Oh, so that’s what the lock switch does? I was wondering why Home wasn’t working, now that makes sense. I thought it locked it so that you couldn’t accidentally hit turbos or swap the lever from DP to LS. I put wired home to Select anyway since he doesn’t use Select. I explained why I wired the switch up, because I didn’t know PS4 mode worked on PS3, otherwise I’d have left the switches unmodified.
Security chip was working fine prior to the pad hack. I didn’t have my iron anywhere near any of the chips, and only touched the contacts and once, my thumb, lol. I hope I didn’t bust it somehow.
I would have to agree with Gummo. I’ve performed a pad hack twice with two different Hori FC4 boards and the lockout doesn’t occur in either instance. Sorry to hear about that.
Shit, I wonder how it happened. So, where is the security chip? I wonder if somehow the solder cracked and I can simply add a bit more to flow it again.
May I suggest posting some high-quality photos of the board on both sides? Maybe someone will be able to pick out where some solder reflowing would help.
I don’t have it. I need to know where the chip is, first. If it’s U3 or Q1, then it’s possible my alligator teeth came close to it, but I don’t recall it being enough force or even touching it. If it’s U2, no way, I never went near that one at all. I’ll see if I can get my hands on it again and look at it.
Thanks to @Gummo for this thread! Your contributions on this forum are invaluable, my friend.
I’m curious as to what’s going on with the PS3/PS4 switch. I noticed that the PS4 mode works fine on PS3, although I didn’t test for any eventual time-out. Is it possible that there’s actually no need for the switching, and the board can just be left in PS4 mode? That would circumvent the need to wire up an external switch for the FC4 PCB (which I’m not sure how to do, anyhow) or a second PS3 PCB.
Agreed. After finding out there was no need to switch to PS3 mode I was quite disappointed that I went through the trouble to wire up an external switch. I could have let it be and got the job done way faster. I wonder if PS3 mode makes it so that for 60 gb PS3s or any models with BC would be able to play PS2 games? I doubt PS4 controllers would work in that mode, but if the console sees it as a PS3 controller, it probably would. If that is the case then the need for the switch is absolutely worthless since most PS3 consoles today are not BC and people are not holding tournaments for PS2 versions of games.
Ah, I don’t remember if I tested the Home button or not. Oh well. I suppose if it was the only controller a person had then not having home would be a problem for exiting the game.
Hi guys, thank you for this thread, it helped me a lot, I successfully padhacked two FC4, I live in SudAmerica I bought two pads from play-asia_dot_com. I have two Fightstick PRO (SFxT) PS3 and XBOX360 versions, both now support PS3/PS4, I’m a Guilty Gear Xrd fan
Regarding to the Guide/Home button, I want to try something but not sure if it will work, I need your thoughts:
Turbo Button in the Fightstick PRO as my HOME buton(FC4 PCB)
(I guess in the 2nd PCB in the XBOX360 ver (top PCB) needs a power/ground from USB right? Same for PS3(unique PCB)
Lock Switch for the PS3/PS4 switch (FC4 PCB)
Right now I’m using the SELECT/BACK button for this, I will use SHARE option from other DS4 pad.
Why the 3rd party PS4 controllers have a PS3 mode?
But seriously PS4 controllers (in PS4) mode only have Basic functionality.
No Home/ PS button
No Motion/Six Axis controls
No “Analog” support for shoulder buttons (although LS and RS analog thumb sticks still works)
No Analog ON/OFF button as there no Context menu
No Rumble/ Force Feedback (for controllers that has it)
No Backwards compatibility on PS1 & PS2 titles on Compatible PS3s and PSN titles
No Power On/Wake Feature
Must use the USB cable for PS3 use (no wireless support)
For fight sticks, most of these features won’t work or are unnecessary except for the use of the home button when the unit is already on. So, for most users, the loss of the home button is inconsequential.
Was for everyone else not in the know who may be passing through the thread, not directed at you personally. It was also mentioned on page 1, so it was probably unnecessary.
Isnt the home button on ps3 kind of important at tournaments when you need to select your controller so that the system will recognize your stick after plugging in after someone else? Thats really the only reason I see for the home button.
That’s the only use for it in tournament play. If your opponent can use home though they can manipulate their number to shift them around so you can be first or second.
For the PS4. I though you still need a home button on the PS4 console to sync your controller to the console or the console will refuse to use the controller?
You also might need it for PS1/PS2 PSN titles unless you want to keep a Dual Shock 3 handy.
I was referring to just needing to use home on ps3 for tournaments, but you are correct that you need to use home on the ps4 in order to sync your controller.
I’m having some troubles with a FC4 I modded into a TE2. Everything seems to be wired correctly. I currently don’t have a PS4 to test on, but everything short of two buttons works in OS X and on a PS3. The problem I’m having is that K3 (R2) is reporting as Right Analog Y+ (and then reporting as Y- when it is released), and P4 (L1) is Right X+ and X-.
I have no idea how that is possible giving the FC4 doesn’t have analog sticks. I used the back side of the board to add wires for the buttons, and the switches on the FC4 are set to PS4 (left), DS (left), and R1-L1/R2-L2. Is there something obvious that I’m missing here? I’ll snap some pictures if it’ll help, but I’ve hot glued all of the connections so they don’t rip the traces off. Appreciate any help that you can give.
Edit: Don’t know why I didn’t test this, but I flipped the FC4 over to PS3 mode and everything works as expected. I guess OS X doesn’t understand the PS4 side of things maybe? still weird.