Well I would want to use what I have on hand xD. Anyways I can try and see if any friends have some post-its I can steal xD. Plus, I got SFIV CE, a HRAP2 SA, 2 Octo-gates, a 360 TE, and a MC Cthulu so … I’m reallllllly broke now for a while until I can find a place that is hiring in my area >_<. Thus, every little thing I can save on for the next few months until then will count, lol.
That is why I am also trying to find someone with a LS-33 Spring I can buy from as well since I imo $5.50 for shipping a little spring that could simply be put in an envelope w/ a stamp is overkill and thus why I don’t want to order from LizardLick xD.
It doesn’t cost that much to ship it. It over estimates shipping, and they always refund you money owed back. I ordered 2 LS-33 springs from them last month, and after he refunded money, it came out to about a dollar.
Well I got some post-its from a friend and did the mod (minus the spring part) and am loving it so much more now. Ease of movement w/ the octagonal gate + small deadzone & throw = ^__^. Can’t wait to try the spring part out and see how that affects it’s feel to me.
Nice mod. Did you leave the pcb out like that just for the picture, or is it permanently lose in the case like that? If so- was it not possible to fit it back into it’s normal position? I’d like to keep it from being loose like that if possible… even though you can’t see it it would just feel cleaner I guess.
I totally blanked and forgot about how the switches have different assemblies so they would need to be soldered. I have a bunch of quick disconnects from working on my SFII CE cab though, so those should come in handy
For me, I can only use a JLF if it have been given the ultimate
mod treatment. I prefer an octo gate and a stock JLF with an
octo gate = way too much throw. Therefore, adjustments need
to be made to the actuator in terms of thickness. Modding the micro
switches is not crucial IMO but enhances the responsiveness a bit.
I feel adding a LS-33 spring with the stock JLF spring gives you the
perfect tension. For added smoothness I lube my JLF with official
shin-etsu grease every 6 months or so. I also prefer my stick hight
to be a touch taller since I have big hands. Thats the perfect JLF setup
for me. Otherwise go with an LS-32 w/ round gate.:lovin:
If I wanted to do the Cherry switch mod to the JLF on my HRAP2:SA, would I just have to take out the PCB and connectors underneath the turbo switches, remove the wires from the other end of the 5-pin connector and crimp the ends with open barrel terminals (QDs), and just leave the JLF PCB in there with the 5-pin? Is it even easier than that or am I leaving anything out?
I don’t have big hands but I grew up on happ sticks and the jap ones seems way too short for me. I didn’t think it was possible to make the JLF taller since the e-ring doesn’t seem to have multiple notches. How did you do this?
Or better yet, could I just leave everything where it is without messing with the PCB underneath the turbo switches and just cut the wires on the 5-pin connector? That way I could just crimp the ends with QDs and connect them to the new Cherry switches. Would that work?
I tried this after being dissatisfied with this loosey goosey JLF. I put some electric tape around the actuator and cut it very neatly. Put it all back together only to find it had trouble hitting diagonals or sometimes when moving forward it would get stuck in that position. Opened it up and trimmed up some more tape and plugged it in before putting it back together, same thing again so I gave up. It looked like the tape wanted to start slipping off anyways.
Check out this link as a potential solution to increase the bulk of the JLF actuator (shorten the throw & deadzone) without having to use electric tape.
That looks to be more effective but it’s a one size deal if 1 layer doesn’t improve much for you. I’d try it but I’m too lazy to go out and buy some heat shrink :).
From what I read in the heat shrink thread, you can add more than 1 layer to the actuator… the original poster found he like 2 layers on the narrow part of the actuator and 1 on the base. I’m very curious to see how it feels. If you absolutely hate it, you can simply cut it off or get a replacement actuator for $0.95 :wgrin:
For those using electrical tape, I found that the tape “creeps”, kind of peeling away. Not only does that mean you have to keep an eye on it, the peeling away leaves a sticky residue that makes the actuator stick to the gate a little.
I’m trying to wrap masking tape around the entire actuator (long column and thick part that hits the switches). I think it will help.
I think the heat shrink will be the most permanent way, but I need more actuators to arrive before i can do that (don’t want to mess with the one I’m using since it works well).
hello all, i have a JLF with octo plate and a ls-33 spring inside my stock one… is there any better way then using heat shrink or elec tape to make the throw shorter?
I did a semi ultimate mod with just the springs (LS32 and JLF). Me and one of my friends liked it b/c it felt like a happ stick, but another one of my friends absolutely hated it. The only problem I had was that it was harder to dash cancel on reaction when going to the left b/c I hold the bat top like I would hold an actual bat so only my thumb is pushing in that direction.
So I’m back down to one spring right now. How would a person put two JLF springs together? It doesn’t seem like they would go together by placing one inside the other. And would putting them side by side would make the spring uneven?
