of conflict.
I’ll handle the Japanese auction, the US buyer will pay me (PayPal is perfect), and we’ll get them delivered to you ASAP (ETA from end of auction is usually about a month)
EDIT: FWIW ==> For What It’s Worth. If someone seriously wants to go to the hassle of trying to counter-bid here, more power to those team-killing bastards. It’s a complete pain in the ass, and my friends in Japan don’t want any part of trying to import stuff. shrug
EDIT2: Magnetro told me to mention that ‘ASCII made a stick version of the program pad + memory cards’. So yeah, the Hori or ASCII stick versions are probably the best programmable options out there.
I don’t know what FWIW means but i don’t think it’s a good idea to assume that nobody else is gonna be able to access those auctions. Obviously SF players are world-renowned for their laziness, but every once in a while they have inexplicable bursts of resourcefulness. Next thing you know, something gets done!! I know it’s rare but i’ve seen it happen. Haha
Um, so can anyone verify if those non-auction ones are legit? Cuz one of those looks like it’s new in the box, and the others have fairly low prices. If those sellers are down to ship it out to here, i’m down to give it a shot. I’m just wondering what happens if it doesn’t work. If these were American stores or American ebay, the seller would be responsible if it arrives broken.
joo says the OPTEC program pad isn’t good… HORI Command stick is a good stick. Also ASCII Stick 3 (???[COLOR=White]?) [FONT=Verdana]is really good. I don’t know about HORI but ASCII stick/pad can use an expansion pack that gives it more actions…That’s probably not as useful for games like 3S/CvS2. Hope that helped in any way.
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Just an update, I’ve found a friend in Japan who is willing to bid on the auction for me. I’m going to give it a shot and hope it works out. I’ll let you all know if it’s reliable or not.
^-- That was amusing. You just cost yourself an extra $50. If you want me to bid for an auction on you, don’t have someone else compete against my (amajin’s) bid. So yeah, you just outbid yourself.
You never really gave me a solid answer if whether or not you were going to do it. You gave me no indiciation that you were going to start bidding.
Furthermore, I posted my message yesterday, well before you placed a bid (I checked the auction before posting, then checked it again late last night, no one had bid yet). That could have been warning enough not to place a bid. I also told the friend NOT to start bidding yet, and they did so anyways.
I didn’t outbid myself, everyone else just cost me $50.
Regardless, I’m not really worried about the price currently. If you’re not hot and bothered by the mess, then I’ll just take it from here. Our communication needs a little work, so let me know what you’re thinking.
The only other bidder I’ve seen so far on these is j00.